Looking for educated advice.

[boosted331]

Originally Posted by 351wStang

So I dont need a crank with a longer snout or anything for an 8 rib pulley? I've already trashed my stock rods. Any pros/cons to Mahle pistons? And how much compression do you think I should run with 10-12 psi boosted?

AFAIK you don't need a longer snout or anything to run an 8-rib crank pulley, it just bolts to the front of the crank like any other pulley. Your best bet would be to call Vortech directly. A set of eagles with upgraded bolts is going to run just under 600 bucks, vs. a set of football rods for 50 bucks and some ARP's for 100. I've never ran mahle pistons, nor do I know anyone who's run mahle pistons, so I can't say anything about them. I would run anywhere from 8:1 to 9:1 for 10-12 pounds of boost, that's what you see most aftermarket pistons working out to.

[torque07]

are 1995 5.0 mustangs fast

[SkylineUSA]

I would go 373, so you can go with a little taller tire for more side wall flex.

How did you ruin a set of stock rods? I was going to use stock ones for mine, but I just don't know?

Not sure if I mentioned this, but I run 9.5:1 and 14lbs of boost, with 1* of takeout at a base of 12* adv on 94oct.

[351wStang]

Originally Posted by SkylineUSA

I would go 373, so you can go with a little taller tire for more side wall flex.

How did you ruin a set of stock rods? I was going to use stock ones for mine, but I just don't know?

Not sure if I mentioned this, but I run 9.5:1 and 14lbs of boost, with 1* of takeout at a base of 12* adv on 94oct.

Planning on running a 28" tall tire.

Ruined my stock rods with a hammer and a punch when I was removing them because I didnt think they would hold up.

What do you mean 1* of takeout at a base of 12*? I know we are talking timing, and I'm assuming that with a 12* base you mean you are 12* adv at idle. So with 1* of takeout would that just be 11*? This part has always confused me.

Did you mean 8.5:1? I thought thats what you said earlier.

[SkylineUSA]

Yes, at idle my car runs 12 adv. I have one of those MSD/VORTECH ingnition/boost controller units. It takes out as much as 3* of timing for every 1 psi. So, you can have 30* taken out at 10psi. Remember your base timing does not stay at 12*, the distributor or ECU will adavnce it, right. This make sure you don't detonate.

With a 28" tire, I would go 3.73s, but 3.55s would be pretty good as well. Run the numbers with your tranny, and your projected power band, and your projected trap speed, to see which will best suit your needs.

[351wStang]

Originally Posted by SkylineUSA

Yes, at idle my car runs 12 adv. I have one of those MSD/VORTECH ingnition/boost controller units. It takes out as much as 3* of timing for every 1 psi. So, you can have 30* taken out at 10psi. Remember your base timing does not stay at 12*, the distributor or ECU will adavnce it, right. This make sure you don't detonate.

With a 28" tire, I would go 3.73s, but 3.55s would be pretty good as well. Run the numbers with your tranny, and your projected power band, and your projected trap speed, to see which will best suit your needs.

Thanks again Skyline.

1 question though. Would you mind to go in depth for me about your setup? I took a half day off work to try to get everything figured out and parts ordered and I'm getting nowhere. I called vortech who doesnt do anything with carb'd sbf's. Also I would have to send my blower bracket off to some company in Mich to have them modify it for my 351w. Also Vortech could not tell me if my stock crank would work with their 8 rib pulley or not, they where only able to tell me that I could get a crank and blower pulley for about $250. So my question is, what all do I need to buy? Blower, pulleys, oiling, brackets, fuel pump, what else? I know there is alot but I need to know about the crank situation first, my machine shop is waiting on me to find that out. If you could tell me everything I need and the best place to get it I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks alot man!

Would it be easier to go with a turbo?

[SkylineUSA]

Turbo's are not easier, trust me.

I might have what you need in my garage. Its an 8 rib made for the older supercharger set ups, but it only has 3 bolt holes, Your crank has 4 bolt holes right? Well, if it does, you could just drill it for 4 holes application.

PM me your number, I can give you a call.

[boosted331]

Originally Posted by SkylineUSA

Turbo's are not easier, trust me.

+1! Turbos make a truckload of power, but the exhaust piping and downpipe(s) are a pain in the ass, especially if you arn't that great with the fab skills, or don't have much patience. I agree about the gears, I assumed at first you would be running a typical 26" tall tire, 3.73's would work well with a larger 28" tire. Keep in mind it takes a lot more work to get a 28" tire under there, and you can go 9's on a 26" tall drag radial

[351wStang]

Originally Posted by boosted331

+1! Turbos make a truckload of power, but the exhaust piping and downpipe(s) are a pain in the ass, especially if you arn't that great with the fab skills, or don't have much patience. I agree about the gears, I assumed at first you would be running a typical 26" tall tire, 3.73's would work well with a larger 28" tire. Keep in mind it takes a lot more work to get a 28" tire under there, and you can go 9's on a 26" tall drag radial

I'll look into that, thanks.
I just thought that several people on here had said to go with 28" tires.

So 26" tires and 3.55's maybe?

[stang805]

tremec makes a tko rebuild kit for the t-5 tranny, makes it a lot tougher, and if you're gonna keep the 8.8 rear at least get some c-clip eliminators, i know people have put plenty of power through em, so have i, but you're gonna be fixin it a lot

[boosted331]

Originally Posted by stang805

tremec makes a tko rebuild kit for the t-5 tranny, makes it a lot tougher, and if you're gonna keep the 8.8 rear at least get some c-clip eliminators, i know people have put plenty of power through em, so have i, but you're gonna be fixin it a lot

Tremec doesn't make a "tko rebuild kit", the TKO is an entirely different tranny. TKO's are basically toploaders with an overdrive gear. Even if they did make a "TKO kit" with stronger gears to put in a T5, the weakest part of a T5 is the case. It's thin, it flexes, pushes the gears out of allignment and then everything starts to break.

[351wStang]

Originally Posted by boosted331

Tremec doesn't make a "tko rebuild kit", the TKO is an entirely different tranny. TKO's are basically toploaders with an overdrive gear. Even if they did make a "TKO kit" with stronger gears to put in a T5, the weakest part of a T5 is the case. It's thin, it flexes, pushes the gears out of allignment and then everything starts to break.

I've looked into TKO trannys. What manual trans would you suggest for this build? Would a Centerforce dual friction clutch/pp do the job or would I need something more? Thanks.

[boosted331]

Originally Posted by 351wStang

I've looked into TKO trannys. What manual trans would you suggest for this build? Would a Centerforce dual friction clutch/pp do the job or would I need something more? Thanks.

If you have the money for a TKO, by all means get one. If you need to stick with a T5 for a while that's fine, just take it easy on shifts and launching. The dual friction might work, but I like the Spec Stage 3 personally for that much power.

[SkylineUSA]

I am going TKO 600, in the long run you have money, since it built stronger. At least that is my thinking.

I do not like the 3.xx first gear, the 600 has a 2.84ish, with a .64 5th, that is a very good set up for a tranny, much closer so you stay in the power band from 1st to 4th.

[351wStang]

Just won the auction for a V1 S Trim. Now I just gotta get my block back from the machine shop and start assembling.

Edit: just won the auction for an 8" 8 rib crank pulley as well. Cant wait to use them lol.