Converting the BMW M1 Protour into a Ferrari Daytona 365 GTB/4 LeMans

[CeeElle]

Originally Posted by MPWR

Next time you wind springs, here's the technique I use... Maybe I'll do a how to, but hopefully my description makes sence.

yes please!

after i finished the springs, i thought about winding wire around a bolt with course threads, then winding it back off the bolt. presto! neatly spaced spring!

Originally Posted by klutz_100

I see our trade was very fair - my bad fits for your bad fits

yes. my next project is the academy/minicraft ferrari 250 LM, and the fit on that one appears to be much better.

Originally Posted by Klutz

Looking good CeeElle. Those A-arms etc. on the Italeri kit look just as well molded as the Fujimi Enthu

yeah, i thought so too -- the A-arms are nicely molded, with good detail. the fit's a bit off, but then, so's the guy building it.

Originally Posted by Klutz

that's really cool of someone to donate the brakes and stuff

absolutely. mad props to stryfe101.

Originally Posted by Klutz

As your partner in crime I feel I have the right to say.......do them again!! Don't accept 2nd best on that

i might just do that. of course, no one will ever see them once the kit's assembled. why do we subject ourselves to that -- spending hours on stuff no one will ever see?

[klutz_100]

Well this is all I manged so far over the past 10 days.

I have the seat finished and it was a nightmare. I don't think I could have chosen a more complicated way to paint this thing! Masking...painting...masking....decaling...masking ....re-painting....masking....clear coating...patching up the kelvar decal where the masking pulled it off....re-masking and re-painting where the Microsol stained the paint....grrrr! LOL

For the texture on the seat I used SMS faux-fabric for the first time. Quite impressed and any flays are caused by my heavy handedness and touching it while still wet to see if it wads dry yet – doh! Luckily this is quite easily disguised by stippling with a stiff brush.

Before painting with the Faux Fabric, to maintain a flat, recessed area, I masked out a rectangle with plain paper attached with white glue where I would later apply a self-made Recaro decal (just printed on plain paper). After the FF, the seat was painted with XF Dark Grey.

The seat back was covered with Renaissance Kelvar decal (my first time with using any kind of c/f and I was quite pleased with how easy it in fact was). The Renaissance decal softened beautifully under Microl and still remained very easy to work with and not at all delicate as I have heard. The kelvar was coated with Vallejo gloss acrylic clear (my favorite clears to date)

Heres how it looks.







Next I went to the block head. Reference pictures showed that the coil packs(?) had quite a distinctive entry pont into the block and the kit part did not represent this very well so I decided to detail a bit with some small slices of styrene rod.

Again consistency of size was important and to achieve this easily I made a quick and simple depth jig. First of all I drilled a hole in a pieece of thick styrene the same diameter as the rod. Then I glued a thinner piece of styrene underneath as a backing sheet. After that it was a simple process to place the rod in the hole and cut level with the jig using a p/e saw and get 6 evenly sized pices of rod (we're talking 0,75mm here). The pieces were drilled to accept wire later and glued symetrically (I hope) to the cylinder head.

Here's how it looks










Other than that, I have most of the parts detail painted – liquid masking make this very easy as does my airbrush which is so fine and accurate that sometimes I don't even need to mask. Just about everything was cleared with Vallejo Satin varnish.

Here's where I am at.






My favorite pieces are the distributor



and the steering wheel





I've started looking at the p/e parts and I see some problems/dilemmas on the horizon

See ya!

[godfather23]

Looks very promising... And don´t you worry about the PE. As we all can see, adjusting to complex problems isn´t one of your weak areas. And everything you did up to now is just marvelous modelling - regarding the M1 I know what effort you´re putting into this.

[stryfe101]

Originally Posted by CeeElle

absolutely. mad props to stryfe101.

Hey, i'm just glad I could help, with as much help as i've received from people here and there, It felt good to be able to give back(i still owe some more "giving back"). Oh and your lucky, had the Fujimi tires looked as good as the italeri ones I'd have kept the wheels..lol they do look a good sight better than what was included by fujimi. Great work thus far though, the suspension and brakes look great. Oh and Klutz your stuff is looking good as well, and now i'm going to go look for some tire valves....got some shocks to make! Great tip!!!!

Good luck guys, these builds look great

[CeeElle]

good god, it's bad enough that i'm falling further behind, but you keep raising the bar!

what is this liquid mask (brand name?) and where did you find it?

[klutz_100]

Originally Posted by CeeElle

what is this liquid mask (brand name?) and where did you find it?

