1/20 MFH Ferrari 312B1 - Clay Regazzoni - 1970 Italian GP

[Il dottore]

Wauw, just read this tread. Some people can make modelling look so easy. Amazing detail you`re putting in this buid. This is modelling with a capital M.

[edi956]

Hi guys,
I think you are all right...so I have to wait for a lot of replays...

...but, as Allan knows (I hope), I don't post wips for "nice words" only but rather for helping other modelers, thanks to my research (a day I'll post the pics of my archive ).

He (Allan) was right saying I posted the same wip in two forums but it was for two reasons: first, they are the most followed forums all over the world (I seem); second, in the same forums I noted that other modelers who were making the 312B1 were going wrong, not in modeling but on fidelities to the real car. So I quickly posted the references to avoid (or correct) such mistakes.

I think this is a great community of modelers (not a competition), where people could show their results hoping to be helped when (or if) needed.

Cheers.
Edgardo

[Lee Yoder]

Originally Posted by edi956

Dear auw12, I seem you are the only one who appreciates my work

Definitely NOT true! Your work is very detailed and your explanations are thorough. Looks great so far!

Later,
Lee

[raulrubio]

Hi to all in my first post in this forum.
Hi Edi956. Congrats for your model and thank you very much for all your detailed explanations. I´m thinking in purchase a MFH kit like yours and I´d like to know if you can show a couple of pics with the "other side" of the rivets. I´d really like to see how you finish the rivets in the ailerons or in the main body, in example.
Thanks!!!!!!!!!
Raúl

[edi956]

Many thanks to all for encouraging words!

Before proceeding with this wip a welcome to Raul from Madrid.
Here some pics of rivets.

These are of the main chassis.
You can see the "dark side fo the moon": i didn't cut them since the body doesn't touch them:


Otherwise after glueing, I cut the rivet, sending them untill the rivet himself becames part of the piece.

For example, here the body part which covers the engine, these resin rivets were all sanded inside to allow the attachment of the white metal part under it:


Hoping to well answered to your question.
Ed

[edi956]

Now it's time for the Ferrari engine: the 312 "boxer".

It's important underline that Hiro instructions say to paint engine with aluminium, whereas with 312B Ferrari began to pain their engine Magnesium Gold, like the gearbox.

Here three pics of the parts glued only:





First coat of TAM X-31 Titanium Gold:


First coat of TAM smoke:



Second coat of TAM Smoke + satin red for the inserts for spurk plugs:




Now an original pic of the engine is needed (1970 German GP):


You can see the color of the engine, that of the parts for cylinders (Gun metal + Aluminium), red for the insert of spark plugs, bolt/nut black or gun metal, and so on.

Here the engine with all the ancillaries parts glued + a final wash with semigloss black (much diluited):

[Greg23]

Looks great! Excellent research. I spent way too much time looking at the pictures.

[ianc911]

I love the effect of the Tamiya smoke as applied to the engine. How did you apply it? Pin wash?

ianc

[raulrubio]

Grazie Mille, edi.
Your answer is perfect and very helpful for me. I like the way you work in the models.
Thanks again and I´ll look your news updates.

Raúl

[edi956]

4 ianc: for mechanical parts I always use wet brush, leaving air-brush or spray when surface has to be smooth. Remember the techniques of the time for metal fusion: the pieces were very rough!

4 raul: on the next days I'll post the wip of the spoilers and there you can see the "dark side of the moon" of a surface which has to be smooth.


Before putting in place the whole engine with the main body, I have to show you two original pics of the engine.

This is the engine mounted on the B1 prototype, which Ferrari tried from middle of 1969:


Take a look at the cylinders: the 3 at the rear were longer than the 3 at the front of the engine.


Well, on 1970 the scheme changed:


All the cylinders were different from eachothers: the shortest at the front, the longest at the rear of the engine.

Hiro didn't take care for this particular and made a mistake.
Unfortunately all the cylinders are visible even the kit will be finished.
I think to resolve that when the upper arm of the rear suspension will be in place, since I seem easier to calculate the different high of each cylinder:

[edi956]

The whole engine has been attached to the main body:


Even if there is a very little gap between the two parts, I seem the car looks well.


The sticker "PROVA MO XX" which was on the left side of all Ferraris (F1 & Prototype) of the time, changed every GP and every driver.
I did not researched the number XX for all the B1 of 1970; anyway kit contains three numbers only (31, 36 and 53). Here some of them:

1970 Monza #2 Ickx MO 53
1970 Monza #4 Regazzoni MO 31
1970 Monza #6 Giunti MO 36
1970 Mont Tremblant #18 Ickx MO 31

For my kit the choice is:




Two words on the attachment of the upper arm of the rear suspension.
During 1970 Ferrari used two kinds of it.

The most used (here in Spain):


and the "light" version (here in Canada):


The last had three holes whereas the usual one had no holes but bolt/nut were visible.

At Monza the "usual" one was used.
Since that of the kit was naked, I made a hole in wich I put the hexagonal bolt by Scale Hardware, which I left unpainted:


On the upper side I glued a resin nut by Calibre35, which I painted gloss black like the attachment itself:


Here the complete attachment:

[auw12]

Very thorough, detailed. What a textbook of building this kit!

[Greg23]

This week's issue of Autoweek magazine has an ad for the Lauda Dutch/Spanish race winning 312B3 - chassis #015. The company selling it is: tillackco.com

It's a later model but they might have some useful information? Ferrari factory restoration.

They have some fairly good suspension pics.

[edi956]

Hi Greg, many thanks for the news but, please, check the address since it doesn't work.

Another little step towards the completion.

Here the rear roll-bar.
In front that of the kit; on the background mine.
Rather then sand to make "rounded" a Hiro white metal piece, I usually prefere to make another one using a tube, which is more right:



Then I cut out all the attachments, making holes where the new roll-bar could pass through:



Here the rear roll-bar mounted on the chassis frame (it is not yet oriented rearword):


One of the green arrows indicates the chassis frame which has to be painted semigloss black instead of aluminium how show Hiro's instructions.

[raulrubio]

edi, this is the right Greg23´s link

http://tillackco.com/sales/Ferrari%2...0B3/index.html

I hope now this work for you