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  #31  
Old 12-06-2001, 08:24 PM
GuitarManiac101 GuitarManiac101 is offline
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Yes there is such a thing as a wet turbo kit. I've looked into them and I'm not sure of all the details but you can run NOS with it.
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  #32  
Old 12-06-2001, 10:07 PM
Ktulu Ktulu is offline
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RaicingRice,

Can I put a B18b engine on a 5th gen tranny. Personnaly, would you go with a n/a b16a or a turbowed b18b?
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  #33  
Old 12-07-2001, 12:58 AM
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Re: RaicingRice,

Quote:
Originally posted by Ktulu
Can I put a B18b engine on a 5th gen tranny. Personnaly, would you go with a n/a b16a or a turbowed b18b?

no, you can't put a tranny from a d-series engine on a b16a....I personally like both....I decided to take the hard route and go all motor b16a....i could boost 8lbs, run 12.99 and be done with it...but I decided low 13s all motor would be fun and a bit more interesting...not to mention, I can rub it in the face of people who think the b16a is shit pile for all motor
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  #34  
Old 12-09-2001, 11:22 PM
GuitarManiac101 GuitarManiac101 is offline
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What would you guys recomend doing for a clutch, what stage should I get. I want to get into agressive street racing. Also, what makes the b20 block so good and the b16a crankshaft so good. I'm trying to figure out what different about the different engines. Why are you recomending this paticular combo.
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  #35  
Old 12-09-2001, 11:31 PM
GuitarManiac101 GuitarManiac101 is offline
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One other thing, earlier, coilovers were mentioned. What exactly are they? Would it be cheeper to do that or go with shocks and springs?
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  #36  
Old 12-09-2001, 11:49 PM
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Arrow GM

From what I've seen, generally coilovers usually seem to be more expensive than getting shocks and springs separately. I think either option is good. Click around, I've seen pages right here at AF that advertise Skunk2 coilovers with KYB shocks for $300!!! I am assuming that's the price each, because if they're selling a set of four for $300, that's an absolute steal!!

For the clutch, both ClutchMasters and ACT (Advanced Clutch Technology) make excellent clutches. I'd give CM the nod for the superior product, but you'll also pay.. I'd say generally 30 to 40% more for CM. You'll probably want Stage 1 or Stage 2 set-up (check my signature to see what I have in the way of a clutch - I'm very happy with what I have, by the way).

Now, engines. The reason for recommending the B20 block with the B17A crank (not the B16A crank) is that you get the biggest, most-torque-producing B series block with a crank, that along with the right connecting rods will yield an ideal* 1.75:1 rod:stroke ratio. Basically what rod:stroke determines is the amount of flex your connecting rods will experience in the course of each stroke. There are numerous debates about the importance of rod:stroke (R/S). One of the best Honda engines is, without argument, the B18C1 (Integra GS-R engine), which has a 1.58:1 R/S ratio, and yet it does very well at high rpm and under boost. But, if you can incorporate a better R/S ratio into the design parameters of your engine, it is always a good idea to do so. Rod:stroke ratio is a complicated debate, so let me try and find a link to give you more info on the topic:

http://www.theoldone.com/archive/crv...roke-ratio.htm
http://www.theoldone.com/archive/nit...roke_ratio.htm
http://www.theoldone.com/archive/pis...roke-ratio.htm

These are complicated readings, but I recommend taking a look at them. Do your best with them, and if you have more questions, we'll be here.

* The reason this is highlighted is that there is extensive debate surround whether the ideal rod:stroke ratio is 1.75:1, 2:1, or even 2+:1. It all depends on who you ask. Personally, I'm a believer in 1.75:1.
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  #37  
Old 12-12-2001, 05:30 PM
GuitarManiac101 GuitarManiac101 is offline
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Would you recomend getting an aluminum fly wheel?
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  #38  
Old 12-12-2001, 05:45 PM
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Ehhh... depends on whether you want to spend $300+ to get if you're lucky, I think about 4 horsepower to the wheels. They reduce friction and drivetrain parasitic drag by reducing weight of the componentry involved in routing power from the engine to the wheels. If you're going to go all-out, and don't mind shelling out the money, go for it. But generally speaking, if there are corners you want to cut for your project, this is one the first items I would choose to eliminate.

Oh, and if you do get lightened aluminum flywheel, it's ClutchMasters all the way.
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  #39  
Old 12-13-2001, 05:10 PM
GuitarManiac101 GuitarManiac101 is offline
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What is a turbo timer exactly? Also, if you wanted to increase your top speed or maybe the acceleration in one gear is there a way to switch out gears in your transmission?
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  #40  
Old 12-13-2001, 05:19 PM
Swonder67 Swonder67 is offline
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a turbo timer, depending on what options you get with it, will leave the turbo's going after you've driven and shut off the car so you don't have to sit in the car and wait for the turbos to cool. You can adjust the gear ratios
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  #41  
Old 12-13-2001, 05:58 PM
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hey where can you get those golden eagle sleeves and how much do they run for? (they sound awesome)
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  #42  
Old 12-13-2001, 06:04 PM
GuitarManiac101 GuitarManiac101 is offline
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Dude!! Your not bs'n on that van are you? That's is the coolest in the world. Me and my friend died laughing but that is damn fast. That is so fricken awesome. How much money have you put into it?
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  #43  
Old 12-13-2001, 06:44 PM
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I didn't know the voyager motor could handle 200 shot of nitrous. If that van is for real, it really is the ultimate sleeper.
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  #44  
Old 12-13-2001, 10:34 PM
GuitarManiac101 GuitarManiac101 is offline
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What is a suspension brushing kit and why would you want one?
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  #45  
Old 12-15-2001, 12:13 AM
GuitarManiac101 GuitarManiac101 is offline
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Also, what kind of nitrous shot would you run with a turbo charger?
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