Clearcoats. Can you...

[tonioseven]

Polish out the finish first then use the clearcoat.

[gcheok]

What is future? Is there a website for it? btw, if I polish out the paint, would clear coat dull the finish? or do I still have to polish out the clear coat? TIA

To Jay: Which tamiya builds that spoon S2K, would be nice to build..

[Integra14]

Do you paint the Window frames before clearcoating of after?

[primera man]

Originally posted by Integra14
Do you paint the Window frames before clearcoating of after?

Do them after the clearcoat....most frames are done in a matt or semi-gloss. Clearcoating will only turn it to gloss

[Nells98Vic]

After all these years, I still don't have a set rule as to how to treat a painted kit body.

A lot of people say "CLEARCOAT!", other's say "NO CLEARCOAT!" because the real car didn't come with any. Most new cars seem to have it, depending on color, but pre-80s cars didn't.

Some modelers can get a super smooth and glossy surface from just paint, by polishing and waxing. I myself find when going that route, a coat or two of clear helps prevent polishing through to bare plastic or primer, seeing as polishing removes paint. I try to polish a bit between coats of paint AND clearcoat, if possible. The smoother the surface you are painting/coating over, the better your results.

A note: I have been able to apply most decals over a waxed surface, but I do not usually build cars with lots of large decals. In that case, I usually polish the body out, then apply decals, then add some clearcoat and take it from there, depending on the results. Also, applying certain brands of foil onto a waxed body can be a hassle. I try to apply it before, but sometimes bits wear off, and need a touch-up with chrome paint. In essence, sometimes certain stuff won't adhere as well to a waxed surface.

You can shine up a windshield by applying some kind of wax to it. I haven't tried Future, but Meguire's car wax seems to work just fine. If you have an old kit with a damaged windshield, you can try using a polishing kit to hide the blemishes to a point, then wax. Some glues will indeed fog the plastic. STAY AWAY FROM SUPER GLUE! White glue seems to be the best, though if the kit is designed with very good positioning points, normal model glue can work even better. Don't let it bleed out onto the "glass", or you'll have a mess...

Usually, spraying a "hot" paint over a "cool" one will cause problems. While I have not yet worked with real lacquer, I have tried some MCW enamels, and you really have to prime the body properly because they seem rather hot. But I once sprayed actual automotive paint that was used by a body shop on a real Crown Vic onto Duplicolor primer, and the result was GREAT! No peel, no reaction. Whatever paint you use, try and let the paint dry as long as possible between coats. This will help prevent reactions, THOUGH I have not waited, and had no problems.........



...which is why I say, every project can be different. What worked for one model, fails miserably for another. What works great for one person, doesn't for another. Some people live in a place with high humidity, some can paint all year, no problems. Yadda yadda..... It's all a learning experience........

Nells