Silverado 5.3 larger oil filter?

[someday31]

Was wondering if anyone has used a larger oil filter than the stock one, and if so are there any negatives to doing so? What AC delco part number would fit? The stock one seems very small for the amount of oil in the truck. Would this effect oil pressure at all?

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by someday31

Was wondering if anyone has used a larger oil filter than the stock one, and if so are there any negatives to doing so? What AC delco part number would fit? The stock one seems very small for the amount of oil in the truck. Would this effect oil pressure at all?

I believe 2006 and after , these engines use a very small fork truck bypass oil filter ....bypass pressures are 12-15psi .......must use this type...

the threads on these new engine oil filters have very ODD threads,,,,,not gonna screw on the wrong filter .....


prior to 2006 the oil filter is also limited in what sizes you can get ...I use the purolator pure one , others use wix or napa gold which it is stated a wix ....these are good reasonably priced filters of high quality ...with a larger fiter media total size...

fram filters it is found to have poor quality on media and assembly , some even suffered from engine damage when they came apart ..

what I found was on my 2000 5.3L the oil when using synthetic is so clean , no sludge that the filter in my engine has not too much debris to catch so after 4,ooomi its not restricted...with older engines , dino oil and a carb , these systems do have more debris generated , and that's why these engines do have much larger filters....

[someday31]

I have always stuck with the AC delco pf46 for my 5.3 '03 silverado. I guess I will stick with that...I had thought about using the pf52 because it is twice the length of it.
Do you know what weight front diff fluid to use and how much do I add....till it spills out of the fill plug hole?

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by someday31

I have always stuck with the AC delco pf46 for my 5.3 '03 silverado. I guess I will stick with that...I had thought about using the pf52 because it is twice the length of it.
Do you know what weight front diff fluid to use and how much do I add....till it spills out of the fill plug hole?

the 52 ac filter is for the LT1 engine ...the filter that was used is the 59 which looks exactly like the 52 on the outside but is not the same internally....so do not use a 52 on a 5.3L .....pre 2006 engine ...

the filters like I stated are the ones to use pure one or the wix for the best price and quality ...46 is too small...

the front dif takes 80-90 wt gl5 gear oil ...when cold out, fill to 1/2inch below the fill hole ....when hot out 80 deg plus fill to bottom of the hole ...this oil expands with heat ....make sure the vent tube is clear and has no restrictions as this will cause seals to leak ..

[iroc343]

At the risk of getting flamed, I am going to make the case that I think many folks worry way too much about oil filtration. Don't get me wrong, I long ago stopped using Fram oil filters and have just recently stopped using AC, but with the quality of today's oils, dino or synthetic, and oil changes in the 3,000 to 5,000 mile range, I wonder what all the fuss is about. Unless your running without air filtration in the desert, I don't know what you're finding in the oil filter that's got everyone so worried. The oil turns black because of carbon contamination, not from dirt. I know someone will say that scientifically dirt molecules of less than 10 microns are circulating with the oil ruining the reciprocating assembly, but realistically, these engines are designed to be worn out at 100,000 miles or so, not saying they won't run well beyond that, but you can't get too excited about a parts failure anytime after you exceed the 100,000 milestone in my opinion. I have run many engines past 100,000 miles and never once had a failure contributed to dirty oil. I have rebuilt dozens of engines and once you get beyond 50,000 miles, even with meticulous care regardles of oil brand, any engine will need a bore and hone to bring it back to new condition. As far as I'm concerned, run good oil and a quality oil filter and enjoy the ride.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by iroc343

At the risk of getting flamed, I am going to make the case that I think many folks worry way too much about oil filtration. Don't get me wrong, I long ago stopped using Fram oil filters and have just recently stopped using AC, but with the quality of today's oils, dino or synthetic, and oil changes in the 3,000 to 5,000 mile range, I wonder what all the fuss is about. Unless your running without air filtration in the desert, I don't know what you're finding in the oil filter that's got everyone so worried. The oil turns black because of carbon contamination, not from dirt. I know someone will say that scientifically dirt molecules of less than 10 microns are circulating with the oil ruining the reciprocating assembly, but realistically, these engines are designed to be worn out at 100,000 miles or so, not saying they won't run well beyond that, but you can't get too excited about a parts failure anytime after you exceed the 100,000 milestone in my opinion. I have run many engines past 100,000 miles and never once had a failure contributed to dirty oil. I have rebuilt dozens of engines and once you get beyond 50,000 miles, even with meticulous care regardles of oil brand, any engine will need a bore and hone to bring it back to new condition. As far as I'm concerned, run good oil and a quality oil filter and enjoy the ride.

my 83 gm v8 engine had 380,ooomi on it ...never any repairs ,,,never even removed the valve covers ...dino oil.....changed oil 3,500mi ...never more ...but when I did the changes,,,I allowed 30 min for all the hot engine oil to drain ....used 1/2 qt at that high mileage , and at that time ac made quality filters....back in the 60's your statements on engine life being 100,ooomi are correct....

with this 5.3L I'm at 125,ooomi and use 1/3 qt at the 7500 oil change ...with mobil one ...I know some that do go 15,ooo miles ...

many on these forums reported well over 180,ooomi with no engine problems...filtration is important no way to avoid it ...quality of the parts made today is causing problems .....when the filters are cut open then the story I'm talking about BECOMES CLEAR,,,,

with debris in the oil its basicly a sand blaster ,,,,same with tranny/ diff's the metal gets worn very fast ...

when you compare the 83 engine controls to the engine controls of today the engines should go 300,ooomi ...with a carb engine your not gonna get 380,ooo with no working engine knowledge ....

