suspension making noise after strut replacement

[12Ounce]

Originally Posted by old89lsc

I replaced my struts with Monroe quick struts last fall. Boy did those things squeak like crazy when they were new. They squeaked over bumps and they squeaked when turning the steering wheel. They definitely sounded more like old shocks than my old shocks did. After use, they did quiet down. Overall, though, I am not impressed.

I, also, am not so impressed with the Monroe product. Does anyone offer an opinion on the Gabriel brand? ...other brands?

[scubacat]

I tried KYB and monroe. There's a lot of negativity toward Gabriel on various Internet forums.

I have learned that only OEM are actually built to the manufacturer's specs, both for longevity and HOW they work for stability control. After my 3rd swap, I gave up and went back to OEM. Same for the back shocks. What really bugs me is that the motorcraft weren't that much more expensive, and came with new hardware, too. (nuts, bolts, bump stop and boot). You do have to swap over the spring, but it's such a huge improvement in performance. It's been over a year and still working great.

Others seem to like the quick struts, but in my experience, 6 months or so later the van is bouncing around as if they're not even there. I'd be interested to hear from someone whos had them on over a year.

[scubacat]

Note: for motorcraft struts, Ford calls them "shock absorbers", so when you look for them on rockauto or wherever, they're lumped in with the "Shocks" category. I wonder how many people miss that and think they're not available.

[Stealthee]

While not a Windstar I put Monroe quick struts on my 07 Grand Prix and have zero complaints a year later.

[12Ounce]

DISCOVERY OF OLD ANNOYING NOISE SOURCE

Mind you, I can't be very proud for finding it...it took so long. It's been with me for a very long while I worked all around the solution. I've recently replaced the Monroe Quik-Struts, steering rack, links and bushings, engine and tranny supports, etc, etc. This work wasn't devoted to the noise, it was just needed on my old (450K miles) 1999. But as I added more and more new parts, stiffening everything as I went, the noise went from being "barely noticeable" to "annoying"!

So it became time to do some serious searching: I had the wife move the steering wheel back and forth, a small angle ... with wheels on dry pavement and engine idling. Tranny in P, and brakes fully on ... I peered underneath with a powerful penlight looking for looseness in the various twisting connections. It was easy to find: the spot welds connecting the sway bar bracket to the sub-frame had broken free. The bracket was doing a dance against the sub-frame on the driver's side.

Now to do some welding....

[phil-l]

Good find!

Can you post some pics of exactly how the joint failed? My '00 is still just under 200K miles - but I worry about things like this happening to my Windstar, and want to check potential trouble spots.

[scubacat]

Originally Posted by 12Ounce

DISCOVERY OF OLD ANNOYING NOISE SOURCE

Mind you, I can't be very proud for finding it...it took so long. It's been with me for a very long while I worked all around the solution. I've recently replaced the Monroe Quik-Struts, steering rack, links and bushings, engine and tranny supports, etc, etc. This work wasn't devoted to the noise, it was just needed on my old (450K miles) 1999. But as I added more and more new parts, stiffening everything as I went, the noise went from being "barely noticeable" to "annoying"!

So it became time to do some serious searching: I had the wife move the steering wheel back and forth, a small angle ... with wheels on dry pavement and engine idling. Tranny in P, and brakes fully on ... I peered underneath with a powerful penlight looking for looseness in the various twisting connections. It was easy to find: the spot welds connecting the sway bar bracket to the sub-frame had broken free. The bracket was doing a dance against the sub-frame on the driver's side.

Now to do some welding....

Nice. Do you mean part the U-clamp bolts to? That's crazy.

I'm about to have a shop do the steering rack for me next week. These things were a lot easier in the south, but now in the rust belt, everything gets rust-welded together and you need a torch for every other fastener it seems. I literally could not break the jam nut free on the tie rod end last week! I had a wrench and beat it with a sledge hammer and it didn't even budge! Crazy.

[12Ounce]

Yep, the part that the U-clamp bolts too. There is no rust whatsoever involved in this instance. (You are welcome to move down, if you wish ... though I love Chicago also.)

Comparing the welds on this broken sub-frame to a newer replacement ... the welds are awfully few and small. On the newer sub-frame the welds are complete in length and are very heavy. Makes me wonder about the more important welds on the old part.

[12Ounce]

Welding complete. CLUNKING/THUMPING GONE! Steering and handling more precise now. My ride is back!

[scubacat]

Originally Posted by 12Ounce

Yep, the part that the U-clamp bolts too. There is no rust whatsoever involved in this instance. (You are welcome to move down, if you wish ... though I love Chicago also.)

Comparing the welds on this broken sub-frame to a newer replacement ... the welds are awfully few and small. On the newer sub-frame the welds are complete in length and are very heavy. Makes me wonder about the more important welds on the old part.

Originally Posted by 12Ounce

Welding complete. CLUNKING/THUMPING GONE! Steering and handling more precise now. My ride is back!

Congrats! Nice work. I lived in Atlanta for 20 years (am a GT alum) but left a few years ago. Had to sell my house in Peachtree Corners. I still am in town every few months or so.

Our 02 is still going strong. A shop rebuilt the transmission for $1750. Only took 3 attempts but it's been driving beautifully for months now. The new rear axle has quieted things down in the back substantially, too.