What is the best budget street racing car?

[DemonZX]

Yeah that's what th n/a Z's run...10:1. Premium only! I give her a little booster sometimes as a treat.

[fatninja19]

What the Zo6's CR?? Isn't it higher than 10:1??

[Wolf Guard]

Personally since I have one and it cost me $3500 I would go with an MN12 Tbird either the 5.0 HO or the SC 3.8

Both have a large upgrade market for them, the HO can take the mustang upgrades as far as the engine goes, the Super Coupe has a couple of companies that do work for them specifically and generally they cost very little, very easy to maintain. Besides they are equivalent to Fox Body mustangs with independent rear suspension and more advanced electronics system. But MN12s are heavier, than Mustangs. Stock the MN12 5.0 is a 15 second car. To get that speed out of an import you have to put alot more money in it.

[M3TLAG]

Originally posted by Fliquer
Definitely have to go with the Nissan 240sx w/ sr20det swap. That or a gen 1 mr2 blown out the ass.

After you drop all of the 10k into the car, and the VERY EXPENSIVE engine....you have nothing left for mods. Now an Acura Integra GSR 93 Model........full of mods would own you!

[Layla's Keeper]

Umm, M3tlag (how the hell do you pronounce that, anyways?)... You're mistaken on the cost of 240SX's and SR20DET's.

An S-13 can be found for as little as $500 (not running 1989, but you'll be swapping anyways) to as much as $3500 for a 1992-93 convertible (but they're automatic only, so they suck). My teammate picked up his silver 1989 S-13 hatchback SOHC for $900 and it's totally straight. The one niggle? The left pop-up head light stays up, and he's installing sleepies to get rid of that.

S-14's are more the cost you're talking (near $10,000), but even still, you're talking top of the market, low mileage 1998 Shark-eyes. Right down the street from me is a '97 Round-eye for $7799. It's automatic, but loaded with all the factory options, and it's priced out of the $5000 market these cars are usually in.

Now, a Red Top DET with tranny will usually cost you around $1500 to $2500, depending on the dealer and the state of the engine (engine only, engine and tranny, turn-key, electrics not included, etc.) Red Tops were found in the 13's and 14's. The more powerful (stock) Black Top will run you a bit more (into the $3000 range) because the trick is finding junked S-15's with intact engines. The beauty is if you buy a Black Top/tranny combo, you get a nice 6-speed close ratio box to replace the US 5-speed, and it still all bolts up.

So, if you go the cheapest route (basket case S-13 and worn Red Top) you'll have a 200+ HP REAR WHEEL DRIVE (which almost always equals ownage) car with plenty of potential for gain for around..... 2k.

Hmm. Sounds pretty "low budget" to me.

[M3TLAG]

Originally posted by Octagon
Umm, M3tlag (how the hell do you pronounce that, anyways?)... You're mistaken on the cost of 240SX's and SR20DET's.

An S-13 can be found for as little as $500 (not running 1989, but you'll be swapping anyways) to as much as $3500 for a 1992-93 convertible (but they're automatic only, so they suck). My teammate picked up his silver 1989 S-13 hatchback SOHC for $900 and it's totally straight. The one niggle? The left pop-up head light stays up, and he's installing sleepies to get rid of that.

S-14's are more the cost you're talking (near $10,000), but even still, you're talking top of the market, low mileage 1998 Shark-eyes. Right down the street from me is a '97 Round-eye for $7799. It's automatic, but loaded with all the factory options, and it's priced out of the $5000 market these cars are usually in.

Now, a Red Top DET with tranny will usually cost you around $1500 to $2500, depending on the dealer and the state of the engine (engine only, engine and tranny, turn-key, electrics not included, etc.) Red Tops were found in the 13's and 14's. The more powerful (stock) Black Top will run you a bit more (into the $3000 range) because the trick is finding junked S-15's with intact engines. The beauty is if you buy a Black Top/tranny combo, you get a nice 6-speed close ratio box to replace the US 5-speed, and it still all bolts up.

So, if you go the cheapest route (basket case S-13 and worn Red Top) you'll have a 200+ HP REAR WHEEL DRIVE (which almost always equals ownage) car with plenty of potential for gain for around..... 2k.

Hmm. Sounds pretty "low budget" to me.

Yeah, an S13 with "high maintenence" issues. No suspension mods, and half ass tires at best. Come on. Want a cheap car. 94 Eclipse GST. 16g upgrade, HKS Cams, FMIC, and etc....boost controller. That would own the 240, Period.

Not trying to piss anyone off, but just having a motor and tires is not too efficient, and for qualities sake....you might as well take the 94 Eclipse that is faster, and just as old.

Maybe it seems as if I am a quality freak. Maybe thats why I purchased an M3. I have worked on these cars way too much to know that if you take an older car out to the races, and run it extremely hard, something has to give. Take for instance my freinds 95 Civic B16A Hatchback, or maybe my freinds 93 LS/VTEC Integra, that had several issues, so he finally rebuilt/replaced several components. He finally came out with a lighter wallet and an 11k rpm redline.

