88 Delta 88 Starting Problem - Injectors Leaking??

[Ron AKA]

Originally Posted by niemo810

i have another problem also, and i was wondering if it was the same for you: when i rest my foot on the accelerator just slightly at low speeds, the car sort of jerks back and forth rapidly.
any help with any of these problems is GREATLY APPRICIATED!!

No problem like this at all. Mine runs perfectly if only I can get it started!

Ron

[lotec1983]

Ron AKA …I have exactly the same problems with my 1989 Delta 88. Just for your info the fuel pump check valve should hold 15 PSI pressure for 60 s. To check this the fuel line has to be disconnected from filter and you could use cooling system pressure pump to check the pressure drop. My holds the pressure for seven to eight hours. I changed FPR . three injectors, wires , MAF, and clean the throttle body , inspect ECM connectors,
The car still not start properly in the morning.

My next step is to check adjustment of TPS.
I am not 110 % sure if all engines used a crank signal to enrich the fuel during cranking. The signal is 12 V signal to ECM position C9 until engine is running. Check with test light on pin C9 . Light should be On during cracking and go OFF when engine is running. There is 3A fuse in the circuit or fuse link. The wire is attached to starter solenoid circuit.

[chevelleman]

one sure fire way to see if the fuel pressure regulator is bad is to take the vacuum hose off and see if any raw gas comes out of it after it sits for a while or right when you shut it off take the vacuum hose off and watch to see if any gas drips from it what happens is the rubber diaphram ruptures and start leaking and you get unmetered gas getting sucked into the engine

another thing to try is the check the resistance across your coil packs i had a coil go bad on me last winter and it was doing exactly as you described, take the two plug wires off the coil pack and check the resistance across the terminals spec on them is anywhere from 10k-13k when i checked mine when my car was hard to start the two bottom ones read about 12k and the top one read 30k when it was cold and when it warmed up it would read about 20k once i changed the coil pack it started like a dream

[Ron AKA]

Well back at this thing again. Thanks to exalteduser and chevelleman. I have replaced the starter drive and now it starts fine when warm. The overrunning clutch in the drive obviously was bad.

I checked the coil resistance when cold (about 5 deg. C) and found resistance at 16K, 25K, & 47K ohms. Started and ran it for 20 minutes and then checked them again. I got 14K, 14.5K, and 19K ohms. So this looks like it could be at least part of the cold start problem. Could not find one today at a good price so ordered one and will install tomorrow. Cost in Edmonton, Canada ranged from $92 to $168!

Does anyone know for sure what the coil resistance should be? I noted Chevelleman says about 12K. This on line manual says 5-8K? See this link. My coil is identical to the ones in the photos at this link.

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d8015c33d.jsp

Will post tomorrow on results,

Ron

[Ron AKA]

I replaced the coil set and the plug wires while I was at it. New coils had a consistant 8500 ohms each on the secondary and 0.9 ohms on the primary. Starts good now, but it is not real cold, so I guess the next cold morning will tell the tale. At least I have got it running reliably when cool or warm.

[Ron AKA]

Well it started without plugging in at -16 C this morning, so I think I am ready to declare victory on this one. The coil must have been the root problem.