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#16
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Re: Haven't been on here for a long time...but i'm back...plus i got my vr-4 yesterday.
Hmmm...now i'm alittle confused.
http://www.3sxperformance.com/exhaust-tt.asp There is says "Note: You now can get the REAR pre-cat eliminator with out buying the pair! See the DN REAR Pre-Cat Eliminator listed below..." that means i only need the rear pre-cat. But if you look at the stillen downpipe the piping doesn't go all the way up to the turbo. So wouldn't you still need a front pre-cat? They dont make anything like that. What you need is a pre-cat the just drops down with out cruving like the front pre-car for the pre-cat on the stillen downpipe. Make something that looks just like the DN rear pre-cat but fits the front. Can someone help me out here lol? I dont have emissions btw. I just want to get new pre-cats and a stillen downpipe. HELP ME PLEASE. Nate.
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dsm97gsx is now youngmanvr4. 94 vr-4 with 58k. Mods: K&N FIPK, HKS EVC IV, HKS boost gauge, testpipe, EGR by-passed. Sound: Profile Chrome and Gold amplifier (200W) and (2) 10" Red Cone Sony Xplod Subs. Coming soon: Stillen downpipe, DN rear pre-cat, Defi boost and EGT gauge's with control unit on A-pillar.
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#17
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Re: Haven't been on here for a long time...but i'm back...plus i got my vr-4 yesterday.
Yea the stillen down pipe dosnt look like it'll work unless you use the stock precat. I say get the stillen and the rear precat and just gut your front precat, that'll let it flow well.
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1995 3000GT VR-4 Installed: ESP front precat eliminating downpipe, test pipe, RF-1008 K&N, Dejon tool Y pipe, 1G DSM BOV, MSD wires, Guted rear pre cat, ISSPRO EV Marine boost gauge, IPO MBC, EGR blockoffs, Palm m515 dataloger setup, NGK iridium plugs, SPEC stage II clutch 500ft/lb, 5300k HID plug and play setup. Soon:Topline Engineering ground wires. |
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#18
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That is one sweet looking ride
Well done!As for changing your name. PM Aves911 and ask if he can do it for you. Only an Admin can do it (Igor has give Aves most of the day to day admin duties on the site).
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Resistance Is Futile (If < 1ohm) |
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#19
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Re: Haven't been on here for a long time...but i'm back...plus i got my vr-4 yesterday.
What if i got the ATR downpipe with the DN pair (front and rear) pre-cats? That would be even better wouldn't it? It may cost more but then i would have a new downpipe and new front and rear pre-cats. I may do that.
Thanks Yogs. I'll pm Aves911.
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dsm97gsx is now youngmanvr4. 94 vr-4 with 58k. Mods: K&N FIPK, HKS EVC IV, HKS boost gauge, testpipe, EGR by-passed. Sound: Profile Chrome and Gold amplifier (200W) and (2) 10" Red Cone Sony Xplod Subs. Coming soon: Stillen downpipe, DN rear pre-cat, Defi boost and EGT gauge's with control unit on A-pillar.
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#20
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Re: Haven't been on here for a long time...but i'm back...plus i got my vr-4 yesterday.
Ohh I thought you wanted the stillen, anyways yea that looks like it would work to me. And since you don't have emissions (damn you so lucky) that would be a great choice.
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1995 3000GT VR-4 Installed: ESP front precat eliminating downpipe, test pipe, RF-1008 K&N, Dejon tool Y pipe, 1G DSM BOV, MSD wires, Guted rear pre cat, ISSPRO EV Marine boost gauge, IPO MBC, EGR blockoffs, Palm m515 dataloger setup, NGK iridium plugs, SPEC stage II clutch 500ft/lb, 5300k HID plug and play setup. Soon:Topline Engineering ground wires. |
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#21
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Re: Haven't been on here for a long time...but i'm back...plus i got my vr-4 yesterday.
Well i do want the stillen downpipe. But i also sorta want to have a new front pre-cat (or something that looks that nice) to match the rear even tho you'll never see the rear one. But you'd still say get the stillen with the DN rear pre-cat and gut the front pre-cat?
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dsm97gsx is now youngmanvr4. 94 vr-4 with 58k. Mods: K&N FIPK, HKS EVC IV, HKS boost gauge, testpipe, EGR by-passed. Sound: Profile Chrome and Gold amplifier (200W) and (2) 10" Red Cone Sony Xplod Subs. Coming soon: Stillen downpipe, DN rear pre-cat, Defi boost and EGT gauge's with control unit on A-pillar.
