got power, but no idiot lights.

[danman47]

hmmm, the one with the wiring harness underneath the dash sounds very tantalizing as it sounds easier to install. The chiltons manual includes tons of extra steps, but what I've got now is 4 - 13mm bolts taken out. 2 from the front underneath the gear selector sortof the column supports, and two right on the lower firewall and the column supported by a jackstand, however I thought to myself since i had it towed to my driveway from the alley way the tow truck driver could not angle it in so we just pushed it as far and the wheels arent straight

So question do i have to straighten out the wheel and then lower the steering column enough to just pop off the ignition switch?

Whats a good way to lower the steering column, right now I see two bolts on the front on a brace, and two bolts at the end of the steering column on a brace looking thing on the firewall

Thanks

[tblake]

You should not have to lower the steering column. But if you must, the is probably 4 nuts and then I usually just rest the column on the drivers seat.

The ignition switch (depending on the type you have as Rich mentioned), usually just have to remove the plastic covers around the steering column. I did one on an old acheiva which might be similar, I just had to remove the column covers, and then there were bolts holding the ignition switch in (torx bolts I believe).

Part was approx 50.00 if I remember right.

[danman47]

Ok sor your right , i do have the steering wheel supported by the drivers seat, i see the rod that runs along the steering column, and i got the bolts off of the ignition switch I can lift it off the column but this rod goes into the switch somehow, and just wanted to clarify the the rod just clips on somehow and alls i have to do is unclip it, you mention that it goes to the wiring harness, but i think it might start from steering wheel, then maybe stop at the ignition switch ??

[tblake]

Ok, so you have the type of switch that I have never worked on. But I have seen a similar type used a lot on ford vehicles but I am sure they are different.

On the ignition switch, there should be a large set of wires going to it, and that rod will come from towards the steering wheel and stop at the switch. I have no idea how it disconnects. Just be carefull not to break anything.

Good Luck.

[danman47]

so the ignition switch is a special order part, will be here on tuesday

coulda got the one from schucks for $140 and it would be here on monday
but instead i got the one from autozone for $66 and it will be here tuesday.

at least i have time to figure how that rod disconnects.

Thanks and i hope this works!

[tblake]

Originally Posted by danman47

Thanks and i hope this works!

Me too, but when you have the new one in and your car starts, please report back to let us know the good news.

[danman47]

Guys, I definitely need your help. Got the new switch, got the wires plugged into the main harness, then my attention turns to mounting it on the steering column.
So the rod that extends from the key cylinder has dielectric grease remaining on the very end of it where the ignition switch goes, but I, for the life of me cannot figure it out as there is sort of a slot with dielectric grease in it and at the end of this slot (which is basically cut into the mounting bracket on the switch) there is a 2mm wide circular pin that actuates up and down, I am presumming by the rod, but I cannot get all the things to align to mount correctly.

which leads me now to my second problem by futzing around with the stupid switch, my steering wheel has now done a 180 and now looks to be realigned. I am going to head to the library tomorrow to see if i can find some diagrams on how to mount the darn switch, I woulda thought the new one would come with instructions.

Any thoughts on how to mount?

[danman47]

[/IMG][/IMG][/IMG]

I hope someone can tell me how the rod is supposed to get into the ignition switch on the bottom there, am i supposed to just bend it?

[tblake]

Images did not make it through for me.

Is the switch in upside down maybe?

Did you compare the old switch to the new one before you put it in?

[danman47]

i have some good pics of my steering column and the slot where i think the rod goes, the replacement switch is the exact same dimensions, and the mounting holes on the steering column line up for me to mount the switch, but the rod doesnt even align anywhere close to the switch, i regret not taking pics before i took off the original switch as I have waited a couple of days for my memory to start deceiving me but I have everything mounted its just the rod, which is the heart and soul of the stupid thing doesnt align up. what is the normal format for posting pics, or can i just email to you? I tried a free image hosting site, and pasted in the url they gave me...I went to the library and got nothing, its like this 1994 is a black hole as far as that goes...

[danman47]

The actuating rod in the first pic is cocked to the right while the ignition switch is kinda up at an angle in this pic that is how it is mounted, Im kicking myself for not truly paying attention to the old one and how it was installed.

[danman47]

OK so found out how the ignition switch installs to the actuating rod. BUT still no change, still have no crank, and no turnover. No lights on the dash. I will check voltages later on, but any ideas, as the new ignition switch doesnt turn the car over?

[tblake]

Didn't it crank with the old switch? Check for voltage on the main red wires (which you had before, correct?) When you swapped the switch over, did you disconnect the battery? Go up front near the starter and make sure the fusable links weren't melted on accident (happened to me before because my dumbass didn't disconnect the battery).

[danman47]

It never cranked with the old ignition switch. I spent yesterday putting in a new crankshaft position sensor, as a friend said that he experienced same symptoms, but my condition hasnt changed.

I just got the wiring diagrams from the publis library website, and it looks like I will be revers engineering all the wiring.

once again, all it does is crank, but not turn over, I probably have multiple problems here, but would like it to just turn over. I need to figure out the power distribution, starting, charging wiring and check them all for voltages. (and relays too) I did notice that the two yellows from the ignition switch go to the "Theft Deterrant Relay", then to starter enable.

Will have to check that out. Oh and btw, all procedures have been done with the negative cable off.