1995 Town Car (Signature) Check Air Suspension Clearing Code

[usa1qman]

Hey Folks, any help would be appreciated here. Here's what I did followed by my questrion:

1995 Town Car with cracked/leaking air springs. Disabled module (trunk switch, jacked rear end, then supported rear frame structure while supporting axle on my floor jack. Slowly and partially lowered axle, but kept it supported on the jack. As it lowered I could hear the springs leaking! The cracks were at the bottom (axle) end, where it remains folded most of the time. Replaced both sides with re-man'ed air springs (Suncore, $85 each, new Goodyear bladders), replaced all four shocks too. Raised axle to make sure springs seated well on axle, bladders folded properly, then activated compressor to fill. After adeqaute fill, lowered car off jack and jack stands and let the system fill and level completely. It did perfectly, but compressor was loud, CHECK AIR SUSPENSION still illuminated. Replaced compressor (it was very hot when operating) as I figured it was bad, don't know how long bladders were leaking (its my parent's car) and figured it was near dead. New compressor cool and much much quieter. Still see the CHECK AIR SUSPENSION light (disconnected battery, reconnected, toggled switch in trunk a few times). The system seems to function perfectly; ignition on it operates compressor and raises vehicle inch or so (operates for ~10 seconds), shut down and it vents properly (after all closed). Re-cycle ignition, same results. Ride with passengers and it levels, remove passengers after a drive, shut down and close doors and it re-levels by venting. Sits evenly too. So it seems fine, no leaks, proper startup checks. It also holds height spot-on over several days with system de-activated (switch off). 30A fuse OK, relay OK. I don't have the Rontunda suspension code reader so I can't read or re-set the module. My backup pro mechanic does not have the reader either and said I did what he would have (as far as system checks go).. Will this go off after more driving or ignition on/off cycles? Only thing I can think that might still be bad is level sensor but I doubt it based on level adjustments working fine. Any tips or something I missed? I hate seeing the CHECK AIR SUSPENSION light! I have not unplugged any module connections yet, should I try that, unplug, wait, replug?
Thanks for your assistance!
John

[All2kool]

Originally Posted by usa1qman

Hey Folks, any help would be appreciated here. Here's what I did followed by my questrion:

1995 Town Car with cracked/leaking air springs. Disabled module (trunk switch, jacked rear end, then supported rear frame structure while supporting axle on my floor jack. Slowly and partially lowered axle, but kept it supported on the jack. As it lowered I could hear the springs leaking! The cracks were at the bottom (axle) end, where it remains folded most of the time. Replaced both sides with re-man'ed air springs (Suncore, $85 each, new Goodyear bladders), replaced all four shocks too. Raised axle to make sure springs seated well on axle, bladders folded properly, then activated compressor to fill. After adeqaute fill, lowered car off jack and jack stands and let the system fill and level completely. It did perfectly, but compressor was loud, CHECK AIR SUSPENSION still illuminated. Replaced compressor (it was very hot when operating) as I figured it was bad, don't know how long bladders were leaking (its my parent's car) and figured it was near dead. New compressor cool and much much quieter. Still see the CHECK AIR SUSPENSION light (disconnected battery, reconnected, toggled switch in trunk a few times). The system seems to function perfectly; ignition on it operates compressor and raises vehicle inch or so (operates for ~10 seconds), shut down and it vents properly (after all closed). Re-cycle ignition, same results. Ride with passengers and it levels, remove passengers after a drive, shut down and close doors and it re-levels by venting. Sits evenly too. So it seems fine, no leaks, proper startup checks. It also holds height spot-on over several days with system de-activated (switch off). 30A fuse OK, relay OK. I don't have the Rontunda suspension code reader so I can't read or re-set the module. My backup pro mechanic does not have the reader either and said I did what he would have (as far as system checks go).. Will this go off after more driving or ignition on/off cycles? Only thing I can think that might still be bad is level sensor but I doubt it based on level adjustments working fine. Any tips or something I missed? I hate seeing the CHECK AIR SUSPENSION light! I have not unplugged any module connections yet, should I try that, unplug, wait, replug?
Thanks for your assistance!
John

The finest example that advocates for replacement of the ARS with Coil Springs. You could have installed Coil Springs for $80 in 60 minutes and been done with it.

[All2kool]

I don't know that you can 'reset' the Check Air Suspension indicator light. The reason it is on must be determined and fixed in order for it to go off.

[usa1qman]

I'm gonna get the suspension computer scanned at a friend of mine's collision shop. This guy (Earl Gillen) is a wizard and the best color matcher in Western NY (the show car restoring type guy).

Don't think anything is wrong because everything works fine, no leaks, startup and shutdown routines check OK, and it adjusts to level when weight is added / subracted from the rear. Unless for some reason the voltage signal from the level sensor is not what the computer wants to see or the computer itself is malfunctioning. I'll know Thursday next week and post.

