And is dead - Page 2

defiancy · #16 01-08-2007, 05:24 PM

Well if there is no damage to the Rod or the cylinder than you would just need to replace the bearings.

But really it just sounds like it might be a better idea for you to rebuild the motor. Atleast replace everything with OEM parts.

Do all the bearings, rings, studs/hardware and replace the pistons.

This would explain your erratic oil pressure.

gsxeclipse97 · #17 01-08-2007, 06:00 PM

All of these things were just replaced. I know that i will need to replace the bearings but i don't have the time to rebuild the hole thing. will the piston drop out from the bottom if. I've never done this so it will be an learning experince. But i need it done in less than four days so about how long does it take to do all of this.

defiancy · #18 01-08-2007, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxeclipse97

All of these things were just replaced. I know that i will need to replace the bearings but i don't have the time to rebuild the hole thing. will the piston drop out from the bottom if. I've never done this so it will be an learning experince. But i need it done in less than four days so about how long does it take to do all of this.

Well I mean you could pull it out from the bottom but getting it back in would be a different story.

If you are going to just change the bearings, it may be possible to do it from under the car, the only problem is you would have to turn the motor and such.

gsxeclipse97 · #19 01-08-2007, 09:00 PM

Well this is crapy.. I don't want to have to tear it all down again but i was told that if it was a thrown rod the car wouldn't run at all. whats the difference between a spun bearing and thrown rod?

defiancy · #20 01-08-2007, 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxeclipse97

Well this is crapy.. I don't want to have to tear it all down again but i was told that if it was a thrown rod the car wouldn't run at all. whats the difference between a spun bearing and thrown rod?

Well they are pretty similar but a little different.

When you throw a rod the bearings on the rod side of the crank break down.

A spun bearing simply means that the bearings have come out of the little detent that holds them in place allowing them to spin.

Both require you to replace the bearings.

gsxeclipse97 · #21 01-08-2007, 10:36 PM

Well they both have a completely different sound. I know when i spun a bearing the car knocked the hole time and was never quite. this is more so quite when you are in nutral but when you put it in gear thats when it starts making all of the noise. Its more like a clanging sound and it has that scratching sound that i refered to in the begining. So why doesn't the thrown rod make noise the entire time as well. the people who looked at it didn't take the pan off I think that they just went by the sound it was making. It has a knock on the bottom of the pan but in nutral its quite. There are things that just add up in the motor. The guy that put it together said not to drop the pan he will be here this weekend to have a look at it but if so i need to by some 30 over pistons and have the block bored and he said that you can use the same bearing??? that is assuming that the motor is toast. He still thinks that its the flywheel coming loose because he said that the motor doesn't make the noises that I have described.

gthompson97 · #22 01-08-2007, 11:00 PM

That guy sounds like a complete idiot. No, you cannot rebuild a motor with it in the car by pulling the pistons out of the bottom, it's not even possible to get the pistons out the bottom, they have to go out the top. If you spun the bearings, they are replaceable, but if they went out this fast, they'll just do it again, something needs to be fixed/replaced. Getting .30 over pistons and boring the block won't solve a thing if you just spun a rod bearing(s), but if you spun some crank bearings, then the block and crank are both fucked. If it was bearings though, they would get progressively worse and the motor would finally just lock up. He may be right with the flywheel bolt diagnosis, but it is a DSM, it could be ANYTHING. If you have some spare time on your hands, pull off the oil pan and take off a rod cap or two and check out what the bearings look like, if they're all scratched and scarred, they're toast but if they're nice and smooth, then you most likely didn't spin a bearing. Just make sure when you pull the caps, do NOT mix up where they go and how they go on, they MUST go on exactly how they came off and keep them completely dust free, otherwise when you put them back on, they'll burn up in no time.

gsxeclipse97 · #23 01-10-2007, 07:04 PM

Well if it threw a rod and srcatched the cylinder wall wouldn't i have to have that machined out and getting the bigger pistons so there isn't so much piston slap. That is one of the problems that it had when i first started it up. They told me that the clearance for the pistons was to much. He said that it is supose to be 3 thousandsths and mine was 20 thousandsths. Another thing is that they used 20 over rings and cut them to fit in the space because there would have been to much blow by if they would have used the stock rings. I wonder if that is what caused the problem. Does anyone know how much a new wheel lock would cost because I can't get mine off. The damn people at discount tire stipped mine and now its broke. THey said that they don't replace those you just have to get a new one.

defiancy · #24 01-10-2007, 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxeclipse97

Well if it threw a rod and srcatched the cylinder wall wouldn't i have to have that machined out and getting the bigger pistons so there isn't so much piston slap. That is one of the problems that it had when i first started it up. They told me that the clearance for the pistons was to much. He said that it is supose to be 3 thousandsths and mine was 20 thousandsths. Another thing is that they used 20 over rings and cut them to fit in the space because there would have been to much blow by if they would have used the stock rings. I wonder if that is what caused the problem. Does anyone know how much a new wheel lock would cost because I can't get mine off. The damn people at discount tire stipped mine and now its broke. THey said that they don't replace those you just have to get a new one.