[Layla's Keeper]

You're talking about modifying a turbo car, and you're worried about maintenance issues? Once you go beyond factory expect to get familiar with a comfy creeper or some sturdy floor jacks because the car WILL, not might, WILL, break. Haven't you ever seen rod runs? There will always be that time where you're on the side of the road, waiting for something to cool down, or the truck to come. Tuned motors mean high tolerances. Street driving means excessive wear that is DEADLY to high tolerance motors. This is why, in the 60's, Six-Pack 440 Wedge powered Super Bees and Chargers often beat the Hemi Super Bees and Chargers. The Hemi was a highly tuned motor that needed its owner's full attention, and often stumbled in street driving. The Wedge? Just a big lump of iron.

The whole of my point was that to get the basics of the JDM S13K/180SX (that's another thing, shop around for a CA18 DET, less torque but about $500 cheaper) package, the initial outlay is very cheap. Afterwards, the aftermarket opens up and you can build the car to your desires. The S-13 and S-14 chassis are sufficient for most everything, depending on the parts, of course. You can build a good dragger, stellar autocross or road racer, or get a bit goofy and drift the thing. It's all a matter of the parts you buy after you get the basic package.

Now, the Eclipse? A floppy chassis, numb shifter, and heavy understeering tendency do not a fun car make. Yeah, they drag race them successfully. So? They drag raced Ramblers and Monzas successfully, doesn't make them any more competent as all around cars.

[BlOOe46]

some bmw low-budget, cool cars to think about

a 2002 with an s14 swap

an e30 m3, swapped in place of the s14 a euro spec s52 or an s50 for cheaper . . . car, 5-6k; motor, 6-10k; couple it w/ the factory 4spd w/ od or go one step further and pick up a euro spec e36 6spd

the latter, im thinking is what ill be doing for a next car . . . w/ a good weight reduction, the car would run 321 factory hp and 260 ft lb at the flywheel all on a 24-2500 lb car (all in a classic body style)

its definitely something different then any of the american or jap-import cars

[M3TLAG]

Octagon, I agree w/ you thouroughly, even though it may not look like it.

I work on cars myself, and I have learned a lot people don't do the work themselves, hence leading to high prices. I.e. a freind who just got back his integra, Intake Manifold and Fuel Rail was being put on, and I told him I could do it. However he paid 250 to have his Idle around 1500 and his car running rich. Looks like I have some work coming up.

Im just trying to include the Labor and other expenses in the "budget."

You are very right about the tolerance and quality issues.

BTW, I forgot to say, Second gen. 4G63's are notorious for having rod knock etc. due to the bearings failing.

[Layla's Keeper]

*chuckles* Heck, an argument is always a spot of fun. Good show.

You are right about labor. I don't usually include it because my friends and I do most all our work ourselves. It's a good way to lose money.

[M3TLAG]

Octagon, you are the MF-ing man, lol

Yeah, labor is what will get you, right in the ass.

:::ROD KNOCK MOVIE:::

http://www.turbo4wd.com/movies/rodknock1.mpg

[Cbass]

And as was discussed on another thread, high boost means high octane. For a car you are going to drive every day, nothing beats a 400hp Ford smallblock in a 2300 RX7, with coil overs all around, custom Wilwood brakes, and a nice set of wheels and tires

This car suffers from a sever lack of tireage

[Cbass]

An SR20DET powered S13 is a pretty good choice for street racing, it weighs around 2800 lbs, and has near limitless potential in every regard. Of course, a V8 powered RX7 has more potential, and is lighter to boot

I can't see how $10K into a FWD Acura is going to make a car that's any better than a 240SX with $10K in it. At the sort of power you could be making out of either, the 240SX will have a much easier time putting it to the ground, and the sort of modifications necessary to make the Acura hook up would ruin it's handling.

The 240SX can run faster times with the same power to weight ratio, because it has more traction during a 1/4 mile drag, because of it's RWD layout. It also has better high speed handling, again because of it's RWD layout. Ask anyone who has done professional touring car racing, those cars are no fun to drive. Fast, yes, but more unstable then they are fast. Compare it to a production based GT like a SCCA A class Viper, or Porsche, or Saleen mustang, those cars are actually easier to drive, and a good deal more pleasant.

[DemonZX]

When your puitng all that power down it will be near hell to try to go around twisties. That would be too much work for my taste! With a front wheel drive car with a lot of power it is like you have to pull it through all the turns...rear wheel drive cars you just push them through.

[Steel]

<sob> no, please, keep the rotary in the 7!!

Anyway CBass, im pretty sure he was talking of the FC 7, not the SA or FB, which had aero probs. The FC's run a drag CO of .31 without the spoiler and .29 with the spoiler iirc. Dont need no stinkn bodykits! But definetley get a TII if you decide to get an FC 7, because the N/A's are a bitch to make a lot of power out of (basically wont be streetable, and you have to redo your drivetrain)