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#22
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Re: Haven't been on here for a long time...but i'm back...plus i got my vr-4 yesterday.
Igovert500: I think i'll still get the Greddy type-s BOV...but just like you said...it need to be relocated. So i went to www.stealth316.com and looked it up there. And i just want to make sure i'm right. When i buy the BOV from 3sx it comes with adapter flange. Is that the piece i need to relocat it? If not, what do i have to do to relocat it?
http://www.3sxperformance.com/bovs.asp
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dsm97gsx is now youngmanvr4. 94 vr-4 with 58k. Mods: K&N FIPK, HKS EVC IV, HKS boost gauge, testpipe, EGR by-passed. Sound: Profile Chrome and Gold amplifier (200W) and (2) 10" Red Cone Sony Xplod Subs. Coming soon: Stillen downpipe, DN rear pre-cat, Defi boost and EGT gauge's with control unit on A-pillar.
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#23
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Re: Haven't been on here for a long time...but i'm back...plus i got my vr-4 yesterday.
OK, let's clarify things one at a time.
The stillen downpipe eliminates the the stock downpipe, main cat, and front precat...meaning it takes the place of all 3. Now that means you will still have the rear precat. Now the piece you are talking about from DN, is a pre-cat eliminator. It is a piece of metal that takes the place of the remaining precats. A precat eliminator is mildly better than simply gutting the precat. The difference is that gutting it is free, while the eliminator is $280. So many opt towards gutting the one precat. There is NO such thing as new precats...there are no aftermarket precats. You either have the stock ones, or you have eliminators. Precats help emissions, eliminators are hollow pipes that do nothing. I suggest you read the downpipe comparison on John Monnin's website, a link is provided in the FAQ. That will help you decide between ATR and Stillen. Stillen is reported to have problems with fitment sometimes. Also it is said to not work with the precat eliminators due to fitment, so if you get the Stillen, your options will most likely be only to gut the rear precat. Whereas the ATR, you can use both DN eliminators. Also, it is your car...but why do you care about the precats look...their under your car...the only person who will ever comment on how nice and polished they look will be the guy at jiffylube who is changing your oil...kinda pointless if you ask me(just my .02). Lastly, you asked about relocating the bov, no the 3sx adapter is not the relocator. Here is the thread that explains the relocating: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...ghlight=greddy If you need further help, let me know.
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96 3000gt vr4 -K&N FIPK -Proboost mbc -Cusco front + rear strut bars -Greddy type-s -ATR downpipe -no cats -15Gs, 3sx aluminum pulley, FMIC, SAFC, walboro pump, EVO 560ccs, and Meth Injection Kit all waiting to go in shortly. Your 1996 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 is the 92nd out of the 315 that were made that year. Only 21 of which are exactly identical. |
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#24
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You lucky son of a bitch hah. Best VR-4 I've found around here is $14,000 with 69,000 miles on it. Yeah, it has 450 HP at the crank (lil better than 320), but still...I can't afford it.
Congrats man, that is one sweet looking ride. |
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#25
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Re: Haven't been on here for a long time...but i'm back...plus i got my vr-4 yesterday.
Sorry...when i said new pre-cats i ment pre-cat eliminator.
I dont want to have the fitting problems with the Stillen but i dont like it that the ATR doesn't have a flex section. If i got the ATR i would get the DN pre-cat eliminator (front and rear) and if i got the Stillen i would get the DN pre-cat eliminator (rear only) and gut the front pre-cat. The Stillen will be cheapier in the long run and my last longer. But the ATR may be more of what i'm looking for. The part i dont understand is if the Stillen eliminates the front pre-cat then what do you use for the front pre-cat. The only thing i can think of is to cut the front pre-cat to make it fit the Stillen downpipe. Help please me understand this. I see that you said RobBeck on 3si (one of my good friends on there) sells a relocation kit? Will it look nicer then doing what you did? Since 3si.org is down right now i cant look at the link posted or ask Rob about it. But as soon as its back up and running i will look at it.
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dsm97gsx is now youngmanvr4. 94 vr-4 with 58k. Mods: K&N FIPK, HKS EVC IV, HKS boost gauge, testpipe, EGR by-passed. Sound: Profile Chrome and Gold amplifier (200W) and (2) 10" Red Cone Sony Xplod Subs. Coming soon: Stillen downpipe, DN rear pre-cat, Defi boost and EGT gauge's with control unit on A-pillar.
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#26
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Re: Haven't been on here for a long time...but i'm back...plus i got my vr-4 yesterday.
