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  #16  
Old 08-02-2009, 09:54 PM
Cat Fuzz Cat Fuzz is offline
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Re: How tight should timing belt be?

I'd go with the published spec.
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99 Rodeo LS 3.5L Stroker V-6, 4wd, 31x10.5x15 2 inch Trooper lift, Aisin manual hubs.
03 GMC Envoy XL SLT 4x4 5.3L V8
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  #17  
Old 08-03-2009, 09:40 PM
dbikers dbikers is offline
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Re: How tight should timing belt be?

Cat Fuzz and the rest of the lot of you....
Thanks a bunch for your input. I am now the proud owner of non-diesel sounding rodeo...
Not much fun for a guy with a screwed up back, but it was so bad i was afraid to drive it (and it wasn't gonna fix itself).
I really could have fixed it on the cheap with just a belt and the $70 tensioner but am glad that i went through the entire works (w-pump, pivoting tensioner, idler).



So, here's what i have invested in my 102k mile rodeo.....
  • initial purchase $2250
  • tires/rims combo on CL $250
  • sold old tires/rims combo on CL -$100
  • tensioner $73
  • t-belt kit with pivoting tensioner, idler, w-pump, belt $120
  • upper/lower rad hoses $27
  • t-stat/gasket $15
  • dura last belts $35
  • spark plugs as op had motorcraft plugs in it??(wires looked good) $12
  • R134 charge kit (with hose/valve and gage) $25
I also had a friend fab a dog-containment system to keep my hounds in the cargo area and out of the passenger compartment:


Grand total...$2707 (and a 6-pack for the dog container)i'm not sure that it's really all that much of a bargain and i didn't even really trade up to a newer year, but this SOB is comfy, quiet, smooth and i feel like i am in control (vs my old truck)


I sold my old '94 blue bomber with 241k miles on it (i bought it with 70k on it in '00 and drove every mile like i stole it)....i had it on CL for $600 and a really nice fella who needed an A-B car needed it badly, he said he'd pay the $600, i told him to take it for $550..he was happy and i was glad to get rid of it). So, really i'm only into it for $2157.
Here's the old bomber


Anyway, thank you all for sharing your experiences with all of us on this forum (i have spent nearly every waking moment reading this forum since my the purchase of my new steed).
Safe travels.....

John
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  #18  
Old 08-03-2009, 09:45 PM
highlandlake highlandlake is offline
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Re: How tight should timing belt be?

Nice work! Must be great to hear it purring like it should.

p.s. - If I was a dog, and frustrated to be confined to the rear of the truck I'd chew those headrests like they were bacon-flavored pig's ears!
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  #19  
Old 08-03-2009, 09:52 PM
Cat Fuzz Cat Fuzz is offline
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Re: How tight should timing belt be?

Awesome! Glad you got rid of your F%#D. I very much dislike them. They're overly complicated and put together weird. If you get any sort of snow where you live, you will be amazed at how well your Rodeo will push right through it. We accumulated 5 feet, yes, 5 feet of snow within a 10 day period last winter and my 94 Rodeo didn't even come close to having a problem with it. No studs, no special tires.
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03 GMC Envoy XL SLT 4x4 5.3L V8
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  #20  
Old 08-03-2009, 09:55 PM
dbikers dbikers is offline
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Re: How tight should timing belt be?

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Originally Posted by highlandlake View Post
Nice work! Must be great to hear it purring like it should.

p.s. - If I was a dog, and frustrated to be confined to the rear of the truck I'd chew those headrests like they were bacon-flavored pig's ears!
lol....right now they would taste like go-jo...naw, they calm down after about 10 minutes in the car, but this will stop them from jumping through between the head-rests and landing in kids' laps...we'll see if they survive
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  #21  
Old 08-03-2009, 09:56 PM
highlandlake highlandlake is offline
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Re: How tight should timing belt be?

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As far as rust, i will por the frame..have a few spots of surface rust (in rear door jams, not holes, just a little rust at the seam)...

John
Good idea. I use POR-15 on all kinds of stuff. Have used Eastwood also, but kind of like the POR better. Don't ask me why, all I can say is that the tougher it is to remove from your skin, the better it must stay on the work piece and that stuff is hardest to remove and will find it's way through a pair of disposable rubber gloves. I also buy the multi-pack of smaller cans of the stuff. It's more expensive that way, but will last longer due to not having to throw away partial cans that have been exposed to air over time.

I wonder if I coat my cat with it, he won't get any more ticks. Hmmm, 101 uses for impervious paint.

