okay so this 91 civ is pissing me off - Page 2

Ones&zeros · #16 05-30-2008, 11:22 AM

i had trouble w/ mine, so went to a shop and have it loosend off then put it back on, not so tight. drove it back home to finish the job.

readallen · #17 05-30-2008, 11:54 PM

well I got a chance to work on it again and

the timimg belt is right were it suppose to be, i was desperate though so i tried it a tooth both ways and still nothing.and it seems looser that i expected, how much play should it have

i can get the ecu to pull code when i mess with stuff but when it is all buttoned up it wont pull a code.

the coil has 1.3 ohms between the + and - , i believe this is slightly out of spec and 13,500 ohms between + and the tower (i think that is what it is called, electric conection to the cap) the black/yellow and white/blue wire have 12 volts the white wire has alot of resistance to ground, something like 230,000 ohms i'm worn out so ya. and should the blue wire be grounded and how much resistance, i dont remember its status( loss my notes damnit)

so sos sos,,,and im crying now so bye

readallen · #18 05-31-2008, 12:05 AM

ya and your right that crank pulley bolt is kind of tight, broke one extention already, and im getting ready to break more

FrodoGT · #19 05-31-2008, 08:47 PM

I broke 4 ratchets, a socket and 3 extensions. Trust me, if your not using a big mofo for an air gun, then you'll need a half inch breaker and a really big cheater bar.

Christ · #20 06-01-2008, 01:56 PM

I used a husky 3/8" ratchet, a socket, an extension, and a piece of 1foot long uni-strut for a breaker bar... I got it locked, had a friend hold the engine on the gound, and stomped on it... that broke it loose, then I pulled it out, only to find that the only other crank pulley I had was a 19mm, and I had a 21mm snout... dammit. I had to use the balanced ZC pulley, which didn't quite fit correctly.

FrodoGT · #21 06-02-2008, 09:03 PM

BE WARNED. The pulleys are balanced for the engine they came off of, and using another pulley could be disastrous to your crank bearings. Same deal with non balanced underdrive pulleys etc.

readallen · #22 06-02-2008, 09:27 PM

i got the crank pulley bolt off, i tried 3/8 dia., 5in long grade 8 bolts though the holes and a bar between them and they didn't stand a chance and bent right off. i upgraded to 1/2 dia., 5 in long grade 8 bolt, i had to "tread it in to the hole" at first but after it started it went right in and blocked it on the bottom on the wheel well, probally a bad idea. After some bouncing on the end of the breaker bar it made a hell of a noise a broke loose. for a little 4 cyl, why would these bolt have to be this tight

Christ · #23 06-02-2008, 09:28 PM

yeah, I know... but I didn't have a choice.. the one that was on it was horribly broken in the drilled area, and was causing so much vibration that I would have worn a main in 10 minutes... the one that I have on it now is unbalanced, and it's working great, no vibes at all, even w/ one tranny mount (front one, rad support) solid.

it's not the size of the engine that determines how tight the bolts will have to be... it's the loads imposed on the bolt.. it would have to be that tight b/c the front of the crank has the most vibrations, which could cause it to be vibrated loose... the actual torque spec on the bolt is something like 115 ft.lbs, but you have to remember that the bolt tightens in the same direction that the engine turns, which over 20 years, will cause it to tighten up a bit more... and then you have rust/corrosion, etc... which also makes it a bitch...

FrodoGT · #24 06-02-2008, 09:36 PM

Mien had no corrosion, but it was from a 2000. With 89k mi. And it still took a 5+ft cheater and me standing on it bouncing to break it.

readallen · #25 06-02-2008, 09:47 PM

the crankshaft gear's timing mark is very small for such an important detail, if im looking at the right thing, there is a small notch on the side of the gear out on the tooth, offset from the center of the tooth itself. is this it? it seems like the compression (resistance) doesn't match up with the marks, so i screwed, right

the cam is UP and the mark are lined up with the head

but i think it is off on the wrong stroke or something

readallen · #26 06-02-2008, 10:14 PM

i cleaned the grounds on the thermostat housing , but what are the odds of the mating surfaces where this part contacts the engine to be corroded enough to make it bad ground, if so could i run them elsewhere or is there a reason they are connected to it

FrodoGT · #27 06-02-2008, 10:38 PM

Well the bolt will make a sold ground if the thermo housing doesnt. Also for the crank pulley, you can only put it on one way lol..its got a big keyway im sure you noticed. However your cam has to be lined up and timed right or the compression will be very far off, if there at all.

readallen · #28 06-03-2008, 10:51 AM

Where are all the grounds on the car that would cause it not to run, i heard that there is one under or around the ecu, and one under the the dizzy, but i dont see either of them. i have checked and cleaned the- one on the thermostat housing, the one above the hood release, the valve cover, and the battery to body to transmission ground, all with degrees of contamination on them. I have also check the connections in the big round plugs on both sides if the car, some of them were also contaminated. I need help on that stats of the dizzy wires, mine is the ?TD_01U ? the small round plug with a blue and a black wire - are the wires always grounded or just when the key is on, or have 12 volts, resistance, amps, etc... and the igniter wires stats would be a great help. i have the chiltons but it is not give the details on these. for example- the white wire on the igniter should be grounded, mine is, but what resisitance to ground that is within range for proper operation. i have searched and have not found much of anything

and the theromstat ground- i meant the whole housing being a bad ground (mating surfaces), bolts and all- its posible isn't it, thanks for the help frodo

FrodoGT · #29 06-03-2008, 12:22 PM

Well in the engine bay there are 4 grounds. The thermostat which you found. The valve cover which is obvious. The transmission ground which will be found just near the clutch cable if you follow it down. It runs to the body and meets the battery ground there. Also there is one in the wiring harness at the 2 large plugs, right by the fuse box. You wont see it really, but its bolted to the shock tower along with the plugs.

FrodoGT · #30 06-03-2008, 12:34 PM

Also. As for the blk/yel and blue wires. The blk/yel is on the same circuit as the injectors, the eacv, the Iat and such, and is fed +12v directly from the main relay when the ign is on. The blue is the tach output signal, and runs both to the ecu and to the gauge cluster. I have all of the manuals on my laptop but its a little out of commission, cord is messed up. But you can open this one directly in browser so here ya go!

http://www.crxpower.net/~silverkorn/...hop_Manual.pdf

Be warned though. This is for an 88, and a there are a couple things slightly different, like the position of the timing adjustment plug that you have to jump, its near the ecu inside the car, not under the hood.

Also I noticed while converting to OBD-1, the wire colors did not match when it came to the cyl/crank wire colors. They are swapped in the service manuals for 5g civics, yet everyone says to just match the colors. I did what they said and it worked, but I got curious when I was continually throwing a cyl sensor code. I put them the way it looks like it should be in the manual and the damn thing wouldnt even start... so just keep stuff like that in mind.

*edit* not that any of that matters to you, with your dpfi, non-cyl having dizzy :P

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