Painting model car bodies! Full instructions! (Yes, you have to use primer!)

[Guiddy]

You sorta answered your own question!
Usually we spray clear over the decals after application. Just be aware the decals can wrinkle or be ruined, so proceed with caution!

[DavidG]

Originally posted by Guiddy
You sorta answered your own question!
Usually we spray clear over the decals after application. Just be aware the decals can wrinkle or be ruined, so proceed with caution!

i wasnt sure cause somewhere in this post some1 mention that if you aply the clear cote after the decals then you'll have some bubles...

oh, and is it better to spray it or aply it with a brush..

i think spray is the easiest

[Guiddy]

Apply it with a brush if you want us to laugh at you and it look crap!
Spray it if you want acceptable results!

[Alien]

You say you use autoglym paint restorer.
I looked on the web for a shop here in te netherlands who sells it.
The only stuff i could find was autoglym paint renovator.
Now the question is : Is it the same stuff ?

[darrenj]

I have had some problems in the past with clearcoating with the airgun. I am unable to get the mixture right and get fine sandy coatings sometimes or extreme amounts of coating at other times, also the clear cot seems to accumilate at the bottom end of the nozzle opening. I am using tamiya acrylic clear coat which I have to mix with water.. Or is buying a spraycan of clearcoat a better investment?
thankyou from Darren
http://www.angelfire.com/de2/darren/brab.html

[Guiddy]

Originally posted by Alien
You say you use autoglym paint restorer.
I looked on the web for a shop here in te netherlands who sells it.
The only stuff i could find was autoglym paint renovator.
Now the question is : Is it the same stuff ?

Yes! Go for it!

[Guiddy]

Originally posted by darrenj
I am using tamiya acrylic clear coat which I have to mix with water..

And there lies your problem! Never use water, it is too thick! Tamiya make a thinner, use that!

[darrenj]

I WISH I KNEW THIS A MONTH AGO

[daggerlee]

Cool, another way to do finishes

I've been using the process described in an issue of Scale Auto Magazine with good results. Several coats of Tamiya Fine Surface Primer, then two mist coats of body color, then one final wet coat of body color. After that, it is sanded with consecutively finer sandpaper, and then polished with plastic polish.

This is what the author got:


Anyway, if you don't have access to cutting compound, you can try this:

http://www.dxmarket.com/micromark/products/82462.html

It comes with directions on getting a smooth finish.

Also, buyer beware: If you are using TS-13 (clear) with any other Tamiya paint, you must either spray the TS-13 IMMEDIATELY AFTER applying the wet coat, or wait AT LEAST a month, as the different curing rates will cause a cracked paint surface.

Finally, if you don't have access to the above, go out and buy some 1500/2000 grit sand paper at your local auto shop, wet-sand your paint surface (it will look quite dull after this! very flat! don't worry!). Then coat it with a clear gloss coat (I use Future Floor Finish, very good stuff! Cheap too.), and you will get a very smooth finish. Just don't sand down to the primer!

Finally finally, nail polishes can be used to achieve some excellent pearl and candy paint finishes! THey are most commonly used to get trick finishes on old school hot rods. Be careful when selecting the color of the primer, as it will heavily influence the brightness of the body color! It can be used quite easily with an airbrush.

Hope this helps!

[DavidG]

i have another Q...

i've read the entire post about times now, and still dunno how to do this..

And this is how I do my black lining!

sorry if i sound stupid but i dont get it....

let me see. you have kinda like a canal in there, and you poor a bit of paint and move it up and down the "cannal"

my Q is how the hell do you remove the black marks left behind, and if you do this before or after you've painted the clear coat???

thanx.

[daggerlee]

my Q is how the hell do you remove the black marks left behind, and if you do this before or after you've painted the clear coat???

Here's a helpful guide from Tamiya on how to do it!

http://www.tamiya.com/english/howto/car1/tip3.htm

Note that it says to use ENAMEL paints. I must stress that you MUST use ENAMEL paints, or you will have a tough time using Tamiya thinner to remove the excess paint! Maybe you can use Guiddy's way and sand it off, but that leaves unsightly sanding marks on the body (and more polishing woes later on!) Do not use ACRLYIC paints! Use OIL paints for the best results, but ENAMEL will also suffice!

Or you can be lazy and buy a panel marker pen.

Hope this helps!

[Jay!]

Originally posted by daggerlee
Or you can be lazy and buy a panel marker pen.

The only way to fly!

[daggerlee]

I've been using the process described in an issue of Scale Auto Magazine with good
results. Several coats of Tamiya Fine Surface Primer, then two mist coats of body color,
then one final wet coat of body color. After that, it is sanded with consecutively finer
sandpaper, and then polished with plastic polish.

So, I got around to scanning the article in full! The pictures are quite large, and I don't want to slow the loading of the page too much! But anyways, here are the links:

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/kaiyao1/scaleautosp1.jpg
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/kaiyao1/scaleautosp2.jpg
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/kaiyao1/scaleautosp3.jpg
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/kaiyao1/scaleautosp4.jpg
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/kaiyao1/scaleautosp5.jpg
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/kaiyao1/scaleautosp6.jpg

[nismo kid]

As the great Murray Walker would say, 'That is a masterpiece of understatement.'

[daggerlee]

As the great Murray Walker would say, 'That is a masterpiece of understatement.'

:finger: :finger: :finger: :finger:

At least you can read the text Bump up your resolution!!