suggest turbo

[DeleriousZ]

i trust you duplox

[GWInquisitor14]

So do i man, that manifold seems like a great thing. Someone explain how that \_/ thing is not a merge collector?

[GWInquisitor14]

Just a quick question though, if hes saying his EGT gauge is saying 1300° and that coating will last up to 1200°, how is it gonna last then if your driving under hard conditions? Is that stuff powder coated, cuz then it really doesn't add much of a thickness and its not like a paint, roughly speaking its resin melted into the metal through high electric charge of over 90,000 volts

[GWInquisitor14]

Sorry to post 3 in a row, but i just re read this forum and it started out as one with a guy wanting to know what kinda turbo to get on his car. Id say Garrett t03/t04. Any objections please explain in a good maner. Also, does that coating really help you spool up quicker?

[duplox]

EGTs may intermittantly hit 1300* if you're on the gas, but I'm never at full throttle for very long at all. In less than 10 seconds I'm over a hundred mph, I don't know why I'd ever want to go faster than that on the street. With my car, cops will pull me over for ANY reason, so speeding isn't a wise idea. I find it hard to believe that he has 1300* EGTs cruising. Just imagine what they'd be near his redline on full boost, approaching top speed. Probably over 1600*. I'm sure you all drive different than me, so if you are a very aggressive driver, maybe you should shy away from the 1200* coating. The ONLY time my car sees WOT is perhaps the occasional stoplight, and that only lasts 3 or 4 seconds, or when i'm feelin dangerous on a straightaway. Well and of course the track... but thats under 11 seconds at a time, and i'm running water/alcohol injection there so it further cools the exhaust down, maybe to the point that it doesnt even reach 1200*.
as for high temps helping spool your turbo, I'll quote Corky Bell from his book 'Maximum Boost':
"..a high temperature is able to really kick a turbine up to speed quickly..."
"Heat Retention. Clearly, performance of the turbine is in part determined by the temperature of the exhaust gases. It is reasonable, then, to expend some effort toward getting the exhaust gas from the combustion chamber to the turbine with the least possible temperature loss"
Now that we know that exhaust heat is our turbo's friend, lets look at ceramic... Ceramic is a fantastic insulator. It is used in tile form on the nose of the space shuttle to prevent the heat of reentry from melting everything. If you have a ceramic tile, you can take a blowtorch, hold it on the tile for as long as you want, then take the flame away and grab the tile as fast as you can, it wont burn you. In all practical sense, it does not absorb or transfer heat. Now since this is just a .020" thick aluminum-ceramic coating and not a ceramic tile, it will transfer heat, but it will greatly reduce the ammount of heat transfer.

Here is the difference between a merge collector and a normal collector:
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/0304_merg/
A merge is only worth a few HP over normal on a NA car, and I'd say even less on a turbocharged car.
If you really wanted to, you could easily weld up a a little pyramid shaped thing right in the middle, oversizing it a bit, then go to town with the grinder and make it match up nice to the ports. Honestly, when its going RIGHT into the turbine like that one, I doubt that will make a difference anywhere near worth the effort.
That header there is leaps and bounds ahead of any log type cast iron manifold.

"That pile of crap doesn't even have a merge collector, the welding is rough and horrible, how can you even try and call it a race header."
Most manifolds don't have merge collectors. Few do. The welding is not rough and horrible, what are you talking about there? I never called it a race header.

[GWInquisitor14]

Ya id have to say that welding is pretty good also. with all this talk of ceramics, its made my go find my nots from intro to cermaics i took last semester. Ok when ceramic material is first fired, it needs to get up to 1875° in order to become solid. Then you would fire it again at 2375° in order for it to be at the form all of you know. So that means a clay pot can be heated up to 2300° and not much will happen. If your exhaust is that hot, wow u got some other issues with your car than your manifold. Now i realize this is ceramic-alunimum, i dont quite know what that exactly means but im guess its a compound of clay and alunimun so it probably can handle less than 2300, so at 1300 im pretty sure that coating will be fine and so will your metal. Ya that merge collector could easily be made if you really absolutly had to have it

[killah_xft]

well I'm not too worried about any coatings... manifold is either going to be steel, or cast iron, with a steel downpipe.. tubing for the turbo will be Aluminum, since I like the Idea of my car losing weight rather than gaining more weight to it's 3400lbs dry weight. and I was originally thinking of the t3/t04e turbo anyways, but was not sure about the spool up... have has others post about turbos they have that only give boost above 4k rpms. and for my accord that only gives me 2500rpms of boosted drive, which means about 3-5 seconds of time between shifts.

[duplox]

if you get a properly sized A/R housing for your intake and exhaust, you will have no spool up problems.... all t3/t04 turbos are not the same, the housings can be changed around to give you whatever a/r you want.

[DeleriousZ]

so what rpm are you suggesting the turbo would be spooled at if you got the right size then duplox?

[killah_xft]

3500 would be a nice RPM to be spooled at, but would it hold boost after 6000RPMS? car only has a 65000rpm rev limit.

[DeleriousZ]

errr uhh... i think you got one too many 0's there..

[killah_xft]

I wish it had a 65000 rpm limit.... that'd be better than an indy car (19,000rpms).. yeah 6500 RPM limit on my accord.. my new R/C engine goes at about 42,000 rpms...