[someday31]

Does 1 and 3/4 of a bottle of gear oil sound like the right amount of front diff fluid use on a 1500 change?

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by someday31

Does 1 and 3/4 of a bottle of gear oil sound like the right amount of front diff fluid use on a 1500 change?

with two qts you should have enough ...fill to just below the fill hole ..what did the gear oil look like ?

[someday31]

Originally Posted by j cAT

with two qts you should have enough ...fill to just below the fill hole ..what did the gear oil look like ?

The oil looked pretty clean, really not much dirtier than the new stuff I put in. I used lucas 80-90. Its always a pain trying to get in there to refill, not much room for the bottle to squeeze in there. The drain plug did have some black greasy type stuff on it that I cleaned off. I added 1 and 3/4 of a bottle, I really couldnt get in there good to feel the fluid level... I should be ok though with what I added? Next thing to do is the transfer case.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by someday31

The oil looked pretty clean, really not much dirtier than the new stuff I put in. I used lucas 80-90. Its always a pain trying to get in there to refill, not much room for the bottle to squeeze in there. The drain plug did have some black greasy type stuff on it that I cleaned off. I added 1 and 3/4 of a bottle, I really couldnt get in there good to feel the fluid level... I should be ok though with what I added? Next thing to do is the transfer case.

with the color the same or slightly darker than new this is good as the gears are not wearing and the acid level of the fluid is still low which should help protect the seals also...

the drain plug may have had a THREAD SEALANT APPLIED TO IT ..I use a metal wire s/steel bent to enter the fill hole so as to check the level, and on filling the use of a hand pump made for this ///screws on to the oil container to fill ,,no spills only a few dollars..

[someday31]

Originally Posted by j cAT

with the color the same or slightly darker than new this is good as the gears are not wearing and the acid level of the fluid is still low which should help protect the seals also...

the drain plug may have had a THREAD SEALANT APPLIED TO IT ..I use a metal wire s/steel bent to enter the fill hole so as to check the level, and on filling the use of a hand pump made for this ///screws on to the oil container to fill ,,no spills only a few dollars..

Do you have a picture or a link to the pump you are referring to? I have seen those hand pump things that you pour the fluid into, but havent seen one that screws onto a container...would be useful when I do the transfer case fluid. I will recheck the level with a metal wire and see what I get. Thanks.

[someday31]

Originally Posted by j cAT

with the color the same or slightly darker than new this is good as the gears are not wearing and the acid level of the fluid is still low which should help protect the seals also...

the drain plug may have had a THREAD SEALANT APPLIED TO IT ..I use a metal wire s/steel bent to enter the fill hole so as to check the level, and on filling the use of a hand pump made for this ///screws on to the oil container to fill ,,no spills only a few dollars..

Do you have a picture or a link to the pump you are referring to? I have seen those hand pump things that you pour the fluid into, but havent seen one that screws onto a container...would be useful when I do the transfer case fluid. I will recheck the level with a metal wire and see what I get. Thanks.

[someday31]

Originally Posted by j cAT

with the color the same or slightly darker than new this is good as the gears are not wearing and the acid level of the fluid is still low which should help protect the seals also...

the drain plug may have had a THREAD SEALANT APPLIED TO IT ..I use a metal wire s/steel bent to enter the fill hole so as to check the level, and on filling the use of a hand pump made for this ///screws on to the oil container to fill ,,no spills only a few dollars..

Do you have a picture or a link to the pump you are referring to? I have seen those hand pump things that you pour the fluid into, but havent seen one that screws onto a container...would be useful when I do the transfer case fluid. I will recheck the level with a metal wire and see what I get. Thanks.

[someday31]

Originally Posted by j cAT

with the color the same or slightly darker than new this is good as the gears are not wearing and the acid level of the fluid is still low which should help protect the seals also...

the drain plug may have had a THREAD SEALANT APPLIED TO IT ..I use a metal wire s/steel bent to enter the fill hole so as to check the level, and on filling the use of a hand pump made for this ///screws on to the oil container to fill ,,no spills only a few dollars..

Do you have a picture or a link to this pump...?

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by someday31

Do you have a picture or a link to this pump...?

advance auto has one ;
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...43_T%7CGRP2035____

but, all automotive stores carry these ...8.00 at this store ...

with using a longer tube fitted into the pump body you can adjust for different sized containers..