2001 Grand Cherokee 4.7 anti-theft problem

[BlackiceLSC]

we are an auto repair facility.
Jeep GC came in on a hook...over-heated/blown motor.


we swapped in a rebuilt 4.7, and everything went smoothly until it was time to fire it up.

yes, we have the gray key. turned key, no crank. made sure it was in PARK. even tried Neutral...heckk, moved shifter in all positions. No crank.

locked, un-locked alarm.

no crank.

turned key ON, jumped starter, turned right over, and fired right up....let it run for a few minutes, checked fluids, everything was fine.

shut it off.

tried key...no crank.

jumped starter again, and it fires up, and dies. tried again...same thing.

it's acting like it is in ANTI-THEFT mode.

no codes stored at all.

any help would be appreciated.

[dornier34]

Originally Posted by BlackiceLSC

we are an auto repair facility.
Jeep GC came in on a hook...over-heated/blown motor.


we swapped in a rebuilt 4.7, and everything went smoothly until it was time to fire it up.

yes, we have the gray key. turned key, no crank. made sure it was in PARK. even tried Neutral...heckk, moved shifter in all positions. No crank.

locked, un-locked alarm.

no crank.

turned key ON, jumped starter, turned right over, and fired right up....let it run for a few minutes, checked fluids, everything was fine.

shut it off.

tried key...no crank.

jumped starter again, and it fires up, and dies. tried again...same thing.

it's acting like it is in ANTI-THEFT mode.

no codes stored at all.

any help would be appreciated.

Hi there ok here some tips , vehicle theft alarm (VTA) are supported by fallowing remote 1)keeyless entry 2)door lock switch 3)body control module ,4) passenger door module 5) powertrain control module 6) CCD Bus comunicacion VTA can be activate by the rempote keylees entry transmissor or the door lock swtch . deppressing the rike unlock button once will desactivate VTA,unlock the driver door (or alldoor if porgramed),and activate illuminate entry. depressing the lockbutton once will lock all doors , activate the VTA, and extinguish illiminate entry, depressing the panic button signals the body control module (BCM)to inmediatly sound the horn and the flash for two minutes.Turning the driver door lock switch to unlock position will unlock the driver door desactivate the VTA,abd activate the illuminate entry, try to do all this step first let me know good luck

[BlackiceLSC]

thanks. We had already done all of what you listed.
The SKIM code was retrieved from the dealer, but our OBD-II scan tool is unable to flash the code.

there is no power to starter relay

removed and cleaned all grounds

removed starter and bench tested

did a drop-volt test at starter

did a milli-volt test at starter when key in START position.

seems there are other issues beyond anti-theft mode.

ECM/PCM is fine

had it towed to dealer. they spent 1 hour of our money diagnosing what we already told them(took us 12 minutes to find out what they took an hour to learn after we already told them) all because we do not have the $3245 DRB-III scan tool.

and dealerships in America wonder why they have no customers. Perhaps it is because they are useless, ignorant, can't think for themselves, and feel they need to steal from their customers.
Those manufacturers who build firewalls within their vehicle's electrical system should be fined by law. Once a private individual purchases a car, they should not have to succumb to or be subjected to "locked" electrical system controls that only dealership tooling has access to. Those who take their car(s) to dealerships for ANYTHING other than firewalled electronics(reflashes, SKIM codes, PATS scanning/reprogramming, etc) deserve the under-handed senseless over-charged rates they pay to have simple repairs done that any licensed repair facility can perform. Unfortunately, the scan tool we need costs more than this vehicle is worth. Shame this ideology is supported by consumers who continue to let dealerships get away with it.

[xj31]

First of all,I don't think its related to the alarm at all,unless there is an aftermarket alarm.The factory VTSS will allow the engine to crank and start,then it dies after about 2 seconds.So I think you need to look at a wiring diagram and see why you have no power to the starter relay.I would start by checking all fuses,fuse 31 in the junction block would be a good one to check.Also in the pdc under the hood,fuse 8,its one of those big 40 amp fuses.
As far as you bashing the dealership,I work at one.If I get a car that has been "diagnosed" by someone else,I don't take their word for anything.After all,if they were so smart,they would have been able to fix it themselves.

[dornier34]

Originally Posted by xj31

First of all,I don't think its related to the alarm at all,unless there is an aftermarket alarm.The factory VTSS will allow the engine to crank and start,then it dies after about 2 seconds.So I think you need to look at a wiring diagram and see why you have no power to the starter relay.I would start by checking all fuses,fuse 31 in the junction block would be a good one to check.Also in the pdc under the hood,fuse 8,its one of those big 40 amp fuses.
As far as you bashing the dealership,I work at one.If I get a car that has been "diagnosed" by someone else,I don't take their word for anything.After all,if they were so smart,they would have been able to fix it themselves.

if you work for a dealership , tell this people that they need to modify the program and not need an special BS scanner to reset the SKIM code

[IAF928]

Did you ever figure this out?

[rhandwor]

I would use a DVOM and check at solenoid for 12 volt. If no voltage I would check at starter relay check for signal then go to ignition switch I would think this is your problem area and should have been checked before going to extremes.