alternator problems?

[Blue Bowtie]

Actually, there is no "SS" engine, per se. The LT1 used in the Impala SS has no identification indicating anything like that. My guess is that someone installed an aftermarket cover or plate with that logo or script. This is what the '94 Impala SS engine compartment looks like in stock form:



At least, mine does, and it is one of the original 6,330 that were built, not cloned.

[Blue Bowtie]

If the battery has been completely dead recently (so that ALL power was gone), any codes now stored were probably generated since it was replaced or recharged. If the battery maintained as little as 5V, however, the VRAM may not have been erased. Power needs to be removed completely for a length of time. Sometimes a couple minutes, sometimes as much as a half hour.

Back to the problem at hand, error codes or not, the ECM/PCM should not cause the engine to fail to crank unless the VATS/PassKey system is not detecting the proper resistance pellet in the key. One frequently overlooked but potentially important thing is the information provided the operator when the ignition is turned on and all systems become active. When the ignition key is first inserted and turned from the lock to the RUN position (without starting the engine) several things should occur:

1. The "Check Engine" lamp should turn on for about ¼ second, turn off for about ¼ second, then turn back on and remain on until the ignition is turned off or the engine is started.
2. The ABS warning lamp should turn on and remain on for 3-5 seconds while the EBCM performs a basic I/O check of its sensors, then turn off and remain off;
3. The “SIR” or “Air Bag” lamp should turn on for about one second to indicate power, then turn off and flash back on for ½ second for each of the external sensors and loads the SIR module checks. The lamp should flash six times on a ‘94 B-Body to check both air bags and all sensors. Upon testing all sensors and loads successfully, the lamps should turn off and remain off;
4. The Pass Key” lamp should turn on and remain on for five seconds while the VATS performs a basic test and verifies the resistance of the key inserted. It should then turn off and remain off. If it flashes, that indicates a problem with either the VATS module or the key resistor circuit.
5. Both the “Low Fuel” and “Low Washer” lamps should turn on for about three seconds, then turn off and remain off unless the fuel tank or washer reservoir are low.
6. The seat belt warning should turn on unless the belt is buckled to the receiver.
7. The “Brake” warning lamp should turn on only if the park brake is applied.
8. The “Check Gages” lamp should turn on and remain on until the engine is started or ignition is turned off.
9. The speedometer/odometer digital display should light all digit segments in a test mode for about three seconds, then revert to the normal speed and milage displays.

You may want to save that for future reference.

Paying attention to the “Pass Key” lamp, you should be able to determine if the system is operating or not. If it is not, the lamp should flash and you likely will not be able to start the engine (as you describe).

[evildragon]

My engine doesn't have the cover like yours does.. It is bare at the top, and says "SS" written in silver, on a red metal plate that is rivited to the engine...

All the lamps on the dash work like you say they should, except the Check Engine light.. that one just stays on but does remain off for a small bit when the engine starts...

This is as best of a picture of the engine i have right now, a thumbnail... (the full size image doesn't load)..

http://blackevilweredragon.deviantart.com/gallery/scraps/

(it's My Car 4)

EDIT: For the PASS Key lamp, well, heh, here's a small description on that one.. The car has an alarm system that was installed, but that malfunctioned.. Non of the local stores would remove it, because they didn't know how too.. So, what they ended up doing, was pulling the fuse to it, so it's essentially disabled.. However, the car can NOT be started via the key.. I still HAVE to put the key in, and put it on "On", but there's now another button that starts the car, one that is wired directly to the starter, and battery. that never has failed until recently though...

[Blue Bowtie]

The intake resonators (both the "home plate" and "first base") have been removed, replaced with a sewer pipe duct, and someone installed an aftermarket throttle body top cover. That is a common "modification" on B-Body cars. It didn't come from the factory like that. None of that should affect the charging system.

For the PASS Key lamp, well, heh, here's a small description on that one.. The car has an alarm system that was installed, but that malfunctioned.. Non of the local stores would remove it, because they didn't know how too.. So, what they ended up doing, was pulling the fuse to it, so it's essentially disabled.. However, the car can NOT be started via the key.. I still HAVE to put the key in, and put it on "On", but there's now another button that starts the car, one that is wired directly to the starter, and battery. that never has failed until recently though...

As for the remote start nightmare, that is a potential problem, as most of them are. It would be best to get a factory wiring diagram and restore the system to its original state. I can only imagine the mess, having fought with other such systems in the past. I wouldn't give a wooden nickel for any of them.

Unfortunately, the hardware itself is usually reasonably good, but the hack-job installations cause most of the problems. Solder is something of a complete mystery to those people, and "insulation" and "wire loom" means a roll of Chinese plastic tape and zip ties. I could "fix" a lot of those installers' problems with a 20" zip tie cinched up in the appropriate places, but those installers get paid to complete installation jobs quickly, not necessarily right.

[evildragon]

yea, i was all set and ready just now to rewire it, then decided "heck no!", once i got under the dash.. it's a total mess, all the wires are "tight", there's like no way to move any of them..

i decided to take a look at the radio itself, and i think there's a potential problem there, which "might" be a cause for the electrical issue on the car.. the car has an audio amplifier installed, so, leaving the radio on (to diagnose it), i unplugged it's "Line Out" speakers, and well what do you know, the speakers are still ON, but not as bassy.. turns out, whoever messed with this thing, did a hack job on it.. they tied the amp and the radio amp together, and tied the speaker ground to the electrical ground, which the radio itself says NOT to do.. (it's a JVC radio, which it's CD player doesn't even work)..

EDIT: Here's big pictures I just took of the engine.. I'm confused about the alternator.. Is that the right one for my car? I don't know, but it looks like the low-amperage one, where my service manual says 94 and above has high-amperage..

http://blackevilweredragon.spymac.com/car/1.jpg
http://blackevilweredragon.spymac.com/car/2.jpg
http://blackevilweredragon.spymac.com/car/3.jpg
http://blackevilweredragon.spymac.com/car/4.jpg
http://blackevilweredragon.spymac.com/car/5.jpg

[evildragon]

UPDATE: While I was in school, someone who has the same car as me, said that the diagnostic mode will NOT produce a Check Engine light, but will produce CLICKING sounds..

I tried again, and this time listened (i had my iPod on when i tried this morning), and yes, it DID make clicking sounds.. It gave a rapid click (or a dash), and two short clicks (dot-dot).. i'd imagine that's error code 12.. But that's all it gave, was a 12.. nothing else..

[evildragon]

ok, let's see if THIS is the alternator now..

I tried staring the car this morning, and the engine sound aweful, with a VERY high pitch screeching sound.. The cars volt meter went EXTREMELY low, and the radio almost shut off...

Then, I smelt burning rubber, so I immediately turned off the engine.. I pop open the hood, and find the belt STUCK to the alternator.. literally stuck to it.. I tried pulling the belt off the engine, but it's permanently fused to the damned thing...

I'm guessing either the alternator ceased up, or something other very weird happened... But it aint coming off..

Could the alternator have done that? I can still spin it though (though with the belt stuck)