Allright gentleman I have a good one for ya.

[kc5689]

Nobody has a solid solution or anything? I swear it is the most annoying problem.....

[bottlejockey]

I had the same problem after I changed my clutch. The tach would quick working and the check engine light would come on. I ended up putting the starter ground back on in the wrong spot. Before I realized what I had did my car stopped starting. It was really weird because it started all day, then after work it wouldn't start. I put the ground wire on the right spot and everything worked fine. Don't know if it has anything to do with your problem, but my car had the same problem.

[J-Rat]

YOU dont need a code puller to scan your codes on a series 5 car (neither for an S4).

There is a diagnostic connector inside your engine bay that you ground, and it gives you the codes... Let me see if I can find the directions...

Here we go:
If your check engine light is coming on at idle you need to find out what it is telling you.

To do so for RX-7's from 1989 on, (with the engine off but fully warmed up) find the single green wire in the wiring harness just in front of the left front suspension tower, near the front ignition coil.

Ground the connector on this wire (the wire will be hanging free, without its connector hooked to another wire) on the chassis, using a jumper wire, etc.

Sit in the car and turn the ignition switch on WITHOUT STARTING THE CAR. Immediately watch the check engine light. If everything is OK, it will not light. If it starts flashing, count the flashes. It may stop flashing for a couple of seconds, then start again. Each of those series of flashes is for a separate engine fault code. Multiple codes will display in order from low number to high.

Have a paper and pen handy, and write them all down. To check again, turn the ignition off and then back on. It will repeat the cycle.

Identify the first (tens) and second (ones) digits of each code as follows: The first (tens) digit will display (flash) for about one second for each count, with a one-half second pause between counts. For example, if the first (tens) digit is three, there will be three separate one second long flashes, separated between by one-half second pauses.

There is then a 1.6 second pause between the last flash of the first digit and the beginning of the second (ones) digit.

The second (ones) digit counts flash for only one-half second each, with pauses of one-half second between them. For example, if the second (ones) digit is seven, then there will be seven flashes of one-half second, separated by pauses of one-half second.

In this example, the displayed code will thus be "37".

The system will then pause for four seconds before proceeding to the next code, if any.

To clear the stored codes from memory, disconnect the negative battery cable, then wait for 5 seconds. It is useful to do so even when you have just retrieved the codes, but not fixed anything yet, to be certain the codes (problems) persist. Stored codes could represent several different problems that have arisen at different times. Just drive the car a bit, and see which codes persist.

Obviously, once things are fixed, you need to clear the codes a final time to be certain it is in fact fixed, and to know that any new stored codes have occured after the fix.

Mazda RX-7 codes (from Haynes Computer Codes Manual #10205) are as follows:

1 Ignition coil (trailing side)
2 Crank position NE sensor
3 Crank position G sensor
5 Knock sensor
8 Airflow meter (AFM)
9 Water thermosensor
10 Intake air thermosensor (AFM)
11 Intake air thermosensor (engine)
12 Throttle sensor - full range
13 Pressure sensor - intake manifold
14 Atmospheric pressure sensor (built in ECU)
15 oxygen sensor
17 Feedback system for O2 sensor
18 Throttle sensor - narrow range
20 Metering oil pump position sensor
23 Fuel thermosensor
25 Solenoid valve - pressure regulator control
26 metering oil pump stepper motor
27 Metering oil pump
28 Solenoid valve - EGR
29 Solenoid valve - EGR vent
30 Solenoid valve - split air bypass
31 solenoid valve - relief 1
32 Solenoid valve - switching
33 Solenoid valve - port air bypass
34 Solenoid valve -idle speed control (BAC)
37 Metering oil pump
38 Solenoid valve - accelerated warmup system and air supply valve
39 Solenoid valve - relief 2
40 Solenoid valve - purge control (auxilary port valve)
41 Solenoid valve - variable dynamic effect intake (VDI)
42 Solenoid valve - turbo precontrol
43 Solenoid valve - wastegate control
44 Solenoid valve - turbo control
45 Solenoid valve - charge control
46 Solenoid valve - charge relief control
50 Solenoid valve - double throttle control
51 Fuel pump relay
54 Air pump relay
65 Air conditioning signal
71 Injector - front secondary
73 Injector - rear secondary
76 Slip lockup signal
77 Torque reduced signal


Use the codes to direct you in fixing the car. Also remember that disconnected hoses, misrouted vacuum lines, or internal engine problems can be present without causing a code.

[kc5689]

Originally Posted by bottlejockey

I had the same problem after I changed my clutch. The tach would quick working and the check engine light would come on. I ended up putting the starter ground back on in the wrong spot. Before I realized what I had did my car stopped starting. It was really weird because it started all day, then after work it wouldn't start. I put the ground wire on the right spot and everything worked fine. Don't know if it has anything to do with your problem, but my car had the same problem.

Thanks bottle

[kc5689]

Originally Posted by J-Rat

YOU dont need a code puller to scan your codes on a series 5 car (neither for an S4).

There is a diagnostic connector inside your engine bay that you ground, and it gives you the codes... Let me see if I can find the directions...

Here we go:
If your check engine light is coming on at idle you need to find out what it is telling you.

To do so for RX-7's from 1989 on, (with the engine off but fully warmed up) find the single green wire in the wiring harness just in front of the left front suspension tower, near the front ignition coil.

Ground the connector on this wire (the wire will be hanging free, without its connector hooked to another wire) on the chassis, using a jumper wire, etc.

