93 civic overheating !!!

[swift1069]

my car runs great after bleeding the cooling system.... So for anyone that has the problem if you need instructions on it hit me up....

[Silverbolt]

Originally Posted by swift1069

my car runs great after bleeding the cooling system.... So for anyone that has the problem if you need instructions on it hit me up....

If its not too much trouble... can you post up instructions to help others... that way if someone does a search in the future, your instructions will help them out. Thanks

[swift1069]

It's simple to fix there is a bleeder valve for the cooling system right where the top radiator hose connects to the block. Get the car to operation temp and then take off your radiator cap. Watch out for water spraying out..Make sure to have the heater valve open too. Then fill the radiator and then it should be a 12mm wrench and open the bleeder valve and it will start sucking fluids down make sure to keep it full. then when water comes out of the valve without air close it. Let it run for a few minutes and then open the valve to see if any more air comes out. If not then that should solve your problem

[djstorman]

Allright all, Good news I have fixed the Civic!!

Just a recap. My problem orginally started as a radiator which plastic connect for the tube going to the engine had basically fallen apart. It was losing water which cause the car to overheat multiple times.

My wife replaced the radiator but not before the head gasket blew.

Next I took the head off and had it grinded down to take out the warp. I then proceed to replace the gaskets and put the head back on. Not so easy though as I mistake the torque specifications and break off a valve bolt and a bolt that connects the valve cover to the head. I replace these and put it back. I start it up and it turns over but doesnt start.

I do the timing again and it starts but is very sluggish.

I drive over to my dads to get some "big man " help. Turns out I didnt put it to top dead center I put it to the red mark instead of the white mark. At this point I realize I need to read more closely

Finally tonight after 2 weeks I have finished and it runs like a pearl.

Would like to thank a few people who helped out .

sageuvagony
swift1069
dat1laosguy
fiercecivic

I would finally like to make a speacial thanks to GScivic7

This guys was awesome, he must have spent a good 2 hours talking to me about this problem and offering his knowledge. Thanks very much

[GScivic7]

lol...thanks man, i wish I could have helped out more though. Really glad everything got worked out.

[Silverbolt]

Glad to hear that the members of AF were able to help you out, and that everything is running nice and smooth!

[need_fast_civic]

GSCIVIC7:
You might want to check your water pump.
I have a 93 civic coupe and have blown two hoses within the past month. AFter that, (cahnged them) i saw the coolant, slowly, dripping out of the left side of the engine (from the drivers side), i checked and it was the Water pump. It is attached to the timin so i didn't want to mess with it, but it is almost right next to the alternator (i think), anyhow, the car runs without over heating now. Maybe this can help!
If no, then forgive the post since i am new to the scene i dunno what else i can help you out with, it sounds like the same problem though!

[need_fast_civic]

Ok, i just realized my pst is way to late and addressed to the wrong handle. ha ha, im such a newb

[GScivic7]

lol...there are good funny newbies.

[swift1069]

lol no prob if anyone knows about corvettes let me know I have a problem concerning it too and noone has responded to it yet in the group.. I changed mufflers and the chip.. I runs great but it idles at 1600 and wont drop. I'm not sure if the shop recalibrated the computer for the new chip or not. But I was thinking it could be a sensor too..If you can toss in a thought it may help thanks

[riverat440]

My friend has a 94 Civic with a very similar problem. I ran the engine with the cap off and a thermometer stuck in the radiator and it registered in the 200 degree range and the guage was into the orange bar almost into the letter H on the temp guage and the fan still wasn't on. As the needle started covering the H the fan kicked on. The thermometer was now reading 215 degrees and the coolant was boiling. Replaced both the sensor for the fan and the guage still no difference. It almost seems as though the temp guage isn't reading correctly. I don't quite understand this setup Honda has on this engine with the fan switch on the thermostat housing which is at the lower rad hose. Is this why the different temperature switches are available? The original Honda switch seemed to work fine for so long then it was noticed that the fan wasn't coming on any more. I'm a little cornfused. Anyhow any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Rick

[honda_luvr_2000]

well a thermostat is in the upper radiator hose not the lower. the reason u'r coolant was boiling was because u had the cap off. the whole system operates under pressure, so that's wut keeps it from boiling at the normal "water" boiling point. w/ the cap off it couldn't hold pressure. sounds like the temp gauge is wack, because everything else sounds like it's operating correctly.

[Walker S-10]

when you get the head off check your cylinder walls for cranks, and if it was my car i would get the head plainned seeing that you got it off .

[riverat440]

No doubt the coolant operates under pressure but how else would you check the temperature of the coolant. A thermometer is the easiest. Everyone I talk to says the guages never malfunction. I was hoping I didn't have to change the guage as the bezel seems like a muther to get off without cracking it. Thanks, Rick

[riverat440]

Originally Posted by honda_luvr_2000

well a thermostat is in the upper radiator hose not the lower. the reason u'r coolant was boiling was because u had the cap off. the whole system operates under pressure, so that's wut keeps it from boiling at the normal "water" boiling point. w/ the cap off it couldn't hold pressure. sounds like the temp gauge is wack, because everything else sounds like it's operating correctly.

The thermostat is at the engine side of the lower hose not the upper like normal engines. Changed the sending unit and the guage now the guage reads hot as soon as you start the engine. Time for an aftermarket guage at least I know that will work. If this was my vehicle I think I would take it out back and use it for target practice