Please tell me why did it have to happened to me? My new turbo isnt so.......

[gthompson97]

if you ran it too long without oil you might have fucked up the engine too. i would pull off the pan and the rod caps and look at some of the bearings just to make sure. running a car with no oil is probably the worst thing you can possibly do and it will take out the bearings so fast it's not even funny. your descriptions of it sounding so loud and continually going slower sound like the symptoms i had when the head was starved of oil basically melting the camshafts to the head and melting the rod bearings to the rod and crank, busting the rod caps and ruining the rod and crank. you might want to pull off the valve cover and take a look at the camshaft lobes to make sure they're not fucked either. good luck and i hope everything else goes well for ya.

[george536]

nah i didnt ran it for long without oil. Im driving my car around right now fine. I just cant hit boost. Basically drivin a regular 2.0 4banger. so it kinda sucks not going fast.

[dsmodder]

some install kits like sbr and rre dont come wiht new returnlines. i have a big16g ready to put on but im deciding whether to use the 1g oil return line or hte 2g and mod it.

[guitarXgeek]

Originally Posted by dsmodder

some install kits like sbr and rre dont come wiht new returnlines. i have a big16g ready to put on but im deciding whether to use the 1g oil return line or hte 2g and mod it.

Just use the stock 2g return line. You'll have to file the bolt holes closer together, but it will work fine.

[kjewer1]

That guy would have to be on drugs to give you a new turbo. They will never cover a turbo with a bollixed compressor or turbine wheel, since that always means something went through it. If the tips are folded over it could be from shaft play, and thats a little different. Post a pic and I can take a stab at it. But getting a turbo warrantied is almost impossible. And thats because 99.99% of the time its not the turbos fault. Garret busts out something like 10,000 turbos a week. The failure rates HAVE to be extremely low when produciton volume is that high. But I'm rambling again.

In this case it was definitely installer error. So lets hope the guy inst that knowledgeable, is in a really generous mood (maybe he just won the lottery), or wants to drum up some good word of mouth. I can see why he doesnt want you to say anything, because that turbo is costing him a good bit more than 250 bucks. Profit margin on 16Gs is very small these days But if you score a new turbo for 250 that would be beyond my wildest hopes and dreams.

I'm still inclined to think something went through the turbo if the wheel is banged up. Just blowing the seals out is something that he could fix for less than 250, but replacing wheels is out of the question, the cost to do it is more than he would ever get out of the turbo.

Turning a 16g into a 20g is not very cost effective either. Not only fo you have to pay for a rebuild kit, 20g compressor wheel, and rebalancing, but you have to have the compressor housing cut for a 2g wheel by a competent turbo machine shop, or buy a housing already profiled for that wheel. Again, expensive. The machine work is typically 70 bucks (and you are left with an expensive housing that is still too small for a 20g) and a new housing is over 100.

I'll never modify a 2g return line again. That took longer than all of the rest of the install combined. Plus I can get 1g return lines for free, or 5-10 bucks at most if the person is a cheap bastard, locally.

At any rate, sucks that it had to go this way, but I'll bet its one mistake you never make again This is how we learn. Buy parts, fuck them up, learn lesson the hard way. My DSM education has been very expensive

[george536]

So you think theres still something in there flying around? Im driving the car right now abd its fine nothing weird, except no boost and that crazy whinning noise when you try to hit boost. What do you think i should check before i put the new one on? i dont want to mess up another one

[CBURKE]

Well i remeber when i got my Big 16g (750.00). I was so happy to get it i put it on but did not have the oil line kit, so i made my own banjo bolt. Well come to find out the bolt did not seal all the way and i guess it was not getting the oil it needed and after about a week and a sword fight sound coming from under the hood it snaped in half. One week for $750.00, never even got to boost it. So i know how you feel. Now i'm on a 14b woohoo. You may wanna pore your oil into something, go to the store and get a stick magnet and wish it around in the pan. This will tell you if any metal got in. Mine was full of it.

[dsmodder]

so 1g oil return lines bolt right up to 2gs?

[91 Eclipse]

sorry about your car hope you get it up and running with a turbo soon good luck

[kjewer1]

Originally Posted by dsmodder

so 1g oil return lines bolt right up to 2gs?

Yes.

Whatever may have hit the blades (still need pics to verify this) may have goen through. The next most likely place to get caught is in the IC.

[dsmodder]

kevin wanna sell me a 1g return line via paypal?

[george536]

Heres the messed up turbo

Heres the new one i put on. All Bymyself Im so proud of myself

it has the gt housing though, is there really a difference between performance wise?

And heres my baby

[CBURKE]

Originally Posted by dsmodder

kevin wanna sell me a 1g return line via paypal?

you are gonna need the banjo bolt also. You can just go to mitsu dealer and pic one up. There only like $20-$25.00 for one

[CBURKE]

Did you ck for metal in the oil?

[kjewer1]

Something solid definitely seems to have gone through that turbo. Tools, hardware, who knows.

There is no banjo bolt on an oil return line. I can check the garage for an extra, but to be honest I Wouldnt feel comfortable charging more than about 10 bucks for it, and with my schedule its hardly worth it to take the time to ship it. I'm sure you can find one more local, there is a good sized DSM community in your area.