Who the hell built the motor, Wal-mart?

If they used 20 over rings than the cylinders should have been bored 20 over.

If they said they cut the rings to fit, It just makes me question wether the fact they are not complete retards.

I'm very confused by your statement.

What you need to do is take your motor apart and take it to a machine shop who knows what the hell they are doing.

And if what I gather from what your saying, your block was already bored over 20 over and they used stock pistons with 20 over rings.

I'm sorry that just doesn't work. If that is the case, you need to demand them to return your money and cut their hands off because they have no business working on cars.

gthompson97 · #25 01-10-2007, 10:36 PM

I agree with Defiancy, that doesn't make any sense at all and they should've been out of business before they started, COMPLETE idiots. The likelihood that you actually snapped a rod and it hit the cylinder wall is pretty slim to none, but it does happen I guess. I'm thinking that you should just buy a whole new motor that you know runs.

gsxeclipse97 · #26 01-13-2007, 02:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by defiancy

Who the hell built the motor, Wal-mart?

If they used 20 over rings than the cylinders should have been bored 20 over.

If they said they cut the rings to fit, It just makes me question wether the fact they are not complete retards.

I'm very confused by your statement.

What you need to do is take your motor apart and take it to a machine shop who knows what the hell they are doing.

And if what I gather from what your saying, your block was already bored over 20 over and they used stock pistons with 20 over rings.

I'm sorry that just doesn't work. If that is the case, you need to demand them to return your money and cut their hands off because they have no business working on cars.

The block wasn't bored bored 20 over. the stock rings that i had there was more than twice the gap that is supose to be in there for the rings. The block had been honed twice so the bore was more than what the stock pistons were but not quite the 20 over. So they used the 20 over rings to fill the rest of the gap that would have been there if they used the stock ones. He told me that they had to use those rings or there wouldn't have been any compression or it would have been very low if they would have used the stock rings. But the 20 over rings were to big for the cyclider so they had to cut them to make them fit. He said that it would wear down the rings faster but it was the only way to insure that there would be good compression and, when ever I had more money to take the motor and have it bored to 30 over and get pistons to match and those would come with the rings. So there was a good amount of piston slap because the bore wasn't exactly 2.0 but it wasn't 20 over. So its somewhere in between. Thats why he said to get the bigger pistons and have it bored out that way it would all be right and ready to put back together assuming that is the problem. He thinks that it could still be the fly wheel but he hasn't come over here to check it out yet. And its been 2 weeks now and i need my car to work. Not to mention i went to mitsu today to get a new wheel lock but its the wrong size so i have to go bat tommorrow. So should i just get the 30 over pistons now and just do it all at once or try to wait until school is out and try to do it over the summer. or spring break. If i can make it until then that would be great but I think the motor has to be redone again. Hoping not but if thats what it takes I'm going to need some help because I don't have another 4 months to wait. Thats how long it took them to do the swap in the first place.

gthompson97 · #27 01-13-2007, 02:59 AM

It'll never last that long if they mexican'd the shit out of it the first time. You could hone it 100 times and not get even close to being .20 over, that guy is filling you full of shit and doesn't know what he's doing. You can not grind down rings to fit, that would fuck up EVERYTHING. You got ripped off dude, take it to a reputable shop that won't fuck you and get it done right the first time before you ruin any more parts.

gsxeclipse97 · #28 01-13-2007, 04:49 PM

The only dsm shop around here now isn't taking anymore street cars for the next 5 months because they are building 3 or 4 race cars for people. And the other place thats around here is not good because they do everything wrong from what i've heard about them. I almost feel that i would be better off doing it myself. Just to follow the manual that i have and go on ahead and get the bigger pistons and have it bored. that way i can start fresh with no problems. If you want something done right you have to do it yourself.

Or to people who anwser there phone when you call because they told you that they were going to be there.

defiancy · #29 01-13-2007, 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxeclipse97

The only dsm shop around here now isn't taking anymore street cars for the next 5 months because they are building 3 or 4 race cars for people. And the other place thats around here is not good because they do everything wrong from what i've heard about them. I almost feel that i would be better off doing it myself. Just to follow the manual that i have and go on ahead and get the bigger pistons and have it bored. that way i can start fresh with no problems. If you want something done right you have to do it yourself.

Or to people who anwser there phone when you call because they told you that they were going to be there.

Yeah because you got boned hard on that motor.

If you have faith in your abilities as a mechanic, than I would do it yourself. I would have the motor bored 20 over. Just make sure you take it to a reputable machine shop to have it bored.

When you do get it bored over, you need to get both 20 over pistons and 20 over rings.

gthompson97 · #30 01-13-2007, 05:58 PM

I think you'd almost be better just buying a complete used motor or something than to try do it yourself. It sounds like you don't have much (if any) mechanical experience and building a motor is definitely not for the beginner. You can fuck up ALOT of stuff. The manual gives a very generalized description of how to build a motor, but I would definitely not go by just that.

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