ABS Revisited

[steve_o]

I have had this problem for about a year. Put little black stickers over the light to keep my sanity.

In that time I have tried a lot of the easier suggestions of past threads like pull and clean each sensor and top off the fluid, etc.

I think my next step is bleed and flush the brake fluid. I think I have replaced every fluid in this '99. Side Note: The power steering fluid was a first for me with any vehicle that I have ever owned, and it needed it.

Last summer I had a racoon or other varment chew through two spark plug wires in the north woods of Wisconsin, maybe he did more damage.

I will get under there and look this week, while I ponder the time needed for a trans cooler install. to double check, the flow goes through the top of the radiator cooler and out the bottom?


Right now I am knee deep in a lower intake manifold gasket for a 1998 3.1L GM product. Either I know how to pick the winners or every manufactuer needs to funnel money backing to the repair stream by designing problems the average person won't attempt. (anyone remember TSB 3-16)

Thanks for the responses.
Steve

[DRW1000]

In an effort to try and correct my ABS system I plan to do the following this weekend:

1) Check the voltages at the under vehicle ABS module (Didn’t know it existed until last week).
2) Clean each wheel sensor – again
3) Bleed the brakes.

I plan to use the following method for bleeding.
1) 1) Empty reservoir and fill with new fluid.
2) Start at RR and bleed towards front.
3) In an attempt to empty the brake cylinders I was planning on pinching the brake lines at each wheel so that when I use my vacuum pump it will empty the fluid from the cylinders. (My hesitation is that it will draw the shoes in and the pads out. Will this cause me any problems? When I pump my brakes afterwards I will need to refill the reservoir.

Does anyone see any major flaws in my plan? Approximately how much fluid should I plan on? I was planning on purchasing 2 – 750 ml bottles.

[12Ounce]

Please do not pinch the brake lines, you do not want to get inner wall separation. So what if the wheel pistons/calipers collapse a bit? .... will not hurt a thing. (BTW, these wheel components are designed to withstand a pretty high vacuum without leaking air into the system ... this allows manufacturers to use vacuum to purge air from the system just before filling with fluid... by evacuating the air first, the overall fill time is greatly reduced ... and no bleeding is required.)

Just make sure to stroke the brake pedal a couple of times before driving away.

[DRW1000]

Thanks for the advice 12ounce. If I do not pinch the brake lines (which I won't now that you have recoomended against it) does this mean that the fluid in the claipers/brake cylinders will not really get replaced since as I apply vacuum it will draw from the now unpinched line?

[12Ounce]

I'm not sure I understand your concern ... but let me take a stab ... Except for a small bit of mixing and tumbling, as you draw fresh fluid down from the reservoir it will pretty well push the old fluid out. I believe, with the 1.5 litre fresh fluid installed, there will no measurable trace of the old fluid left behind.

You can improve your chances by collapsing the calipers (bleed screw open) and sucking out the reservoir ... this lessens the volumn of old fluid before you start with the fresh. I personally would not bother with collapsing the calipers, ....but would muck out the reservoir. Maybe I would also pop the reservoir loose for additional cleaning. Maybe. Depends on sediment amount.

[DRW1000]

Thanks 12Ounce!!


As always your opinions and comments are appreciated

[CoachKarl]

I used a quart plus a 12 oz can of DOT3 when my friend and I did mine. We did pop off the master cyl resevoir. We did not collapse the slave cylinders. We used the brake pedal pumping method till clean fluid ran out each bleed cock. My buddy went clockwise around the car starting at rear right wheel. I've never had any problem with brakes on this car. (95, 3.8L 157K mi)

Karl.

[DRW1000]

Thanks Coach

[frostie]

I've got the same codes as steve_o. Has anyone figured out the problem yet?

[hueroloco]

Steve-O, try this:
1. Since all the codes are for circuit faults, start with checking for power and ground at the ABS controller/module assembly. Yellow/Light Green (Y/LG) and Light Blue/Pink (LB/PK) must be B+ at all times. Red/Black (R/BK) must be B+ with the key on and Black ground wires must read 0.1v or less at all times.
2.If all OK, replace the ABS assembly

[gbic1]

Originally Posted by steve_o

I have a '99 3.8L and had my ABS error codes read today.

C1185 Power Relay Output Circuit Failure
C1198 LF Isolation Valve Circuit Failure
C1210 RF Dump Valve Circuit Failure
C1214 RF Isolation Valve Circuit Failure
C1242 LR Dump Valve Circuit Failure
C1246 RR Dump Valve Circuit Failure
C1250 LR Isolation Valve Circuit Failure
C1254 RR Isolation Valve Circuit Failure

I think this set of ABS failures set off these traction failures

C1404 RF Traction Control Valve Circuit Failures
C1410 LF Traction Control Valve Circuit Failures

The mechanic who read these was too busy to actually diagnose the issues ($$$).

Does anyone have any ideas what this all might mean?

Steve

Steve, Did you get yours fixed? I have a 99 doing the same thing. codes 1185,1198,1194,1254,1246,1250,1242,1214,1210
Pulling my hair out looking at these wiring diagrams.

[steve_o]

I am sorry to say that I have not done anything.

This van is not my daily mode of transportation so it has been easy to ignore.

I feel a little overwhelmed and am concerned about the cost.

What does a replacement ABS module cost?

[frostie]

Originally Posted by steve_o

I am sorry to say that I have not done anything.

This van is not my daily mode of transportation so it has been easy to ignore.

I feel a little overwhelmed and am concerned about the cost.

What does a replacement ABS module cost?

It is about $450 (part # XF2Z-2B373-BB) from fordparts.com

[gbic1]

frostie did that fix yours?

[frostie]

Originally Posted by gbic1

frostie did that fix yours?

Like Steve_o, I have not had time yet to get it fixed. I bought the module off Ebay, but you need to go to a Ford dealer to have it installed since they must read the settings off the current controller and program your new one. I just found out that Alldata has a TSB for this problem, so will probably get hold of the TSB before I try anything else.