won't start

[airy_m]

voltage was @ 12.64 before connecting. once connected AND running batt.was meas. @ 14.21 with new alt. Everything working. ran on highway for 30 miles w/all lights, AC, stereo w/ 2 amps. came home, turned off car, then nothing. not even a click from the starter. batt. still measuring 12.69

[ern2112]

I think a fuse may be suspect here. Have you looked at the under the hood fuses?

[richtazz]

You need to have someone turn the ignition switch to start while you put a test light on the "s" terminal of the solenoid. If the light doesn't illuminate when the key is in start, you have a neutral safety switch or ignition switch issue.

[ern2112]

Rich......I suspected this too....but why the heck do you think that if he jumps it from another car....it starts???? Strange

[richtazz]

I re-read the post (thanks, ern2112) and now I'm suspecting a bad battery cable between the jump post and the battery. When he hooks up the jumper cables, the ignition switch is drawing power from the jumper cables through the battery bolt, instead of getting it's juice from his battery. Test for power at the "s" terminal first without the jumper cables connected, then with the jumper cables connected. If it has power to the "s" terminal with the jumper cables connected, but not without, then the positive battery cable is bad(the branch that runs from the battery to the "jump post"). This is assuming that whomever tested his new battery knows what they are doing.

[airy_m]

I am on my way to have both battery and alternator checked out. I did replace all battery cables including the positive to the post prior to replacing batt. and alt. After this, I will check the voltage at the "s" terminal to the relay. I'll even change the dang relay if I have to. Thanks for everyone's input. I'll post my results later.

[airy_m]

Well, it's been a while and I did figure out the problem. The solonoid to the starter was bad. So after about three hundred and some odd dollars the vehicle is back to normal. Even if it is just for a little while! You see, this now makes it the seventh starter I have gone through in just the three and a half years that I have owned this vehicle. I should have known better what the problem was. But what gets me is that no matter if the starter is from AZ, O'rielly, Advance they all wind up doing the same thing after within just six to eight months. They turn and start the engine fine, then they start to click, then nothing. Talk about Twilight Zone s*@#! Yeah right. Any insight would be appreciated.

[richtazz]

With some rebuilt starters, they don't replace or rebuild the solenoids. They bench test them for operation, and re-use them if they pass(even if only marginally) The contacts get worn and they will start to fail. The reason the car would start with the jumper cables is a matter of voltage. A fully charged 12v battery actually produces 2.1v-2.2v volts per cell, so it's actually a 12.6-13.2 volt battery. A vehicles electrical system produces 14.8v-16.2v, to ensure enough power to run the accessories as well as keeping the battery charged while running. The slightly higher voltage while jumping is just enough to overcome the resistance in the worn starter solenoid, therefore allowing the car to start with a jump, but not with the battery.

[becscar]

Did you ever figure out the problem? I read about this same problem with Grand Am (someone posted it on the Grand AM forum) and Cavaliers, what causes this? I was about to look into buying a used GM car, but so many of them have this issue. I would like to know what it is & how to repair it before I buy one.
Thanks