I'm using Humbol Maskol



I've been using the same jar for 2 years now. Just clean my paintbrush in crappy thinners

I also have a jar of Mr Hobby "neo" but haven't used it yet so I can't compare.

Life saving stuff for masking just about anything (feels a bit like cheating but... )

[klutz_100]

Before I start to detail up the engine bay and paint the body, I thought it would be a good idea to to test fit the suspension and check out the stance, track etc.

Good job I did because I ran into some big issues that had me really annoyed for a few days and they had nothing to do with Revel

I was actually pretty mad at Renaissance and Scaledesign for a while – unjustifiably I guess, but none the less annoyed.

The Renaissance transkit makes the wheel arches so wide that you can forget about using the original kit wheels, they just disappear inside the arches and you need a telescope to see them in there. To modify them would take a lot of work and Renaissance offer no advice/solution for this in the guide sheet (you can't really call it an instruction sheet).

On the other hand, when I bought the scaleproduction set, they were OOP on the turned aluminum wheels and offered me resin casts instead. The quality of the casts are excellent but the backs of the rims are cast flat which means that if you try to use the kit rotors, the rims stick out too far from the body (even with the wider wheel arches). The alternative is to not add the rotors and then everything sits fine at the back, but at the front they still sit out too far. I wonder if the turned alu wheels are also like this?

The only simple solution I could come up with was to use the Revel wheels at the front with rotors and Scaleproductions wheels sans rotors at the rear. Devil's alternative or what?!!?

The fix I came up with was to use my Dremel to “mill out” the back of the resin wheels to allow the brake rotors to sit inside. To do this I used some dentists' drill bits that I got from a friend and the flexi attachment on my Dremel.

I just freehanded a line in pencil and made a frontal attack on the back of the wheels checking the depth every once in a while. I wasn't too worried about a perfect look as this won't be visible when assembled but actually the dental drills give a very fine and smooth finish!


Here's what I used and a shot of a finished wheel:




This is a comparison of the pre- and post parts:




Here you can see a test fit with the p/e wheel faces and a rotor sitting in its new home:




And this is how the scaleprodcuction.de resin wheels will look using the Revel tires (the scaleprodcuction.de tires are too small IMO and have no mfctr name)




This should be OK now or at least have enough play to allow me to get a good set-up during
final assembly.

Thanks for looking in

Anyone need any dental work? I'm getting better all the time....

[BMWjake]

How did you flare out the tubing on the itb's?, Or can you buy throttle bodies from somewhere?

[klutz_100]

Originally Posted by BMWjake

How did you flare out the tubing on the itb's?, Or can you buy throttle bodies from somewhere?

If you read here, you will find out what I was using and there's a picture of the packet. HTH.

[gionc]

Ste here we say "you done 100, do 101..." or dunno know if you herad the gag of the runaway mad that leap over 99/100 prison's wall and come back...

that for say that semm me strange (oki buddy seem me stupid LOL) what you're doin' (but is due to the fantastic engineering work they done on those crappy piece of resin LOL)

baiddeuuei: mill down from the front side leaving a little pawl around to glue the great PE BBS wires, so you'll see discs under (well not THOSE awful discs LOL) want a scketch?

[klutz_100]

Originally Posted by gionc

or dunno know if you herad the gag of the runaway mad that leap over 99/100 prison's wall and come back...

I know what you mean and of course you are kind of right I LOVE constructive criticism - gimme more!

I thought about what you are saying at the time but TBH it would make more work than I am prepared to put into this (or take more intellect than I have ) to make the necessary work to be able to fit the wheels without having the centre hole in the resin.

Also, I had to mill out the front wheels anyway (with or without the rotors) to make them fit at all.

Don't worry though, I will surely have more stupid solutions for you

[octan]

Nice job Steve .

[gionc]

Originally Posted by klutz_100

...to make the necessary work to be able to fit the wheels without having the centre hole in the resin...

yep less stupid than I guessed LOL

BTW you'll ever glue a cylinder in the PE ass..

I know you love the "disc blind" solution 'cos you loved at death the scangi rims engineering RRROFFFL!

[klutz_100]

Originally Posted by gionc

I know you love the "disc blind" solution 'cos you loved at death the scangi rims engineering RRROFFFL!

- I know, I'm just lazy

[CeeElle]

bollocks. i'm even further behind. it's been crazy at work but i'm off the rest of the week and hope to make some progress on the 365.

the wheels look great, 'ski.