Finishing with clear

[chato de shamrock]

I've been procrastinating the sanding on one of my cars but tomorrow i'll for sure do it

Once that's done im going to apply a few decals including the carbon decal on the hook and trunk of the car. Im going to then apply the clear coat over the decals. It's going to be my first time doing it this way. I've read that many of you apply a couple of mist coats before applying the wet coats. Im assuming the wet coats are a good amount of clear over the body.

Can some of you describe how you apply your mist coats. With the limited space I have in my apartment I mount my cars on Tamiya's painting stand and hold it with one hand while I spray with the other. Im thinking my method of "mist" spraying will be to hold the car back further than how I normally would. Now please, if someone foresee's disaster from this please stop me.

One last thing, does anyone know of a link that provides the hobby terms/definitions? I just recently figured out what orange peel meant and am still clueless about what wet and dry sanding are.

Thanks in advance guys.

[cyberkid]

Originally Posted by chato de shamrock

Can some of you describe how you apply your mist coats. With the limited space I have in my apartment I mount my cars on Tamiya's painting stand and hold it with one hand while I spray with the other. Im thinking my method of "mist" spraying will be to hold the car back further than how I normally would. Now please, if someone foresee's disaster from this please stop me.

Disaster foreseen!!
Holding the model back will cause the paint to dry mid-air. Thus ending in a rough surface.
OK this is how I do it: I normally spray at 2-3 inches with an AB and 5-8 with a can.
For misting: I don't change the distance, I just change the speed in which I move the can across the model. Basically, I move the can across as fast as I can without my hand slamming into something.
With a AB, I use less paint (I don't pull back on the trigger that much) and go a tad slower. Just make sure you leave enough time between coats.
Now-a-days, I normally let it sit in my paint booth for around 40-60 minutes until the next coat. I do 2 to 7 mists depending on the paint (color/clear) and if there are decals involved. With clear and decals, I do 5-7 coats. One note though, my mists are a very thin mist coat.
Just keep in mind that what works for one may not work for the other. The only definite answer: Try and see what works for YOU!
Try on a scrap piece and see what happens.

Originally Posted by chato de shamrock

I just recently figured out what orange peel meant and am still clueless about what wet and dry sanding are.

Wet and dry sanding are exactly what the words say.
Dry sanding: Take the sandpaper or whatever abrasive you are using and rub it across the object. Results: sandpaper clogs up easily and you get a acceptable surface. (I normally only dry sand up to 1500 grit, mostly to clean big scratches and make modifications)
Wet sanding: Soak the sandpaper in water until it turns soft (make sure that you have "wet & dry sandpaper" otherwise the sandpaper will fall apart at this point) and keep it sufficiantly wet throughout sanding. A lot of poeple add a drop of dishwash liquid to help lubricate the sanding water, ratio= water 1L: dishwash liquid 1drop. I personally sand under the tap. Results: Sandpaper doesn't clog that easily and is whatever get clogged in the sandpaper is easily cleaned off afterwards. Surface is much smoother and more mirror like compared to dry sanding. (I wet sand 1500 and up)

HTH,
Steve

[rod_k2]

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d4...3/HPIM5043.jpg
This is orange-peel paint car!! see how rough the paint is? That is orange peel. On some paints,it looks orange! So,that's why it's called that way.

[colbro1973]

I recently started using this technique on my motorcycle models, works very well for me when clear coating decals.
First get your base coating done, if you are using the likes of zero paints from Hiroboy.com website, then I find a couple of coats of halfords automotive laquer over them gives you a quick drying hard glossy surface for decals (do not use halfords over decals though, very aggresive).
lay down your decals, then once your decals are properly dried I mist on a couple of coats of Mr top coat, (i think you could lay it down heavy straight away if you prefered as it doesn't toch decals!)
I find 3 coats of this stuff comes up great, then polish after a week or so for a great decal fiendly shine. only downside is cost of mr topcoat £5 for small tin, mind you that is no worse than cost of tamiya ts spray.

I think this technique would work quite well for any one new to modelling, also mr topcoat goes on great straight from can. too see the results I had using this look here:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=675527

thanks
Col

[chato de shamrock]

Thats some nice work colbro, and thanks to you cyberkid, and rod for clearing some of these terms up. Im going to try clear coating over my deals for the first time and winstona (fellow member) suggested Gunze. Ive always avoided that brand because its more expensive than tamiya, model masters, and testors; and i've always applied my decals over the clear coat. However, at this point I only use testors and model masters spray cans only if i have no other alternative, and I've read tamiya clear has given many members on here problems when sprayed over decals. I want to try something different this time and ive seen the big difference when covering the decals with clear coats. My LHS has Mr. Hobby clear and super clear. I guess thats extra glossy? Im thinking of trying that one out. Thanks guys.

[colbro1973]

I think super clear is a more aggresive clear coat with decals, so be very careful if you use that one!