Nos

[kenwood guy]

but what about smaller shots you can stiil leave it stock right??

[Killer Quad]

ehh ya but it will shorten the life of everything, and make sure the rev's are up low rpms will blow it to itty bitty pieces been there done that

[Rod&Custom]

Wow, this thread seems kind of off. Can american muscle take nitrous oxide? YES. These V8's can take it before the little econo 4 bangers can, so if they can take it, then the V8's are even better. A lot of people are running nitrous nowadays. There are Model A's and deuce coupes running nitrous. Most "older" cars as you say it have had rebuilt engines/trannys anyway, so why not? Any car can take about a 50 hp shot(depending on previous abuse). When going above about a 100 shot of nitrous you will need new internals. This includes forged crank, forged hyperautic pistons, and forged I-beam rods. If you don't take precautions, and even sometimes if you do, you will fry your engine within a couple of shots. Nitrous can be harmful, but is also efficient and is a sensible power adder if used correctly. Problem being not many people use it sensibly(i.e. ricers). Many of the "tuners" don't go to these measures, later wondering why all 4 rods went through their block. So to ensure you aren't one of these, beef up your motor PLEASE!. Hope this helps you understand a little more about nitrous, and precautions for power adders in general.

[Stroked it]

You can run small amounts of NOS safely, depending on your engine. a stock 350 will make an easy 100-150hp all day long w/o a rebuild. as far as rice gose im not sure due to how sensitive everything is.

[Ultimate X]

man everyones into nitrous these days

i was at circuit city the day before and they had cans of nos in their car department

in a year or 2 they prolly have in toys r us for thos kiddie cars

[Cryo boy]

back on topic, you will have to build a forged motor if you are gonna get serious, forged crank, rods, 4 bolt splayed caps, forged pistons, big feul system...

[tricksaturnsc2]

No, you don't need to rebuild everything. If you want to use a conservative 50hp kit, you're fine.

A wet system is much less likely to blow an engine (vs a dry system).

A window controller ensures that the nos can only be engauged at certain rpm's. This also prevents the engine from being blown.

And a progressive controller ensures the nos is engauged at a slower rate, providing a lot less stress on the engine / drivetrain. Let's say 10 shot at 3k rpm's, 20 at 4000, 35 at 5000, 50 at 6000 & 75 at 7000.

Retarding the timing, using iridium plugs w/ a smaller gap & having a lower compression ratio also help.

I have an msd ignition that retards the timing based on rpm's & it doesn't start retarding the rpm where nos kicks in (my cams like top end retarded anyways).

[Ultimate X]

why would u want nos on an s2000?

[tricksaturnsc2]

I'm not putting nos on my s2000, i was answering the original question (my s2k is supercharged).

[Zgringo]

Boy the question is like a blank check. First off different engines have different amounts of strenth, meaning some are stronger stock than others.
I going to talk about 2 engines I know very well and from there you'll have to makeup your mind. The engines I know are the Ford 351C and 429-460 SuperCobra Jets and the VG30DE anTT and the VH45DE engines

The VG an VH engines have very strong cranks and rods so only need ARP rod and main bearing cap bolts and studs and billet pistons to make a bullet proof bottom end.
The Fords on the other hand aren't as strong and need after market rods and pistons to handle high loads a blower and nitrous well develop.
I would "O" ring the heads so not to blow the head gaskets the pressure a blower and nitrous can develop.
Having done this your just about ready to go just about anywhere you want with the engine.
If your taking it to the limits, things like modifying the oil system, blue printing the engine, porting the heads are sure ways of making more power and adding to the life of the engine.
I have two hotties. One a Pro Import and the other Pro street and a daily driver which well talk about.
The difference in these two car is night an day, but one runs in the 7's and the other in the 10's.
My street car has a stock crank and rods with ARP rod bolts and ARP studs in the mains and heads. The heads have been "O" ringed as I run a Whipple blower at 20+ boost and a dual shot of nitrous 75 and 150+. The transmission has been beefed up and the torque convertor has a 5,500 stall.
To keep everything from coming unglued I use a water/alky injection system to cool my inlet temp. down from my blower, and have a dual ECU (computer) connected to a laptop to control my fuel/air mixture and timing. The cams, valve springs, exhaust were needed to develop the power I make to reach the speeds I run in the time I run the !/4.
For what you asked you'll need to do some research on the engine you plan to use and go from there.
Hope I've been alittle help. The web site listed below, I'm #3. Look at some of my specs. and if you have any questions it lists my email address or continue this thread.

Albert

http://www.dragtimes.com/Nissan--300ZX-Drag-Racing.html