Painting model car bodies! Full instructions! (Yes, you have to use primer!)

[Guiddy]

Originally posted by datsun510dude
Ok OK. I painted my integra body with 1 coat of paint, and found some "rough spots" so I took my testors sanding films and went to town on them. SO After i sand the imperfections out I paint it again. 2 coats? then rubbing compound THEN clear or clear then rubbing compound. ( I have this 3M rubbing compound that sats removies fine scratches. This stuff will work right?

Thanks
JOsh

All Ok so far. 2 coats of paint, 3 coats of clear.

Clear, then rubbing!
Sounds like 3M Finesse it? Great stuff, though proabably a little too fine. You may want something a little more coarse first, i.e T-Cut or paint restorer, then go over with the 3M!

[datsun510dude]

It says "3M Rubbing Compound" "safely Removes Fine Scratches" "Clear Coat safe" "Contains no silicone or wax" Its in a 8 oz bottle.

Josh

[Mikke]

Originally posted by turmio
Is Tamiya rubbing comphound -for windows right compound, for making the paint smooth and shine? I read whole thread, but really wasn't sure about this.

Can I find rubbing coumpounds from hardware stores? Or are these compounds some specialproducts, that you have to hunt down with FBI?

Tietonikkari in Helsinki has Tamiya rubbing compound

[nismo kid]

Well you weren't wrong when suggesting t-cut for models! It's amazing! I had a pretty average paint job on my R32 after the laquer went on, and went at it with the t-cut and it's come out like a mirror! (well almost) I definately wouldn't have thought of that myself, so I'm glad I found this site!:flash: :flash: :flash: :flash: :flash:

[Guiddy]

That's what we are here for! Glad we could help!!!

[flyonthewall]

hey guiddy, im asuming your from the uk right? me 2! U mentioned halfords paints and that was the give away, they're great paints though aren't they?? Anyway what is the cutting paste u prefer? i use t-cut but the ressidue it leaves after is tricky to get rid of.

[flyonthewall]

err maybe not then, if i open my eyes i would see u live in austrailia!!! How do u know about Halfords paints then?

[Jay!]

Originally posted by flyonthewall
err maybe not then, if i open my eyes i would see u live in austrailia!!! How do u know about Halfords paints then?

LOL! Guiddy's from England, on holiday in Oz...

[Guiddy]

Originally posted by flyonthewall
hey guiddy, im asuming your from the uk right? me 2! U mentioned halfords paints and that was the give away, they're great paints though aren't they?? Anyway what is the cutting paste u prefer? i use t-cut but the ressidue it leaves after is tricky to get rid of.

Hehehe! Fooled ya!

Yeah, I live in Northampton, as does Steve Gibbins!

Halford's paints are the only way to go, though you pay for them!
Out here in Oz I am having withdrawl symptons as the spray cans are awful!
Halford's cans have high pressure, a good amount and the name of the paint on the CAN on not the lid!!! Why doesn't everyone think of that!!!

As for cutting paste, buy yourself some Autoglym Paint Restorer!
It smells better than T-cut, leaves no residue and is cheaper!!!
Then to get a mirror finish get yourself some 3M Finesse. You will need to visit a trade paint supplier for it, but the shine will blow you away!
Add some Autoglym Gold badged gloss for the final touch!

[tazdev]

would meguiars scratch X do a similar job to T-cut. It is labeled as a fine scratch and swirl remover.

And would Meguiars gold class clear coat car wax do for the polishing?

the reason I ask is that I have a few trial size packs of these and wonder if they would do the job (and save me some money)

[tazdev]

Originally posted by Guiddy
And this is how I do my black lining!

First clean out the door gaps with the back of a scalpel, carefully!

A very washy Tamiya gloss black is made, and using a thin brush, a large blob of the runny stuff is placed at the middle of a door shut, and immediatley you see it run up and down the door gap! Add more thinners if it stops, further down if you have to, then leave to dry!

You get little marks where the brush was dabbed, and when dry, these are lightly polished of with cutting paste or polish!

This is one of the best bits of information I have got off this forum Cheers Guiddy.

Oh BTW the scratch X seems to do a good job in cutting the paint (smells good too)

[nismo kid]

When applying paint to the body shell is there any way to stop the slight roughness that appears? Or is this supposed to be there? Should I spray enough on to create a smooth shine while it's wet, or should I sand/T-Cut the roughness down? The thing is, if I spray on another coat, it'll just go like it again. After all, it was smooth to start with.

[darrenj]

Hi new member just got in
new comer in the modelling thingy I do love dioramas
what about clear coating before or after decaling
what is the best mixture/combination for applaying clear coat with an airbrush
thankyou
check out something I did http://www.angelfire.com/de2/darren/brab.html
I know know, should have removed the line on the guy's arm..:flash:

[Guiddy]

Originally posted by darrenj

what is the best mixture/combination for applaying clear coat with an airbrush?

50/50 or the consistency of milk! It goes on after decaling, as the lacquer protects the decals.

[DavidG]

would it be better to spray the clear coat before the decals or after the decals...

i've never painted any plastic model before

i think that if i do it after aplying the decals it will protect it from scratches or even coming off....

thanx a lot..

i talking about the CLK-GTR see sig, look how many decals