Good luck with that Rodeo - I'm quite envious now.
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'65 Chevy Malibu SS
'06 Pontiac Vibe (a dead deer fits nicely in the back)
'04 Ford Escape
GMC S-15 4WD
'57 Chevy 210 post sedan
'51 Ford F2 pickup
Recently gone but not forgotten - 68 Chevelle, '97 Rodeo V6 4WD.
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  #22  
Old 08-03-2009, 10:06 PM
dbikers dbikers is offline
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Re: How tight should timing belt be?

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Originally Posted by Cat Fuzz View Post
Awesome! Glad you got rid of your F%#D. I very much dislike them. They're overly complicated and put together weird. If you get any sort of snow where you live, you will be amazed at how well your Rodeo will push right through it. We accumulated 5 feet, yes, 5 feet of snow within a 10 day period last winter and my 94 Rodeo didn't even come close to having a problem with it. No studs, no special tires.
HA! Fuzz, i can honestly tell you my F%#D (pre-95) was the car i have owned the longest in my 40 years....had 3.0L 5-speed...only option was AC and it quit working in '04. I put 161k miles on top of the 70k that the po had on it...i neglected it horribly .. i do not know how it ran for so long. in 9 yrs i replaced 1 clutch, 1 starter, 1 water pump, 1 radiator, and 2 sets of tires. It needed upper/lower ball joints, tie-rod, tie-rod ends, new coils up front and new leafs in rear. I drove it basically for 9 years and did absolutely nothing other than changing oil/filter every 3k...the last year i owned it i was just adding oil...it wouldn't die.

I live in detroit, we get several feet of snow a year...i drive 75 miles round trip from work and i can tell you that even with weight in the back, the F%#D with 1-wheel-peel can be a bit squirrely...i am 100% sure that my new girl will go much better in the snow...but i will tell you, this Rodeo has very big shoes to fill.....

Thanks again ALL!
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  #23  
Old 08-03-2009, 10:29 PM
dbikers dbikers is offline
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Re: How tight should timing belt be?

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Originally Posted by highlandlake View Post
Good idea. I use POR-15 on all kinds of stuff. Have used Eastwood also, but kind of like the POR better. Don't ask me why, all I can say is that the tougher it is to remove from your skin, the better it must stay on the work piece and that stuff is hardest to remove and will find it's way through a pair of disposable rubber gloves. I also buy the multi-pack of smaller cans of the stuff. It's more expensive that way, but will last longer due to not having to throw away partial cans that have been exposed to air over time.

I wonder if I coat my cat with it, he won't get any more ticks. Hmmm, 101 uses for impervious paint.

Good luck with that Rodeo - I'm quite envious now.
I don't know how i am going to get it in the frame rails...either spray or drag a rag...we'll see. I will most certainly drill a hole in each door, tailgate, and hood and spray oil inside (an old trick my pop always did starting with his '50 ford flathead and still does today...every april may he re-spray's his '05 honda mini van like it's gonna rust...just park it in gravel and don't roll your windows down for a month ). Yeah, POR a bit hard to get off skin, but my hands are never clean anyway.....
Oh, and as far as kats, i can only think of one good use for one - turtle bait (sry if yer a cat lover).....lol
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  #24  
Old 08-04-2009, 12:46 PM
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95.5 Rodeo 95.5 Rodeo is offline
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Re: How tight should timing belt be?

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Originally Posted by dbikers View Post
I really could have fixed it on the cheap with just a belt and the $70 tensioner but am glad that i went through the entire works (w-pump, pivoting tensioner, idler).
You'll be happy in the long run that you changed out these items. I made the mistake of replacing the timing belt and tensioner without installing a new water pump. I wanted to save money, but about a year later, the pump started leaking on me. Even though the job was easier the second time around, I should have done the whole thing the first time around. Live and learn.


Dale

Last edited by 95.5 Rodeo; 08-04-2009 at 01:36 PM.
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  #25  
Old 08-04-2009, 04:10 PM
dbikers dbikers is offline
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Re: How tight should timing belt be?

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Originally Posted by 95.5 Rodeo View Post
You'll be happy in the long run that you changed out these items. I made the mistake of replacing the timing belt and tensioner without installing a new water pump. I wanted to save money, but about a year later, the pump started leaking on me. Even though the job was easier the second time around, I should have done the whole thing the first time around. Live and learn.


Dale
Yes, that was pretty much my thoughts on it Dale...i don't want to go back in for another 100k....
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