I wrecked my car

[panozracing]

there are many things we can learn from Frankenstein. Rivets and sheet metal are da-bomb.......learn it, live it...... its a race car...from 50' away and 50mph is all she needs to look good for.

[Panoz Paul]

Just a quick note / opinion ... When I first recieved my car , there was a few small cracks in non-critical / structural areas ... I drilled 1/16th holes to relieve the stress & they quit spreading ... You may want to do the same prior to welding process ... If I was to repair that hold down clasp , I would think a sheet metal gusset on the underside is in order , I did this on my rocker panel ; painted the rivits to match ( white )... Best Wishes / Paul W.

[Wess-RA]

Thanks for all the input guys.

At this point in time I have all the parts in transit. I was hoping to have everything in by next Wednesday. If it works I'll pull an all-nighter if necessary (haven't done one of those since college) then I'll get the car aligned and corner-weighted Thursday and hopefully get on the track on Friday. This would be at Infineon which is the same track where the SCCA will have their regional season opener this year. Therefore it would be nice to make the track day on Friday. Infineon has walls in many very unforgiving places. The track day would be a good way to ease back in before I do my first ever "real racing".

Today I ran into a glitch though, that could blow the plan. I have the yellow Koni shocks. There was a miscommunication between Panoz and me. I had sent one into them to have my front Left shock rebuilt (mine snapped off at the shaft) turns out this shock can't be rebuilt. So now I've lost a week to find that out. It's crunch time. Does anyone have some of the front red shocks that are in good shape, that I could purchase? If not, does anyone know about the black aluminum Koni shocks that some of our cars have. If so, is it a possibility to run the black ones in the front and stay with my red ones in the back. Theoretically they have similar specs. Lastly if that all falls apart, does anyone know what cost the Penske's are going for, and what their benefits are for the undoubtedly higher price?

One more question, their has been a thread where the front upper control arms were discussed. I just received a symmetrical one from Coleman through Panoz. Immediately after his first look, the guy who is going to do my alignment, stated that I should have a 1 1/4 " offset arm. I recently saw a GTS car which had the same symmetrical arms as mine. In his setup however, he didn't have the back mount inboard of the front, as mine is setup. Mine is so far in (presumably to get increased caster) that the jacking screw has no room for the locknut. Since my original one needs to be replaced anyway, this may be a good time to get 2 offset arms. Has anyone done this and would you agree that the suspension articulates more efficiently?

Thanks in advance for your help guys.

[Wess-RA]

So here's a thread that Brandon from Panoz sent me. http://www.automotiveforums.com/t891031-koni_shocks.html

I went back but couldn't find the thread. It has some interesting information, regarding the shocks. My questions still stand though. Does anyone have the sources and pricing for the red Konis if available, black Konis or Penskies?

[eric1h]

Originally Posted by Wess-RA

So here's a thread that Brandon from Panoz sent me. http://www.automotiveforums.com/t891031-koni_shocks.html

I went back but couldn't find the thread. It has some interesting information, regarding the shocks. My questions still stand though. Does anyone have the sources and pricing for the red Konis if available, black Konis or Penskies?

The penskes you can order from penske directly, they are fairly cheap @ $400 you can have them valved just about anyway you want them too

[P_Mac]

Originally Posted by Dawgfan

Does everyone wear a Hans or some other device?

Firs thing I did after buying the car was buy a HANS device, 3-layer fire suit, gloves and shoes. I don't plan on racing, so I'll be using the car mostly for driver-training, but I have kids, and I don't plan on having my epitaph being "at least he died doing what he loved".

Unless by "what he loved", you're referring to a threesome at the age of 94 with two buxom nursing home employees...

[panozracing]

Originally Posted by P_Mac

Unless by "what he loved", you're referring to a threesome at the age of 94 with two buxom nursing home employees...

AMEN!!!!

Eric - did you get a price from PAD? My old price list says the same price $400.

[David Eastman]

Wess,

I keeps my black konis for spares. You are welcome to barrow them untill you get some new ones.

David

[eric1h]

Originally Posted by panozracing

AMEN!!!!

Eric - did you get a price from PAD? My old price list says the same price $400.

No, I wasn't really looking, it was more of a "hey, I wonder how much these cost if i have to replace them" certainly PAD would be the way to go!

[Wess-RA]

Heres some current info:

Koni shock options
yellow steel versions-non-rebuildable, spring threads on a sleeve- Front P/N 30-1695, Rear 30-1696 From Koni-$350 4-5 weeks leadtime
Black aluminum SP8's-rebuildable-same specs as steel versions (can be used interchangeably with the steel ones-obviously slight weight difference) Aluminum body, spring adjustment threads on spring body-From Koni-$350 4-5 weeks leadtime
Koni 3012 Series-rebuildable-spring adjustment threads on spring body-Double adjustable (rebound adjustable on the car, compression-need to remove to adjust) from Koni $550 4-5 weeks leadtime

Penski rebuildable single adjustable (that surprised me I thought they were double adjustable) $495 from Penski, $450 from Panoz

I bought a single used shock from Wire Wheel for $50.


UCA
Panoz only sells symmetrical arms. RA's and GTS's used symmetrical. The womens series cars used the offset arms (I got that info. from Coleman). The offset is 2". Coleman will make them within 1 day for $60.35. My mechanic wanted to start with 1 1/4" offset. We will see which works best.

I bought offset UCA's from Wire Wheel, new for $65. ea. (used ones are $40, although I don't know if he has used offset arms)

David thanks so much for offering; looks like I'm OK though.

BTW I tried the plastic welding. I'm good at soldering but the plastic welding didn't go well. Anyone have experience they can share on this? I know that temp is critical. I have to look up the ABS melting temps-trial and error led to mostly error.

Heres a good link for adhesive repairs htttp://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0204_body/index.html

Also I found this article very interesting for a detailed explanation of suspension setups http://www.smithees-racetech.com.au/ackerman.html

[Wess-RA]

ABS info: http://www.dynalabcorp.com/technical_info_abs.asp

[PanozDuke]

If the GTS's had the symmetric UCA's and are properly aligned (caster) with them being parallel to the frame tube, they must have changed the location of the lower ball joint forward (longer strut rod, more forward strut rod fire wall mount and or more forward LCA mount point) or changed the UCA mount points (moved them closer to the firewall). Anybody know what they did?

Mike

[David Eastman]

Wess,

You may want to check with a local body shop for plastic welding. They do weld bumper covers. Just a thought.

David

[Cobra4B]

Our GTRA has the symmetrical A-arms and we have no issues alligning it.