How to bleed the abs pump?

[MRDANGERUS]

I have removed the ABS pump for clean up and replaced brake lines, which rusted out. Now, I am putting everything together.
What is the procedure to prime/bleed the ABS pump/valve body without taking it to the Stealer (ooops! I meant Dealer)?
Thanx for any info/suggestions

[Airjer_]

What year?

[MRDANGERUS]

Originally Posted by airjer_

what year?

1992/93

[Jrs3800]

You need to find a blank road and get the ABS to kick in... This should work if your ABS light is not on...

Normally the air will bleed out of the system on its own as far as the pump is concerned...

What part of the brake system did you replace? Or did you run out of brake fluid?

[MRDANGERUS]

Originally Posted by Jrs3800

You need to find a blank road and get the ABS to kick in... This should work if your ABS light is not on...

Normally the air will bleed out of the system on its own as far as the pump is concerned...

What part of the brake system did you replace? Or did you run out of brake fluid?

I replaced 4 brake lines which rusted at the spots where the plastic dividers "organize" them together.
Couple years ago I had a fuel line failure on my 1980 Eldorado. I replaced it with soft copper tube and used pree fittings.
Back to Bonneville:
Having lines out, I drained and cleaned the pump filter, reservoir,etc,etc. Can not believe how much dark brown soupy crap I drained from the filter and the hose leading to it. Next week I'll hook up everything together and fill the system up.

P.S. All Bonneys have rr window leaking into the trunk. Check yours. When you pull the trunk insulator at the rr fenderwell
you may notice drip signs or even rust on top pf the rr wheel well. If not-you are lucky.
Check every Bonney in the hood- I becha, they all have rusty rr quarters (dog leg) at the bottom.
All the Best
Kia Ora

[doctorhrdware]

Originally Posted by Jrs3800

You need to find a blank road and get the ABS to kick in... This should work if your ABS light is not on...

Normally the air will bleed out of the system on its own as far as the pump is concerned...

What part of the brake system did you replace? Or did you run out of brake fluid?

That is not the proper to procedure to bleed the brakes and or the ABS pump. How is the air that is the brake system going just bleed out of a sealed system. It is totally impossible for any trapped air in a sealed brake system to just dissipate.

First you need to bleed the brakes first. I usually start at the rear passenger side then move to the driver side rear. Then the front passenger side, moving to the front drivers side. Then bleed the ABS modulator/master cylinder. There are 2 bleeder screws a rear and a front. You start with the rear bleeder screw open the valve 1/2 to 3/4 turns and have an assistance pump the brakes until the brake fluid begins to flow, then close the bleeder screw. Repeat as necessary. Then move to the front bleeder screw and follow the same procedure for the front bleeder screw. This is the proper procedure from the Haynes manual.

[maxwedge]

If this does not work the system must be bled using a scan tool to activate the abs solenoids.

[Jrs3800]

Originally Posted by doctorhrdware

That is not the proper to procedure to bleed the brakes and or the ABS pump. How is the air that is the brake system going just bleed out of a sealed system. It is totally impossible for any trapped air in a sealed brake system to just dissipate.

First you need to bleed the brakes first. I usually start at the rear passenger side then move to the driver side rear. Then the front passenger side, moving to the front drivers side. Then bleed the ABS modulator/master cylinder. There are 2 bleeder screws a rear and a front. You start with the rear bleeder screw open the valve 1/2 to 3/4 turns and have an assistance pump the brakes until the brake fluid begins to flow, then close the bleeder screw. Repeat as necessary. Then move to the front bleeder screw and follow the same procedure for the front bleeder screw. This is the proper procedure from the Haynes manual.

Nice... Have you ever replaced an ABS pump on a 91-95 C body or 92-95 H body? Now I will assume( maybe I shouldn't ) that he is going to bleed the system in the proper manner i.e. the wheels and the master cylinder and at the ABS pump being that he replaced the lines... On the C and H bodies through 95 the ABS pump has its own reservoir, and the master cylinder has a line that goes to the res for the ABS pump, the chances of having any air left in the ABS pump is very slim as the air bubbles in the pump will bleed up into the master cylinder.. Once the system is bled to a good degree and the brakes feel firm you can kick the ABS system to make sure the pump is bled... The only other way to do this is to get a Tech 2 and cycle the ABS pump...

BTW, every Haynes manual I have ever read was junk and was very general and did not really cover the models it represented... I have had much better luck with the FSM and Mitchells... Another example is comparing a Haynes Trans rebuild manual to an ATSG... Just can't compare...


Maxwedge I do agree, if this does not work he will have to go to the stealership to have the ABS system cycled with a Tech 2

[doctorhrdware]

Originally Posted by maxwedge

If this does not work the system must be bled using a scan tool to activate the abs solenoids.

Yes I do know that, but since he only removed the brake lines at the master cylinder/abs pump he may not need to have to use the the tech 2 to bleed the brakes. That is why I did not suggest that, but it may need to do that. He will have to check the brakes after he bleeds the brakes.

Originally Posted by Jrs3800

Nice... Have you ever replaced an ABS pump on a 91-95 C body or 92-95 H body? Now I will assume( maybe I shouldn't ) that he is going to bleed the system in the proper manner i.e. the wheels and the master cylinder and at the ABS pump being that he replaced the lines... On the C and H bodies through 95 the ABS pump has its own reservoir, and the master cylinder has a line that goes to the res for the ABS pump, the chances of having any air left in the ABS pump is very slim as the air bubbles in the pump will bleed up into the master cylinder.. Once the system is bled to a good degree and the brakes feel firm you can kick the ABS system to make sure the pump is bled... The only other way to do this is to get a Tech 2 and cycle the ABS pump...

BTW, every Haynes manual I have ever read was junk and was very general and did not really cover the models it represented... I have had much better luck with the FSM and Mitchells... Another example is comparing a Haynes Trans rebuild manual to an ATSG... Just can't compare...


Maxwedge I do agree, if this does not work he will have to go to the stealership to have the ABS system cycled with a Tech 2

As a matter of fact yes I have and did know about the secondary reservoir for the ASB pump.

[Jrs3800]

Lets ask this question...

what brake lines were replaced?

Lines from the master cylinder to the ABS Pump or from the ABS pump to the wheels?

I have seen them all rust out, especially in a salt state, but more than most the lines to the wheels will go first as they sit further down... Just a little curious and maybe a question I should have asked earlier..