If this was my car, I'd put coils in it and be done like you said, but my parents like that cloud nine ride and they often fill the back with passengers for trips. They want it to be stock, so the troubleshooting and $$ goes on!

Originally Posted by All2kool

I don't know that you can 'reset' the Check Air Suspension indicator light. The reason it is on must be determined and fixed in order for it to go off.

[All2kool]

Originally Posted by usa1qman

...but my parents like that cloud nine ride and they often fill the back with passengers for trips.

Yeah.....that doesn't change when you install Coil Springs. Remember, up to and including 1993 you could order your new LTC with factory Coil Springs; which is why this part is available at auto parts stores. If you can't repair your failed ARS for less than $80, you're wasting money by not installing Coil Springs.

I just loaded and delivered to the airport this AM two people (one a 'plus' size) with 4 bags and the ride was as 'soft & airy' as my passengers expected.

[usa1qman]

Ok, you convinced me, now when my brother's 2001 Town Car bags fail I'll just install coil springs! As for the '95, still gonna see what the Rotunda Super Star tells me at my buddie's shop and post it.


I just loaded and delivered to the airport this AM two people (one a 'plus' size) with 4 bags and the ride was as 'soft & airy' as my passengers expected.[/quote]

[donothing123]

I have a 2000 TC, what kit would you recommend. My air suspension just went flat?

[All2kool]

Originally Posted by donothing123

I have a 2000 TC, what kit would you recommend. My air suspension just went flat?

A 'kit' is not required! Buy Coil Springs for a 1993 Lincoln Town Car. See this article:

Converting from Air Ride Suspension

[donothing123]

Thanks for the reply. I am posting from my phone and am unable to open the link until I find a real computer. So '93 TC coil springs are interchangeable with '00? Thanks for your help this makes my day!

[All2kool]

Originally Posted by donothing123

Thanks for the reply. I am posting from my phone and am unable to open the link until I find a real computer. So '93 TC coil springs are interchangeable with '00? Thanks for your help this makes my day!

Yes. The Coil Springs simply replace the Air Springs. No modification needed, simply remove Air Springs and replace with Coil Springs.

[usa1qman]

Make sure you pull the fuse or relay (or both) under the hood for the air suspension if you install coils as the compressor will keep running until it dies (then blows the fuse so I guess its an OK default) every time you start the car. Not sure you will be able to eliminate the Check Air Suspension on anything with OBD 2 or newer - older models you could disconnect the ARS computer module but I believe OBD2 computer systems communicate with the ARS computer. I've read some people unplug the light, or just learn to put up with it.

Good idea to change the rear shocks while you are there, they are tough to get at with the springs in place. Good Luck

[All2kool]

Originally Posted by usa1qman

Make sure you pull the fuse or relay (or both) under the hood for the air suspension if you install coils as the compressor will keep running until it dies (then blows the fuse so I guess its an OK default) every time you start the car. Not sure you will be able to eliminate the Check Air Suspension on anything with OBD 2 or newer - older models you could disconnect the ARS computer module but I believe OBD2 computer systems communicate with the ARS computer. I've read some people unplug the light, or just learn to put up with it.

Good idea to change the rear shocks while you are there, they are tough to get at with the springs in place. Good Luck

This is covered in the DIY; Step #2 and Step #9 of the document. Changing the Shocks is completely unnecessary unless they need it anyway.

Converting to Reliable Coil Springs from Air Ride Suspension

[usa1qman]

Originally Posted by All2kool

This is covered in the DIY; Step #2 and Step #9 of the document. Changing the Shocks is completely unnecessary unless they need it anyway.

Converting to Reliable Coil Springs from Air Ride Suspension

"Completely unnecessary"... it was just a suggestion, they don't dampen like new forever and if your keeping the car for another 5-10 consider it. I'm done here, sticking to my GM sites where its much less like twitter.

[g_ropp]

i myself have a 95 signature that has been converted to both shocks and springs and its the best thing that has ever been done and a money saver those air rides are like 3 grand to replace with labor i suggest doing it it doesnt loose the smooth ride feeling and if they go out again after being replaced which most air rides do anyway its once again a whole lot cheeper to replace and a whole lot faster

[All2kool]

Originally Posted by g_ropp

i myself have a 95 signature that has been converted to both shocks and springs and its the best thing that has ever been done and a money saver those air rides are like 3 grand to replace with labor i suggest doing it it doesnt loose the smooth ride feeling and if they go out again after being replaced which most air rides do anyway its once again a whole lot cheeper to replace and a whole lot faster

Actually, when you had the Air Ride, you had Shocks as well. The Air Springs were in lieu of Coil Springs. So you converted to Coil Springs, not Coil Springs AND Shocks.