How easy was the P0171/P0174 fix for you?

[pitteach]

To all those who have recently made the fix let us know if you get a PO 401 code for the DPFE sensor. I got the code about a week after the fix and replaced the sensor and all is well. I have heard of others with the same experience. I'm just wondering if it is a given that this has to be changed.

[phil-l]

My DPFE failed about a month after doing the isolator bolt fix.

I don't think they're particularly related - except that the OEM parts fail at about the same time.

I was annoyed, but have had no problems - van runs great - since taking care of both (about a year ago now).

[LeeD383]

I received the 0401 code months before I did this fix. The DPFE was replaced at that time. So, in my case the DPFE failed first.

[knl25]

I am in the middle of this isolator bolt fix and could not seem to unscrew one of the bolts that hold the upper plenum down. The bolt can turn fine but the bottom part where it attaches also turns. Should I drill the whole thing out? This is the bolt nearby the throttle body with the longer stem on top.

I'd appreciate any help!

[phil-l]

Hmmm - this must mean that the threaded metal insert in the lower portion of the upper intake manifold is no longer gripping the plastic.

Sadly, drilling it out will create challenges for reassembly.

Is it possible to somehow stop the insert from turning long enough to get it apart (maybe grip it with needle-nose pliers from underneath)? Once apart, you could probably use epoxy to re-seat the insert (so it won't turn during assembly).

Anyone else with ideas?

[windstar03]

Hello all, new to the forum - what a great resource for information and help!

I did the isolator bolt fix a week ago. It was easy using the leckemby.net procedure (Print it out and keep it handy - I also went through it several times so I know the routine in my head). Throttle cables were no big deal.
I didn't remove the cowling, just had a friend pry GENTLY up about 1 inch. Plenum goes in easier than it comes out.
Cleaned up everything with a toothbrush and carb cleaner. My 2003 with 93K miles had oil all over the seals and dark stained areas where they had been sucking air and dirt.
Didn't have torque wrench so tightened them "by feel" - nicely snug
Took about 3 hours including oil change and beer break. Not bad. Total parts were $95, that's 8 bolts, 6 port seals and upper halves seal - all from Ford dealer - in stock, strangely enough...
Highly recommend this a DIY job, not a big deal. Just don't be in a rush and make sure you have everything you need (metric sockets)
Go back over all your electrical connections and vacuum lines at least twice, it's easy to miss something. And don't forget to put the spring back on the throttle cable thing. I forgot and found it laying on the bench after pulling the van outside.
Now I am just waiting on the DPFE to fail...

Cheers!

[phil-l]

Originally Posted by windstar03

...all from Ford dealer - in stock, strangely enough...

Not strange at all: When I got the isolator bolt project parts from my local Ford dealer, the guy at the counter looked at the parts list, and said he thought one of the part numbers had been updated. He yelled the question to his buddy in the back - who immediately quoted the correct part number back to him *from memory*.

Yeah, they do this all the time...

[rsooy]

I want to thank everyone that has posted about the port gaskets and isolator bolts. I made the changes about 1 month ago. Did everything that was described, and Windstar runs 95% better. Still have a little blurp or hesitation when running at lower RPM's, but it goes away when you accelerate. I replaced the vacuum (u-shaped) line this past weekend. And it did make a difference. But not totally. I don't have a clue how to get the last 5% cleared up. Should I start replacing all vacuum lines one by one. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. I'm almost there, but need further assistance to get 100% performance.

[FormulaLT1]

Great thread with alot of usefull info. I am currently in the middle of doing this fix on a friends 99 Windstar and this was definetly worth a read.

Quick question though, Is this the new style valve cover baffle?. I wasn't planning on ordering a new one as I have heard the mod is pretty easy but when I looked at a few pics of what people where moding it looks exactly like the valve cover that is already in place. Many thanks for any help





If this is the new valve cover I find it odd that someone would change this but leave the isolator bolts which I saw where the original all black.

[road_rascal]

I think it's the newer valve cover- I have a 2001 with the updated valve cover (no 3/16" hole in the silver plate) but I have older isolator bolts (black rubber- new are green). I'm doing the fix in a week or two.

[FormulaLT1]

Yeah, this was a 99 made in dec of 98. So I highly doubt this was the valve cover that came with it from the factory. Also, anyone got a idea of what the upper intake plenium runs frm the dealer. It has a hairline crack on one of the runners that I epoxied and looks fine now but I figure if its under 70 bucks I will just change it anyway.

I of all people should not be hijacking a thread with my own questions but this seems to have nearly all the basis of the run of the mill problems with these codes covered.

[kish-81]

I did the TSB repairs as detailed on the great Leckemby site. Here's my 2 cents from the experience:

1)Total for parts from Ford stealership was $170, for valve cover, 8 isolator bolts, 6 gaskets & U-shaped vacuum line. All were in stock!

2)Total time for me was 5+ hours; at least 1 hour for cleaning intake plenum & cleaning manifold gasket surfaces. I did NOT remove the cowl, but did loosen it somewhat.

3)The isolator bolts were swimming in oil, but I guess this isn't that odd based on the other posts I saw.

4)Now the waiting begins to see if the CEL comes back after a few weeks.

Is it true that this repair through Ford would be approx. $700?

Dave

[autostick]

Originally Posted by kish-81

Is it true that this repair through Ford would be approx. $700? Dave

Maybe. On my 2002 Windstar this repair cost me $50 at the dealership since they did the repair under warranty.
I also replaced the DPFE with the solid plastic version based on the forum feedback. I replaced all six spark plugs with NGK Iridium's. Now the car runs great, like new at 100k.

[bbonifant]

Weird...I did the fix just after Thanksgiving and no CEL for about a week. Then it came back on and it ran a little rough like when before I did the fix. I did not have time to get the codes read again, but about another week later, the light went off and it ran smooth again. Can anyone explain this? My theory is that maybe a piece of debris was in the egr port and clogged it then worked itself out? I dunno...

Also, I need to replace the brake pressure switch to fix my cruise control. Anyone know the Ford part number for this fix?

Thanks,
Brian

[Freakzilla69]

Originally Posted by bbonifant

Also, I need to replace the brake pressure switch to fix my cruise control. Anyone know the Ford part number for this fix?

Thanks,
Brian

I asked about this part at my local ford dealership and they told me they did not sell the switch by itself, you have to by the whole reservoir.

If you find it somewhere please let us know.