Quote:
Originally posted by TurboType-R
well I know for a fact that on a factory engine it will blow between 8-12 psi off of a turbo if it is not built...I had one....I am telling you that if you want to be safe then you will need to build it up at least some...like I said before not all of everything I have is necessary...but the engine needs to be able to handle it or it isn't going to last very long...maybe 40,000 miles or so....fuel is needed and for the most part that is really what you really really need...everything else is just really really expensive to do later like cam gears and pullies..I have well over 400 HP, but I built mine to last...you can do what you want, but I am telling what has been the best thing for making car's work the longest
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Actually a properly tuned engine won't blow w/ about 8 PSI, you'll want at least a thicker head gasket for more boost than that, at 12 PSI you'll want at lest a block gaurd and pistons, rods, don't forget new bearings and bushings for your bottom end. No where did you state a Standalone ECU system such as the Hondata which would be essential to a 400hp engine..........Also do you have golden eagle of Darton sleeves? One would thinkg your cylinder walls would fail at 400hp.
you built yours to last? How about you paid someone to build it, and why would you buy an ITR engine to turbo? Yes it has better cams and pistons, more HP and a nice P&P. But pistons are out the window since you want lower compression and not the higher compression of the ITR engine, also you'll prolly end up retarding your timing so those ITR cams aren't going to help all that much. Also for the cost of the ITR engine over the LS or the CRV engine it's not worth it. If I were to shell out all that money for a motor to turbo I would select the CRV engine since it's larger, and has lower compression. If I'm not mistaken it has thicker cylinder walls which would be good.