I havn't seen pics of robbeck's relocation kit, but I have heard he does quality work. Mine looks fine, I'll post some pics as soon as I get a chance...hmm I should go steal my aunts digital cam...I honestly think mine looks stock enough...except for the whole purple piece of metal on the BOV...but that was Greddy's design...not mine.
As far as the Stillen downpipe, you don't need ANYTHING to make it fit on the front precat...the stillen pipe literally takes the place of the front precat and the main cat...it is longer than the stock, you don't need to cut any of the front precat down, or get any extra parts or anything...simply unbolt and remove the front precat, and the Stillen downpipe will bolt into the same place that the precat was...I don't really know how to explain it any better, but I think your confusion is that you are mis-judging it visually, but trust me, you don't need anything other than the Stillen downpipe. As far as fitment issues, I'm talking a tiny 2mm, some people have had trouble with bolts not lining up perfectly...just 2mm off. Now as far as ATR not having flex sections...yes this can be viewed as a short coming, but also consider this..it is welded REALLY well. Our cars have pretty strong motor mounts, if you keep an eye on them, and don't let them wear out, you will never have any problems. Flex sections in our stock downpipes are what start leaking first...so while they are a good thing, they can also be bad...they will be the first place a downpipe starts to leak. They are there to prevent welds from breaking, in the event that your motor mounts get worn out. I'm going with the ATR pretty soon, and I don't mind that it doesn't have flex sections...but to each his own, and it's a decision you have to make...I SERIOUSLY suggest you read John Monnin's downpipe comparison if you haven't already. It is some of the best information out there to assist you in making your decision.
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96 3000gt vr4 -K&N FIPK -Proboost mbc -Cusco front + rear strut bars -Greddy type-s -ATR downpipe -no cats -15Gs, 3sx aluminum pulley, FMIC, SAFC, walboro pump, EVO 560ccs, and Meth Injection Kit all waiting to go in shortly. Your 1996 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 is the 92nd out of the 315 that were made that year. Only 21 of which are exactly identical. |
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#27
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Nice catch on the car. Good luck with it. 3SI is a good place to learn how to work on your own car. Not to mention working on my own car has saved me tons of $$$. Have fun with the car, but not to much fun.
SJ
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#28
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Re: Haven't been on here for a long time...but i'm back...plus i got my vr-4 yesterday.
Ok...i get it now. Thanks Igovert500!
I just need to take a look under my vr-4 and see what would happen if i took the front pre-cat off. Then eveything will make even more sence.
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dsm97gsx is now youngmanvr4. 94 vr-4 with 58k. Mods: K&N FIPK, HKS EVC IV, HKS boost gauge, testpipe, EGR by-passed. Sound: Profile Chrome and Gold amplifier (200W) and (2) 10" Red Cone Sony Xplod Subs. Coming soon: Stillen downpipe, DN rear pre-cat, Defi boost and EGT gauge's with control unit on A-pillar.
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#29
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Re: Haven't been on here for a long time...but i'm back...plus i got my vr-4 yesterday.
Dsm, I found some pics that will help you see it.
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/3S/Mod...tDP/index.html Scroll to the bottom and there are 3 pictures with a Stillen downpipe laying next to a stock downpipe. The stock downpipe still has the front precat attached to it...that bubble thing attached to the far left side of the stock downpipe...that is the front precat. See how the stillen downpipe is longer and it takes the place of the original downpipe, main cat and front precat.
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96 3000gt vr4 -K&N FIPK -Proboost mbc -Cusco front + rear strut bars -Greddy type-s -ATR downpipe -no cats -15Gs, 3sx aluminum pulley, FMIC, SAFC, walboro pump, EVO 560ccs, and Meth Injection Kit all waiting to go in shortly. Your 1996 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 is the 92nd out of the 315 that were made that year. Only 21 of which are exactly identical. |
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#30
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Re: Haven't been on here for a long time...but i'm back...plus i got my vr-4 yesterday.
I under stood how the Stillen downpipe takes the place of the stock downpipe, main cat but i didn't understand how the front pre-cat worked. I understand it how. Thanks Igovert500
__________________
dsm97gsx is now youngmanvr4. 94 vr-4 with 58k. Mods: K&N FIPK, HKS EVC IV, HKS boost gauge, testpipe, EGR by-passed. Sound: Profile Chrome and Gold amplifier (200W) and (2) 10" Red Cone Sony Xplod Subs. Coming soon: Stillen downpipe, DN rear pre-cat, Defi boost and EGT gauge's with control unit on A-pillar.
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