Sit in the car and turn the ignition switch on WITHOUT STARTING THE CAR. Immediately watch the check engine light. If everything is OK, it will not light. If it starts flashing, count the flashes. It may stop flashing for a couple of seconds, then start again. Each of those series of flashes is for a separate engine fault code. Multiple codes will display in order from low number to high.

Have a paper and pen handy, and write them all down. To check again, turn the ignition off and then back on. It will repeat the cycle.

Identify the first (tens) and second (ones) digits of each code as follows: The first (tens) digit will display (flash) for about one second for each count, with a one-half second pause between counts. For example, if the first (tens) digit is three, there will be three separate one second long flashes, separated between by one-half second pauses.

There is then a 1.6 second pause between the last flash of the first digit and the beginning of the second (ones) digit.

The second (ones) digit counts flash for only one-half second each, with pauses of one-half second between them. For example, if the second (ones) digit is seven, then there will be seven flashes of one-half second, separated by pauses of one-half second.

In this example, the displayed code will thus be "37".

The system will then pause for four seconds before proceeding to the next code, if any.

To clear the stored codes from memory, disconnect the negative battery cable, then wait for 5 seconds. It is useful to do so even when you have just retrieved the codes, but not fixed anything yet, to be certain the codes (problems) persist. Stored codes could represent several different problems that have arisen at different times. Just drive the car a bit, and see which codes persist.

Obviously, once things are fixed, you need to clear the codes a final time to be certain it is in fact fixed, and to know that any new stored codes have occured after the fix.

Mazda RX-7 codes (from Haynes Computer Codes Manual #10205) are as follows:

1 Ignition coil (trailing side)
2 Crank position NE sensor
3 Crank position G sensor
5 Knock sensor
8 Airflow meter (AFM)
9 Water thermosensor
10 Intake air thermosensor (AFM)
11 Intake air thermosensor (engine)
12 Throttle sensor - full range
13 Pressure sensor - intake manifold
14 Atmospheric pressure sensor (built in ECU)
15 oxygen sensor
17 Feedback system for O2 sensor
18 Throttle sensor - narrow range
20 Metering oil pump position sensor
23 Fuel thermosensor
25 Solenoid valve - pressure regulator control
26 metering oil pump stepper motor
27 Metering oil pump
28 Solenoid valve - EGR
29 Solenoid valve - EGR vent
30 Solenoid valve - split air bypass
31 solenoid valve - relief 1
32 Solenoid valve - switching
33 Solenoid valve - port air bypass
34 Solenoid valve -idle speed control (BAC)
37 Metering oil pump
38 Solenoid valve - accelerated warmup system and air supply valve
39 Solenoid valve - relief 2
40 Solenoid valve - purge control (auxilary port valve)
41 Solenoid valve - variable dynamic effect intake (VDI)
42 Solenoid valve - turbo precontrol
43 Solenoid valve - wastegate control
44 Solenoid valve - turbo control
45 Solenoid valve - charge control
46 Solenoid valve - charge relief control
50 Solenoid valve - double throttle control
51 Fuel pump relay
54 Air pump relay
65 Air conditioning signal
71 Injector - front secondary
73 Injector - rear secondary
76 Slip lockup signal
77 Torque reduced signal


Use the codes to direct you in fixing the car. Also remember that disconnected hoses, misrouted vacuum lines, or internal engine problems can be present without causing a code.

WOW!! You are a freaking pimp. You are the man!! I will try it tomorrow I hope I can figure it out. Thanks a lot and I will write you with the results.
KC

[FRIMX]

that is strange have u thought about getting an after market tach. but u shouldnt need a tach cause u should no wen to shift by the sound of the engine

[Soyo]

when you don't have a visible tach and shift at 7k on every shift I'll believe you don't need a tach

normal driving you don't always need a tach but you DO need a tach, plus if you ask me rotaries are harder to know when to shift than a piston engine cuz its basically the same sound from 5k-8k(on my non-turbo atleast)

[kc5689]

Originally Posted by FRIMX

that is strange have u thought about getting an after market tach. but u shouldnt need a tach cause u should no wen to shift by the sound of the engine

Thanks.....of course I can shift by the sound of my engine penis breath....but I still need to to know where my engine speed is at......obviously I can still drive my car...... I was wondering if anybody knew how to fix the problem

[kc5689]

Originally Posted by Soyo

when you don't have a visible tach and shift at 7k on every shift I'll believe you don't need a tach

normal driving you don't always need a tach but you DO need a tach, plus if you ask me rotaries are harder to know when to shift than a piston engine cuz its basically the same sound from 5k-8k(on my non-turbo atleast)

Soyo,
How am I supposed to shift at 7 thousand on every shift if I don't have a Tachometer?

Plus tell me if the that car treve0006 posted sounds the same between 5-8 revolutions per minute! My non turbo definitly sounds differen't between 5-8 especially when I am doing a buck fifty at 7.5 RPM in fourth gear....that is the most retarded thing I have ever heard..."harder to know when to shift"

MAYBE YOU SHOULDN' BE DRIVING A ROTORY DRIVEN CAR THEN!!

COME ON BRO!!

[Soyo]

dude, I wasn't talking to you, I was talking to FRIMX... you just yelled at me for backing you up... what a fagget

and I don't even know who treve0006 is and I don't care about his car... I still don't get why your mad at me for saying you have reason for wanting to fix your tach, I would want it fixed too

[kc5689]

Originally Posted by Soyo

dude, I wasn't talking to you, I was talking to FRIMX... you just yelled at me for backing you up... what a fagget

and I don't even know who treve0006 is and I don't care about his car... I still don't get why your mad at me for saying you have reason for wanting to fix your tach, I would want it fixed too

Sorry Bro misunderstood it's all good!!