Koni shocks

Just wanted to provide some info that I found on the Koni shocks that came on the cars. The shocks are custom models that Koni built for Panoz.

From Koni: "The differences between the 30-1695/6 are the lengths (as shown) and the valving (as the rear is firmer in rebound but softer in compression)

30-1695
Max = 444mm
Min = 299mm

30-1696
Max = 494mm
Min = 334mm

The SP8 is a custom built 30 series that is made in our shop that would be just like the shocks you have but in an aluminum body. The 3012 is a different series of shock that add compression adjustability (see www.koniracing.com/rr30.cfm (http://www.koniracing.com/rr30.cfm)). "

My car actually has SP8s on it, which Koni says are likely a prototype they built for Panoz. The SP8 is an aluminum body with the coilover threads built into the body. The shock body is black, as opposed to the "yellows" on most of the cars. Don't know if there is any weight advantage with the aluminum SP8s over the steel yellows. Another advantage of the SP8s are they are rebuildable. Koni says about $130 each for the rebuild with a 6 week turn-around.

The information from Koni that the rear shocks are firmer in rebound has me wondering if full stiff is the optimum setting for these shocks. Is anyone running full stiff on the rears? Are there any ill effects that you noticed? I know the conventional wisdom is that you want the rears stiffer, but it sounds like that may already be built into the custom valving.

One other thing to note is that as we received the car, the rears were set to full soft and the fronts were set to one click from full soft. I have the rears set to full stiff and we'll see how they work at Road Atlanta next month.

I have the same shock you describe. Can you post adjustment instructions please.

Thanks

David

The SP8s adjust the same as the 30 series yellows. There is a button on the face of the shock where the rod goes into the body. Press in the button, then turn the rod to adjust the rebound. There are 4 positions, 3 clicks. Counter-clockwise is softer and clock-wise is firmer. When you are done setting the stiffness, make sure the button pops back out to its regular position. I found that if you compress the shock, it usually pops the button back out. I'll try to post some Koni documents on panozgtra.com this weekend with pictures of the adjustment procedure.

thank you

To summarize: Koni yellows and Koni SP8 blacks have the same performance specs and are unique to GTRA/GTWC cars. I have learned from Gordon at Koni NA that the yellows are discontinued, but they can make and sell tThe SP8 blacks for "about $350/each. Rebuild of the SP8 would be about $150 assuming the main parts of the damper are still in good condition."

Mike

I think the WC cars hand penski shocks.

I got new yellow's from Gary Jones cheap... I may send my old ones back to get rebuilt.

yeah the WC's have the Penske 7500 series

yeah the WC's have the Penske 7500 series

My bad :crying: Thanks for keeping me straight.

Mike