Engine stalls

[tkswan]

I went to bill utter and spoke with the techs. When you turn the key to the on position i can hear the fuel pump cycle. Then i went out (key still on) and pushed the pressure relief valve on the fuel injector rail (FIR). Fuel sprayed out and then stopped as expected because the pump is not steady on unless the engine is running. So, I turned the key off-then-on then on about four times, charging the FIR a little more each time. Then I went for engine start on the fifth and and the engine started, it struggled to idle for about 10 seconds and then it quit again. I hit the pressure relief after it killed and it sprayed fuel. so the fuel pump seems to be good. i guess its time to tow it in. as there is not much more i can do. i'll put an odbii on it later just for the heck of it i guess.

[Franco2112]

It's ok man. I struggled just the same with mine. Did you check your crank position sensor?

[tkswan]

nope. tell me more...i remember you mentioning it but tell me how to test it and what the results should be. please? Rod! Where you at dogg?

[shorod]

I'm actually on vacation and don't like typing on this little phone keyboard. I'm not sure how little fuel pressure would still spray fuel, knowing the pressure number might be beneficial, but a good shop may be the best route at this point.

-Rod

[tkswan]

sorry to call you out while on vacation. i was on vac last week. hey, i gotta try a few more things before i take it in. Where is, and how can i test the crank position sensor? Would the knock sensor Knock sensor. This site was down all day today.

[shorod]

The crankshaft position sensor is on the front of the block, probably just above the pulley. I changed iut one of these not all that long ago on a Sport, not sure of the year. That one had no spark.

I don't think a knock sensor would cause your symptoms.

-Rod

[tkswan]

cool thanks. once i pull it out how do i test whether or not it has a spark? LOL...the sensor!...i have an ohmmeter in the garage. any other sensors in the loop that i may need to investigate? again, the symptoms are:

• this started with engine shut downs at drive idle, and curb/stop sign idle
• now it wont start at all, just turns over
• the fuel pump pressure is good (OEM - 159k miles)
• replaced the fuel filter
• the tank has gas in it

so im looking at sensors noe. putting an odbii on it first thing in the morning. i am holding out on taking it in. i love a challenge.

talk to me goose...

[Franco2112]

Hey we're back. T i removed the crank position sensor and took it to either autozone or oriellys, can't remember and they tested it for response. I believe they used a ohmmeter. It was bad. Replaced with the new one, cranked right up.
Try them.

[tkswan]

i went to use /rent a odbii scanner and they changed thier policy and wouldnt let me use it. so i went and bought one. i got code a code p0320.

[Franco2112]

That helps. P0320 is Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction. Three causes. Bad crank shaft position sensor, cam shaft position sensor or your wiring harness to your computer. On average it's the crankshaft position sensor. The cheapest to replace.

[tkswan]

I read about the same. Is this a simple pull the part and replace it with this engine? I ask because I have read that on some engines you need to manually rotate the the crank until the engine is at TDC before replacing this part. I am getting mixed answers. Also the scanner i bought says it will scan individual sensors. I am reading up on it. if it does i should be able to better isolate the exact faulty sensor.

[shorod]

The factory service manual for the 2000 Explorer suggests that the possible causes for the P0320 code are typically noise-related:

• Loose wires/connectors
• Arcing secondary ignition components (coil, wires and plugs)
• On board transmitter (2-way radio)

On the 2000 model year, all engines have the CKP sensor in relatively the same location, front of the engine near the crankshaft at about the 11 o'clock position. There is no need to index the engine. Are you sure the articles suggesting the engine be at TDC were not referring to the Camshaft Position Sensor (CPS)? Torque the mounting bolts to 89 in-lbs.

I checked the CKP by backprobing the sensor with an oscilloscope, looking for the squarewave when cranking the engine. You can probably check resistance of the sensor too, but it would be a less reliable method. Your scan tool may be able to monitor the CKP signal as well.

-Rod

[tkswan]

I went ahead and pulled the Crankshaft Position Sensor...took it to autozone and got another one. Before I paid ($14) for it I put my ohmmeter on it. The old one read under 200. The new one over 400. I put the new one on the truck and it started right up. Put about 20 miles on it. It runs great again. SUCCESS! YAY! I get my Lincoln back.

Thanks guys, I couldn't have done it without your assistance.

[Franco2112]

T. Glad to hear you found success! That's the same way it happened for me and my Explorer. Relief! Later.

[tkswan]

Well,not so fast.

The odbii released the code for the crank Position Sensor and replaced it with a misfire on #4. I inspected the plug wires and put a new set of plugs on it and it smoothed out a little. I think I fixed the misfire on #4 but NOW, its running rough when in gear and holding the car still.

When accelerating from a stop there is a vibration that feels like a motor mount vibration. Then is smooths out and does well when driving at higher rpm's. We back it in the garage. A slight uphill grade. I let it roll backwards on its own power (no acceleration) it moves the truck but the idle is VERY rough and the exhaust is smelling rich.

I cleared the codes and will wait till they all reset but what could be the problem? Coil maybe. I have a lifetime warranty on it and might pull it and replace it for the heck of it.