WIP: Tamiya 1/20 Jordan 191

[billypee]

Originally Posted by Captain Mark

How did you manage to remove the light section from the housing section? Aren't they all moulded as one piece... must have been a nightmare?

Quite straight-forward really. Yes, the lens and housing are one moulded item but the lens sanded off very quickly. I primed and sprayed the housing minus the moulded lens so that it was ready to go. All that is left now is to attach it to the rear upright and work out where the wiring routes to.

Thanks to the rest of you guys for the positive comments.

Regards,
Billy P

[billypee]

Hi Guys,

Big(ish) update , but this time without pictures . I have done lots of work since last time I wrote and have learnt things that I thought I should share sooner rather than later. Also, I have a few questions that perhaps some guys on the forum can answer before I make some boobs.

FIDO DIDO
The black hoop on the top of the monocoque has a 7up logo that needed applying. Judging by the Formula Perfect Manual, some races there was no 7up logo, others there was, and for some it was the 7up logo plus the Fido Dido character (FYI: Fido Dido means Forever Young). S27 supplies the 7up and Fido Dido as a single decal, so I guessed you could just cut Fido Dido off. I thought I would leave it on. However, the 7up logo and Fido Dido doesn't really fit on the black hoop properly. So I removed Fido Dido and just about got the 7up logo to fit, although it is a little low on the black hoop for my liking... but the hoop is wider at the bottom and can accommodate the bigger decal. I guess the decal is simply too big. If anyone knows definitively, how Michael's black hoop was decalled for the Spa GP, please shout up.

COCKPIT DECALLING
Looking at the Formula Perfect Manual, there are a number of possible positions in which the FIA, Jordan, electronic shock and "Red E" stickers were applied. Also, the FIA sticker is blue on the Tamiya sheet, Red on the S27 sheet and purple in the Formula Perfect Manual. Again, if anyone knows definitively, where to position these decals and which ones appeared on Michael's ride in Spa '91, please shout up.

F1 RACING
Just so you know, this months F1 Racing magazine has a 4 page article on the Jordan 191. Interesting reading for anyone considering a build. For example, I had no idea that the bulges on the cowling were to accomodate the Ford engine... because the car was originally designed for the smaller Judd engine. Next month, the MP4/2 gets the same treatment.

Looking at the images in the article, I noticed a couple of things for anyone else considering the Schumacher/Spa build.

1) The rear induction scoops for brake-disc ventilation are the taller variety on Michael's car. I hadn't noticed this and it is a bit too late for me to do anything about that now. If I were starting over, I would scratch build the taller ones or take them from another kit.

2) The main photograph on pages 98-99 of De Cesaris looks to be wrongly stated as from Spa... his car has the lower inductions scoops, less elements in the rear wing, a revised oil radiator position and a no Tic-Tac sponsorsip.

3) There are cable stays attached between the rear wing and the cowling. Scratching them should be simple enough, but unless you plan to model this curbside, you are going to need to be creative in your attachment

Kind regards,
Billy P

[davesans]

Hi Billy

I checked a bunch of photos I have of the 191 not one of then have the Fido Dido logo on the top of the monocoque. I am not sure what tracks the photos where taken sorry I couldn't help.

Just so you know, this months F1 Racing magazine has a 4 page article on the Jordan 191

I was looking at January 2007 and don't fine a article on the Jordan 191
Unless we are a month behine here in the US I don't know.

Regards,
Dave

[billypee]

Originally Posted by davesans

I was looking at January 2007 and don't fine a article on the Jordan 191
Unless we are a month behine here in the US I don't know.

Yes, sorry, it is in the February 2007 edition (Kubica/BMW cover). At least you have something to look forward to

Thanks for looking through your images. I am going to leave Fido Dido off the black roll hoop.

Kind regards,
Billy P

[billypee]

Hi guys,

The model is very, very nearly finished now. I'm just waiting for the CF on 4 items to dry properly before I apply the clear and that's it (apart from final assembly and polishing the bodywork).

Here are a couple of photos to keep you interested. The first shows the rear cowling with 4 layers of clear applied (2 coats applied 1 week apart). I will polish out the orange peel to make the cowling completely smooth.



Next up, here is the complete engine and rear suspension. I have added the brake assembly and done some more wiring since the last photo. I attached the rear light today but still have that to wire.



