Mitsubishi FTO GS [fujimi]

[axiom]

Originally Posted by KevHw

sanding down with 800 is fine, just re-spray with your primer so that it's all covered. Make sure you re-scribe your panel lines though to stop them filling. Make sure for you final layer you use a very fine sandpaper so that the primer is smooth, ready for the paint.

It was the Mirka grit..but seems to be ok. As for the final layer I have some tamiya 2000 left over and some micromesh (3600-12000). Is tamiya 2000 good for the job?

[kaho]

Originally Posted by axiom

also bought some Tamiya Basic Putty and a Trumpeter side cutter(those special scissors for cutting off parts from sprues...amazing thing)

If it's anything like the tamiya cutter, it sure is indeed amazing! I used to cut with a nail clipper. That kills the clipper itself, leaves a big knob and sometimes cracks into the plastic. The difference was night and day!

Apparently the tamiya compressor only makes around 15psi and doesn't run very long from its battery.

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=74520


If you make the primer finish too smooth the paint will still not adhere well and eventually chip off....Just lightly use 1000 again. I would only use 2000 or your micromesh as a final grit for the clearcoat before compound/wax.

[axiom]

kaho, how much PSI exactly is required? I've looked at one compressor+airbrush option today, but forgot to check the PSI...all I remember it's some Chinese product, but that's the only hobby shop I was able to find.

The cutter - I haven't worked with tamiya, but checked it out as soon as got home - works great. It's much better than cutting off pieces with a hobby knife =)

Ok, so it's light coats of primer -> tamiya 1000 -> first paint layer?

btw, how much primer coats are required?

[kaho]

I guess it depends on how you spray and how thick you want to make the paint. Since I got a big loud (but slow) compressor from Wal mart, and I want to cover large areas per stroke, I have gotten comfortable with 30 to 40 psi. I have adjusted my spraying style to the type of compressor I got, if you get something with lower pressure you could for example spray closer, use thinner paints, and have less overspray flying around.

I only spray primer until the whole body looks uniform in color, even after slightly sanding it. Honestly, I only sand the primer surface occasionally, Gunze Mr. surfacer 1000 gives a surface so smooth that I didn't even bother with sanding.

[axiom]

kaho, ok...I suppose buying an airbrush+compressor isn't the easiest decision =)

Gunze Mr. surfacer 1000 - have no clue where to get it =(

[Wolf95]

hey, sorry, I must have been REALLY tired when I replied to this thread the last time. DONT use 400-600 for the entire body. Just use those for the bad panel lines. use 1000 for the body. lol.

[axiom]

Wolf95, don't worry, I used 800 instead =)

[axiom]

Day 7.

Covered the "indents" on seats with more putty (checked with 1:1 pics).

And made a new shifter, the original one sucks...and I always wanted to make a custom one (had something similar on my s13 vertex).



"Destroyed" the exhaust I figured it'll be easier to sand it & paint this way, as well as to fabricate new exhaust tips (is that what they are called?)



Then I took out my Tamiya drill (btw, it comes unassembled and you have to put it together youself...therefor it took me about a month to get used to the idea of building it ) and did some drilling...first I made some holes in the exhaust thing (I don't know what it's called)..but couldn't stop there and decided to make some more holes so I drilled out the side repeaters and found some silvia s15 clear orange sprues to fabricate new repeaters.
Also decided to drill out the trunk key lock..drilled it out, but mossed by a few mm...and then checked with 1:1 pics...it's totally different. So I had to putty in the hole.


Then I did some spray painting - primered the chassis...hence there will be no extra work on it...and once it dried covered it with TS-29...turned out ok, but I've noticed some thing sticking out near the exhaust... had to remove it. So 1 more TS-29 layer coming up.





Once it all dried - I dry fitted the body & chassis and suspension parts...







Looks OK to me, but WALL-E said that I forgot the wing...

Now does anyone know how to "smoke" the wheels? (to make them more realistic?)

[axiom]

Day 8.

Got the body primered again...looks much better, but some minor imperfections had to be fixed. so now waiting for it to dry & then one more layer of primer.

then got seats sanded down and suspension parts ready for primer.

also made pedals for the interior, as the kit came without any. forgot to make the footrest, but will make it soon.







here's the picture of the exhaust tips fabricated & fitted.



also decided to modify the shocks...this is where I got to at this point:

[Wolf95]

looks good so far

[axiom]

Wolf95, thanks! =)

[axiom]

Well, I'm back...didn't do much lately, just lost inspiration & had no time...blah blah blah...lame excuses

anyways, back to the project.

Day 9.

Finally decided on the color.

Sprayed the base coat TS-29 Semi-gloss black.

[axiom]

Day 10.

Wet coated with TS-38 Gun metal.



Up next is Tamiya Clear & polishing...

comments & suggestions are welcome

[Wolf95]

looks MUCH better finally painted. keep up the good work

[axiom]

Originally Posted by Wolf95

looks MUCH better finally painted. keep up the good work

Thanks! However I did manage to mess up - found some dust stuck to the surface and tried to sand in off with tamiya p1000, p1500, p2000...now I have some "unpolished" looking spots..

Should I clear coat it this way or and another wet layer of gun metal?