ignition switch

[barpat96]

also i think the torx screws that hold the bottom stering column cover will also fit. I never tried but if you can somehow attach another screw to it you might be able to get it.

Best of luck
--The Shade Tree Wanna Be

[recurve]

Thanks barpat. I tried using screwdrivers but I just couldn't exert enough force. I eventually got them off today by using a needle nosed pliers with a bent tip. Somehow, for me, that allowed me to exert just enough force to get those external torx screws out of there!

Now I'm trying to pull out the other end of the ignition switch that is close to the brake petals. I was able to loosen the bolt that is securing it with a 7mm socket. Now I'm trying to pull that plastic module out. I'm using two hands from both the left and right side but so far haven't been able to remove it.

That's where I am now :-)
thanks everyone,
-- recurve

[recurve]

Phew! I got the ignition switch completely off. I thought I had completely loosened the center bolt… turns out I wasn't close. I turned it many more times and the black plastic module just popped out. I'm now about to hookup the new ignition switch.

Thanks,
-- recurve

[BlazerLT]

Be patient and do it right.

[recurve]

Time for a happy dance



I did it. I really did it! Thanks to everyone's help on this board, I replaced the ignition switch on our '97 Blazer and now it runs great. No problems starting the engine. As far as I can tell, the problem where the dash lights fail to turn on and the fuel pump can't be heard (when the ignition key is turned half way) are now trials and tribulations of the past. It seems to all just work perfectly, every time.

Of course, I might just be lucky today. If things change over the course of the week, I'll let you know; however, I'm pretty sure this fixed the starting and dying problems we've been having.

Oh, and barpat, I did save the old ignition switch but I haven't disassembled it to see if the contacts have carbon build up. I'd like to do it but there are other things I need to get done before winter sets in.

Thanks,
-- recurve

[BlazerLT]

Nice to hear it is fixed.

Amazing how a small switch like that can disable a whole truck.

[Sunliner]

If I may stick my nose in here with a situation...

My '97 Blazer does this neat trick where when I turn the key, the starter "hesitates" like it's not going to crank (as if it's not getting enough juice from the battery). So far, it hasn't failed to rotate the engine recently,but it does make me a little nervous. Thing is it only does this about once every 10 days or so, the rest of the time, she fires right up like she should.
Did replace the ignition switch almost 3 years ago when it failed. The alternator is about 1.5 years old & the battery was replaced just this past August.
I hear the fuel pump "hum" prior to starting-started listening for this after I pulled a dumba** move & ran the tank almost dry on the highway. Don't know what the deal is...


Hey...if I may add...this forum is GREAT, by the way! Wish I had found it a few years back...
-Mike

[BlazerLT]

Sounds like you have a bad starter.

The hum is normal on startup, why do you think it is not? That noise is the fuel pump prining the system.

[cubanlorenzo]

i had the same problem with my blazer a while back. it would go to start and catch a dead spot then start after that. it was my starter. get it done now before you get stranded 100 miles away from your house, speaking from experience. happened to me 5 months ago.

[BlazerLT]

Good advice.

[Sunliner]

I know the pump humming (wasn't that a song?) is normal; just threw that in there to let you know that the pump was working, to aid in the ol' deductive reasoning process.
(not trying to sound like a smarta**, hope it doesn't look that way in print)

I think I'll do the starter like you guys suggested, since I'm in a maintenance frenzy this week, anyway. I guess I kinda thought it was that, but the way my mind works, if something's broken , it won't work at all. I should know by now that automobiles aren't an "all-or-nothing" deal until you're on the highway....

Thanks!
-Mike

[recurve]

Tip about non-OEM starters…

I've been reading Jim Allen's "Chevy and GMC pickup performance handbook." He talks about the "Mean Green" starter, here is the quote:

"This Mean Green starter is six pounds lighter than the stock starter, and because of a 2.5-horsepower motor, ball bearings, and a 4.4:1 gear reduction, it delivers three times the cranking torque. Because it's considerably smaller than the OE-style unit, it fits around headers better. According to MG Industries, this starter will deliver 35,000 starts, compared to the OE 4,500. If you do clutch-out starts on the trail, this could be the starter for you."

Here is the web site:
http://www.mean-green.com/

I replaced the starter in our '97 Blazer about one week before I got this book - darn. This part sounds better than the GM part in every way. Hope this helps.
-- recurve

[Sunliner]

So the Mean Green is a straight bolt-on replacment?

Couldn't get their site to load here at work..does it require any changes to the battery/alternator etc?

if it is as good as advertised, it's worth the money!
-Mike

[someguy000001]

Looks like it's $299.00. Yeouch

[BlazerLT]

Get a rebuild and MAKE SURE that it is installed right and it is engaging the flywheel properly and is very quiet.

If it is noisy, you will have to have it shimmed.

If you don't do this, you will destroy your flywheel.

Trust me, I went through the 1000 repair, you don't want to go there.