Gas in my oil.... any ideas on a fix... I have tried numerous things... no luck

[pind]

clear enough, thanks. I have seen a lot of people line the gaps up, so I thought I would check. It is a common problem.

I would not go for the heat and rings theory, unless the ring gap is big enough to drive a bus through. I would however go for gas leaking past the rings through the gaps. It does happen.
You are bang on with the washing problem though, it will eventually lead to dry cylinder walls, causing galling and scoring, and that is just uncool.

definitely go for adjusting your fuel pressure and see if that seems to stop the problem, if not, then back to the drawing board.

[chatterx]

well got the fuel adjusted 13lbs lower and installed my manual boost controller. took it our for a drive and it seemed to have a bit more power. but on the way home the car just died. luckily i could coast into my driveway. tried to start it.... nothing its like the car doesnt have a battery in it. I tried a different battery out my other car and nope... headlights wont come on or when I turn the key over you cant hear the fuel pump kick on or anything electrical dont work...

I checked my grounds all is good there.

I guess its like they say if it aint one thing its the other.

[pind]

Dude, you must know Murphy on a first name basis. In fact, he probably calls you.... collect.

somewhere in the car, there has to be a main power fuse. Try and find it, chances are it is hooped.

I know one of the guys here that races, had a similar shut down problem, but his was a smoked computer unit. I don't think it would be that drastic with yours. He was mating an older engine to a newer computer, in a mid year car, I think it was something about an 84 or 5 turbo engine, 86 car, 88 computer and harness, or something like that. total gong show.

I will dig in to his car tomorrow if I get a chance, and see what has been done there.

[BleedDodge]

I took a computer out of a turbo Daytona and put it in my Turismo, works perfect. The car wouldn't start without one, and as soon as I plugged that thing in, it fired right up...

[chatterx]

well fellers I think i found it. after claning the terminals and battery posts, i hooked the positive up and then went to hook the negative up and the negative started popping and arcing real bad. then I saw some smoke come up from under the intake... took my starter wires off and found this

[pind]

Oh Yeah, you found it alright. so back to the original problem now.

Check your oil for cross contamination as usual. then if you can, put some miles on it under normal driving conditions, and see what happens.

[chatterx]

well I cant drive it till I get a new one of those cables, unfortunately this is a dealer item only. i hooked the battery back up and everything worked, although I turned the ignition on and couldnt hear the fuel pump kick on. But I think these wires have to be hooked up for it to kick on though

[BleedDodge]

I'm sorry to hear about all these problems. I'd be banging my head into the wall at this point. I guess it's all part of the hobby, though. Someday you'll be wasting those Mustangs, and everything will be better...

[chatterx]

Actually there is a few holes in the wall LOL. Thats one reason I got this car is because I heard they can do it, but when I got it it really grew on me.

[slantsixness]

Chatterx,
Sorry I'm a little late finding your post but,

Your fuel pressure may still be too high. Watch out! Too much fuel and too little cam + 10lbs of boost...= crankcase explosion. Not a pretty sight. (Been there, picked up the pieces, walked home....)

Your starter wires may not be your only trouble. Sounds like you blew a fuse link too (near the ECM in the wire harness).
You don't have to go to a dealer either for them, unless you want them molded together...

Your starter may be bad, too (shorted) check first!

Oh yeah. The magic number for me has been 40lbs, not 45. Reason is: running out of air (thusly running richer) at higher RPM. bad news for Turbos. I don't run anything close to stock setups anymore, but 40 was the safe rule when I played that game.
Try it, what could hurt?!

good luck,

Slantsixness

[chatterx]

well good news on the starter situation is i got a cable from the junkyard (you should see this one i got, its WWWAAAAYYYY better made than my old one). hooked it up and the car fired right up. everything worked too.

Right now I am running 15lbs of boost. I will try turning it down to 40lbs if i am still getting gas in the oil after turning it down to 45lbs

I also purchased a set of stock injectors that came out of a 88 t2 motor. If turning it down to 40lbs does not help, these will be my last resort.

thanx for the suggestions and i will keep you all posted

[chatterx]

well I changed the oil and turned my fuel pressure down to 40lbs static. Car ran fine, heck when I started it up it had about 75 - 80 lbs of pressure but gradually went down to 15 - 20 lbs after the car warmed up but after driving for about 10 miles when I would push in the clutch and the car would idle down to about 700 rpm and I would lose all oil pressure, On BOTH factory and mechanical guage. It seem like the oil is getting too hot for some reason, the car is not overheating whatsoever. Oil smells kinda funny, cant quite say its gas or burnt.

One question what is the purpose of that check valve looking thing your oil filter screws on?? and can they go bad, and if so would it cause low oil pressure problems??

Also when I shut the car off for about 5 - 10 minutes its like the top end loses its lubrication and has to reprime

at 2000 rpm I am getting 12.5 - 14 pounds of pressure when the car has been running for a bit

[chatterx]

hmmmmmmmmmm, i just found this!!! notice the blockage on the outer outlet (fuel filter)

[BleedDodge]

How was the car even running like that?

[chatterx]

i dunno, but that filter was only a year and half old if that. Hmmm maybe I wont need to put this other set of injectors i bought in now lol