Kind regards,
Bill

[stevenoble]

Looking good Bill.The clear should polish up nicely.

[Captain Mark]

The scratch building on the engine is looking great Bill.

[billypee]

A couple more photos of the progress. First, here are the tyre and wheel assemblies. I am going to add Sakatsu valves sometime this week, but here is what they look like at the moment.



And here is the finished cockpit. I still have weights on the seatbelt to make it conform to the seat so that is conveniently not visible. BTW, the Studio 27 decals also omit the Willans decals for the seatbelts. Rather than use the original decals, I decided to leave the seatbelts undecalled.



Kind regards,
Bill

[stevenoble]

It's all looking good Bill.The cockpit looks really nice with the carbon fibre decal you have applied.Nice texture on the seat as well.You could try the method I read about on here for the seatbelt decals where you apply them then add a small amount of thin liquid cement to one edge.It should spread and seat the decal onto your straps.Apparently it acts as a very strong decal setting solution.It might be worth a try.

[billypee]

Hi Steve,

Thanks for the pointer on that. I remember reading that tip somewhere before (think it might have been Robrex (but don't quote me on that) who originally suggested it). The original decal is quite poorly printed and you wouldn't know it said Willans unless you already knew, if that makes sense. I'll mull over it this week and see how I feel about it next weekend

I used MFH cloth for the seat but left it off the steering wheel (it makes the steering wheel too thick as I discovered on the 312T3). I also applied MFH cloth to the head restraint too. It looks very good and adds more textural diversity -- if that doesn't sound too arty farty.

The seatbelts were coloured with a felt pen from Hobbycraft that is used to write on T shirts... takes a few coats but works very, very well.

Kind regards,
Bill

[davesans]

Hi Billypee
Everything is looking good I like what you did to the engine the detail is nice. The cockpit turned out looking great good job on the C/F. What clear did you spray on to the rear cowl? It came out nice

[billypee]

Originally Posted by davesans

What clear did you spray on to the rear cowl? It came out nice

Hi Dave,

The clear is from Halfords, a national automotive chain-store here in the UK. I used it to cover all the bodywork and all the CF but I haven't cleared over any other parts. If you are using clear for this first time, remember that you can destroy your decals... so make sure they have fully dried, do a couple of mist coats, then a couple of wet. I learnt the hard way on my FW11, and had some melted yellow kevlar decals (SMS).

I have used Tamiya paints in the past (for colour and clear) but I find that the automotive paints perform better and are much better value. Also, the range of colours is much greater, so you don't find yourself being limited to what Tamiya have to offer. For example, the Tyrrell I am building now/next will be painted in Halford's automotive paint because the blues on offer from Tamiya are either too light or too dark.

Hope that helps,
Bill

[Ąɥrton]

Really nice progress pics and details you've got there!

One question, is it the flash playing tricks on the tires picture or did you clearcoated them? They look a tad shiny but I know how pics can be very different to seeing the actual model live.

Either way, awesome build!

[billypee]

Originally Posted by Ayrton

One question, is it the flash playing tricks on the tires picture or did you clearcoated them? They look a tad shiny but I know how pics can be very different to seeing the actual model live.

Hi Ayrton,

The photograph was actually taken without a flash believe it or not . I have been playing around with my camera settings in order to control DOF and try and eliminate the need for a flash.

Yes, the tryes have been clearcoated and, yes, they are a bit too shiny but not quite as shiny as the photograph would have you believe. I always clear-coat over tyre decals in order to prevent them from flaking off.

Unfortunately, I only had a gloss clear coat at the time, hence the shine. I plan to use the tyre stencils in future as they look much more realistic.

Thanks for your kind words,
Bill

P.S. Apologies for not having the correct Ay glyphs but when I preview the post, they turn into ??

[billypee]

Here are some progress pics to keep everyone happy:









For the wheel nuts, I just used the ones that came with the kit. One side are black, one side red. I used a nail file to sand the edges for the black side. On the red side, I just completely removed all the paint from the nut, polished it, then painted it with unthinned Tamiya Clear Red... the results were fantastic.



Just a few decals and a bit of wiring and the Jordan 191 will be complete. The wing mirrors are not yet attached as the cowling will need to go on first... in fact I may leave them just pushed in so that I can remove the cowling in future.

Once everthing is complete, I will post images in the completed projects gallery.

Comments welcome and thanks for looking.

Kind regards,
Bill