Proper way to jack up Intrigue?

[sparcx]

I just want to jack up one wheel at a time and inspect the brake system. Any idea from the pros on what the safest way to jack up an intrigue is?

The reason i ask is because i started jacking up from one pinch weld and it seems to be bending a lot. I'd like to leave those intact for emergency purposes.

i've got a 2 ton jack from walmart and some 3 ton jack stands from harbor freight.

I'm attaching pictures of the condition of everything (labeled by filename) ...

[dizzle1]

Listen just use the jack on the center of the front subframe by the radiator, kick down the ebrake and put the stands under the front subframe/cradle of the engine right and left keep the jack there if you like also but not under load. Then do whats up front then put it down and go to the back you may need bigger jack to lift the rear from the center subframe also and put the stands close to the jack. The rockers are not friendly to jacks or stands so don't use that or on any other sheetmetal.

[dizzle1]

I hope you are not showing me where you are jacking it from in those pictures because thats wrong

[LittleHoov]

I cant say I care for the jackstands on the pinch welds approach, they arent that hard to fold over...which could be just enough movement to cause some problems for you.

I usually try to put a jack somewhere on the boxed "frame" part of the car..which is much easier in the front than it is the back because it sweeps upward.

On the front I usually put the jack somewhere near where the control arm attaches to the frame and then put the jackstand in one of the holes on the subframe near the engine.

[Tobey]

Heh, yeah those factory jack points are about as tough as an aluminum can... If I have to use them, I'll put a block of wood (with a slot cut in it, so it fits over the pinch weld) on top of the jack to distribute the weight better.

[LittleHoov]

Yeah that would work, and the factory jack works well for the welds also, as thats what it was designed for. It has the small slot for them to fit into and they cant really flex much once theyre inside.

If you want to use the factory jack, an impact with the appropriate socket works well to raise and lower the car but I dont necessarily recommend that.

[sparcx]

Alrighty... i think i got the front sorted out alright for jack placement

i had a spare rim and threw that under the lower control arm. (hope that's ok as backup for the jack stand)

[sparcx]

still not sure about the rear since my jack doesn't reach too high... i'm thinking the following pic behind the rear wheel for the driver side.

Not sure what i'm going to do for the passenger side since the muffler is in the way. I guess maybe that slotted wood idea on the pinch weld might work.

btw... thanks again for all the help

[krivasauto]

No warranties:







Lol. Just noticed I need a new subframe bushing.

[rhaigh08]

Krivisauto: I wish the underbody of both of my Intrigues looked that good. Mine are rusty no thanks to salty wisconsin roads, I prefer areas that use sand. But then you sand blast the paint mostly on the lower doors.

[sparcx]

Originally Posted by Tobey

Heh, yeah those factory jack points are about as tough as an aluminum can... If I have to use them, I'll put a block of wood (with a slot cut in it, so it fits over the pinch weld) on top of the jack to distribute the weight better.

for the rear pinch welds i went with a variation of this using a hockey puck. Mounted the puck to some wood using two drywall screws. Then ran it through the table saw a few times making a 1/3 inch channel about half way down the hockey puck.

Seems to hold up alright for the rear pinch welds so far. (Obviously i'm using it very very briefly until i get the jack stand situated)

[pfofit]

sparcx

You have a cracked sway bar. Circled in attachment. The stupid tube is hollow, squished at the ends and welded on the outside perimeter. Water, etc gets in around the link mounting hole where it isn't welded and rusts from the inside out.

Anyway, it will make the car drive squirrelly, lots of over steer, sensitive at high way speeds.

[sparcx]

thanks... nice catch pfofit!

i inspected the rear sway bar last night but hadn't taken too close of a look on the front one yet. hopefully it lasts a few more weeks till i can get it taken care of.

i attached a better picture just for the heck of it.

[LittleHoov]

Yup, my sway bar cracked just like that, same side even. I drove with it for quite a while before I ever noticed it, but it cant be good for your handling.

Just be careful installing that larger swaybar, you might catch the mod bug, then youll be after brakes, and who knows what else.

[krivasauto]

Originally Posted by LittleHoov

I drove with it for quite a while before I ever noticed it, but it cant be good for your handling.

Interesting question. Not sure it's that cut and dried.

As long as the upper section of the end remains attached to the bar and the rest of the system is intact, I think all it would introduce is a slight amount of slop and mostly noise. Think of it as a thinner end on that side with a loose, hard bushing underneath it.