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| Forced Induction Discuss topics relating to turbochargers, superchargers, and nitrous oxide systems. |
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#16 | |
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The Red Baron
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Well, us TD guys have found that the 2.5 common block has better torque than the 2.2 because it has a longer stroke but it suffers in the higher end. I guess if you have a 3,300 pound car or more you might need the extra torque, but I for one have a 2,900 pound car and I like having a good amount of speed in the upper RPM range.
I guess it just depends on what you want. |
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#17 | ||
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AF Ford Contour-Advisor
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Re: Re: Re: List of Cars that Take Well to Forced Induction
Quote:
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![]() "The CEG Nazi" www.contour.org 1996 Ford Contour SE - Sold 3.0L V6 and Arizona Dyno Chip Turbo Kit 364 whp, 410 wtq @ 16 psi and only 4,700 rpms. 1999 Tropic Green SVT Contour - Bone stock and MINT |
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#18 | |
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The Red Baron
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Yeah, but a knock sensor won't save you at max boost. It will save you while just driving around but at max boost it will happen too fast and too violently for the kock sensor to compensate and thus you have ash trays.
I still firmly believe that 8:1 - 9.5:1 is where I would run on a street car. If you have a race only car then go to town since you will be running race fuel anyhow. Just my humble opinion. |
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#19 | |
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AF Enthusiast
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Re: List of Cars that Take Well to Forced Induction
I'd go with the LT1 Camaro and SC it.
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#20 | |
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240SX Guy
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Re: List of Cars that Take Well to Forced Induction
Knock sensor on KA's is disregarded after 4krpm. So some knock sensors are pretty much useless anyways.
Water injection is a good way to run higher boost on high CR too with lower octane fuel. Once again, another thing you would have to monitor.
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-Cory 1992 Nissan 240sx KA24DE-Turbo: The Showcar Stock internals. Daily driven. 12.6@122mph 496whp/436wtq at 25psi |
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#21 | |
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AF Enthusiast
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Re: List of Cars that Take Well to Forced Induction
my dream for a tuner would be to have everything electrical with switches and such on my dash. so if you have a high compression ratio or a turbo capable of high boost, have an electronic boost controler that you can switch from one boost setting to another by flicking a switch, you could have the high boost setting with tuned water or alcohol injection so you don't detonate. you could have alcohol or water injection on a switch if you want to run lower octane to save money. you can turbocharge any vehicle it's just the work that goes into it. for vehicles that take well to being turbocharged, go for a car that has a decently low CR so that you don't need to worry about lowering the compression ratio too much, you need a strong enough block (I hear Honda's H22's have thin cylender walls and you can't run more than like 5-8 PSI without extensive engine work before the cylenders crack), a car that has some well sized exhaust ports. you want a strong car that breaths well, is reliable, a knock sensor is always a plus, and if it has good power stock, another plus.
Now for cars that go well with FI: You've got the integra, the B18 (not sure what letter, probably all) has a lowish CR and you can run some decent boost without much work, the b16 (again not sure about letters) has a higher CR but apparently is very responsive to boost, it's available in civics and crx's, LS1 is good (camaros, firebirds), corollas, some of the engines have 10.3:1 CR so those aren't as good but the ones with 9.4:1, lower the compression with some thicker gaskets and you can run some good boost, these cars are light so you don't need as much power to get them moving fast, 240sx, there's more but i think this is good. |
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#22 | |
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AF Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Mazdaspeed protege comes stock with a Garret t25 ceramic ballbearing turbo, ran a manual boost controller and with that tiny turbo my protege could handle 12 lbs of boost
then I foolishly ran maximum boost on stock inernals not knowing that t25 would run 15 lbs with a 16.6 pound spike! I through a rod through the BOTTOM end! |
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