'87 Civic Si ECU LEDs 1 & 8

[lxndr]

Check Ebay to see if one pops up, check your local junk yards, or check out www.redpepperracing.com to see if someone has a good used distributor for sale.

I recently sold my distributor off my old EW motor for $25, expect to pay $25-$40 for a used one.

[wraydeeoh]

Thanks, lxandr...I'll check redpepper. Local junkyards were a bust.

[lxndr]

Originally Posted by wraydeeoh

Thanks, lxandr

Ah, close enough.

It's actually "lxndr" which is just my name (Alexander) without the vowels.

Anyway, I'm glad to help.

[wraydeeoh]

Whoops...sorry about that. I did find several possible hits at redpepperracing, but it seems like the distributors go pretty quickly. Waiting for replies. Thanks again!

[wraydeeoh]

Looks like the '86 '87 Civic/CRX Si distributors...I see them call them dizzys over on redpepper..new to me...are hard to come by. They get snapped up fast. Used prices elsewhere seem to range from about $100 to about $225. New prices from $800 (Honda list) to about $300 with core exchange through Car Quest jobber.

[wraydeeoh]

Thanks to a used parts place out in northern Cal. and a supplier down in Tenn., I found a used distributor that should get this Conn. Si be back in shape soon. Hondanation.

[wraydeeoh]

Here's the final chapter (I hope) in this saga. Turned out that Tennessee supplier send the wrong distributor. Not even close. It took a couple more weeks for the used parts guy (actually located in TX) to locate one in Jacksonville, NC. Received it this week. Installed it Friday. LEDs went dark, engine starts well, good power, pickup. Still a slightly rough idle when warm which gets a bit rougher when power brakes are applied. Vacuum leak in the booster maybe? Anyway, orginal problem indicated by LED's...bad oxygen sensor and bad crank angle sensor (in distributor)...cured by replacing both.

[wraydeeoh]

Ok..so that wasn't the final chapter. Several days later, with no problems, the darn dashboard trouble light stayed on before the car even cranked over. It runs, but wants to stall after it warms up. Throttle angle sensor or dashpot seem to be screwed up, but the ECM showed no LED trouble codes. And, there was a suspicious smell. Long story short, I found a huge mouse nest, crafted out of insulation taken from the inside firewall pad, inside the cowling! The stuff would blow into the car every time I opened the air vents. Then, a couple days later, a mouse wedged itself inside the driver's side air vent and, of course, died there. So, I'm thinking there's a family under the dash somewhere stripping Si wiring for its nest. I'm tearing it all apart. Anybody disassemble a dash? Is it possible to take it down to the firewall? Thanks for any ideas.

[lxndr]

Yes it's possible to take the whole dash out. It's actually relatively simple since there are only about 6 bolts/screws holding the dash in, but there are several wiring connectors to keep track of. It should take about 30 minutes to liberate the dash, but time really depends on how well you work while standing on your head.

Oh, don't forget the screw under a cover in the top center of the dash up against the windshield.

[wraydeeoh]

Thanks for the tips Tomorrow's project.

[wraydeeoh]

Well, can't find any damage from mice inside the dash. Yet I'm still getting a very low, rough idle after it warms up (around 300-400 rpm) and PGM-FI light stays lit. No LEDs show on ECM. Resistance values show okay on replacement distributor crank angle sensor and throttle angle sensor. MAP sensor connections all seem solid. Any ideas out there? Much appreciated.