How to get a 'GLOSS VARNISH'?

[onejdmcivic1984]

This is my second thread on the forum and although I have been doing model kits for years (not every single day but a fair bit of time when it becomes available) I have not fully understood how to get a shiny finish on the models.

I primer the body as normal (after a little sanding session) and then spray the colour that I would want the car. Let it dry for a week or so and then lightly sand again. I use Tamiya Gloss Varnish and spray once - from about 30cm distance - then leave to dry for 30mins to an hour. Do it a few more times but the finish still looks Satin and not Glossy - whats going on?

[bradfordian]

If the paint underneath isnt gloss,flat paint + gloss clear will = semi gloss.also spray cans or premixed gloss isn't quite the same as 2k,2 part can be sprayed on in a thicker layer and it smooths out good and shines like glass,premixed seems to be different story.also would think premix will need several coats then micro meshing to get rid of orange peel the polishing.

[onejdmcivic1984]

I heard a lot about 2K - I generally do use spray cans which are premixed but can you tell me more about this 2K stuff?

[MPWR]

Originally Posted by onejdmcivic1984

Do it a few more times but the finish still looks Satin and not Glossy - whats going on?

That is a very normal phenomenon when spraying. It is because the varnish/lacquer/paint is partially drying out in the spray stream before it hits the surface it is being applied to. It results in a slightly microscopically rough surface. Not to worry, it is very easily dealt with.

After you have applied several layers of clearcoat and given it a week to harden, you simply polish the surface with some soft cotton flannel cloth and a polishing compound. McGuire's Scratch X from an auto store is a great option. Another is Tamiya rubbing compound.

[onejdmcivic1984]

I have a Tamiya Skyline 2000GT Street Custom and plan on using TS-17 (Gloss Aluminium) and then TS-13 (Gloss Clear) so after Ive applied those I should wait a week or so then polish it making the semi gloss finish into a gloss finish?

I have cotton fibre cloths and Meguiars Scratch X incidentally

[klinad]

In regards of spray cans, I recommend gunze Mr color's B513 spray clear coat. tamiya's OK but some say it's not as good as Mr color's. When applying the coat, spray at distance of 10cm, move slowly (but not too slow, otherwise color will be running), to give it a fairly thick and wet coat. Anyway, shiny effect is made by polishing, cause lacquer will shrink while drying.

[MPWR]

Originally Posted by onejdmcivic1984

so after Ive applied those I should wait a week or so then polish it making the semi gloss finish into a gloss finish?

That's the idea.

Obviously the clearcoat needs to be thick enough that you will not polish though it. I usually apply 6-8 coats of clear total before i give it the week to outgas.

You have likely heard legend and lore of how TS13 can destroy paint and decals that it is sprayed over. Take this seriously. If sprayed heavy and wet, TS13 will make TS17 do all kinds of strange and nasty things. It all works great if you apply it lightly and slowly. Put it on in light to moderate mist coats, and then wait an hour before you put on the next mist coat.

None of these mist coats will make the finish look properly glossy as they are sprayed or drying. But after all is done and you have polished the last layer, everything is clear and shiny.

[John18d]

One - 30cm is too far away from the subject to spray from the can - the clear is drying before it gets to the subject - especially if the temperature is warm or hot.

MPWR gave some great advice about polishing if you do not use a 2K clear.

Also 2K clear is just automotive urethane clear with a catalyzer that hardens the urethane - if you use a 2K clear do a search on this forum for threads about it - it is easy to use, and gives great results, but you must wear protection (mask)and have excellent ventilation.

Hope this helps -
John

[Marianitem]

Far from being an expert, I just share my experience. I used to use Rust Oleum clear laquer from the can, a few mist coats to seal the layer, then 2-3 wet coats. It looks wet when applied but then it shrinks while evaporation.
Then I started using automotive Dupont DX4000 2K clear thru airbrush in the same application manner and when dry it looks smoothier than the rattle can. But either way I still don´t like the look of it. It still looks like shiny plastic.

So my way still is the clear procedure + polishing process. I try to get a glass smooth finish with the clear, then wet sand with 2500, then polishing with Menzerna compounds 1000, 2500 and 4000, then wax for cleaning purposes. This way gave me the best result so far.
Still crappy cellphone pics. Looks way better live. There's absolutely no distortion on reflection.

[John18d]

Originally Posted by bradfordian

If the paint underneath isnt gloss,flat paint + gloss clear will = semi gloss.also spray cans or premixed gloss isn't quite the same as 2k,2 part can be sprayed on in a thicker layer and it smooths out good and shines like glass,premixed seems to be different story.also would think premix will need several coats then micro meshing to get rid of orange peel the polishing.

This is not necessarily true - if you use for example a basecoat/clearcoat system like "Zero" paints for instance - the basecoat will dry a "dull" finish which is normal and then the 2K clear adds the gloss finish and gives "depth" to the finish.

Also, most times people try to polish 2K they put little scratches in it and it loses the "transparency" of the finish and when one looks close, the finish looks hazy. This is usually because of incomplete polishing process.

John

[willimo]

I agree with others, you can get a very good result with Tamiya clear, and Gunze Mr Clear is really good too. Like MPWR said, sometimes you have to polish the clear once it cures nice and hard. John18d is right too, you're probably spraying from a bit too far away. It's really hard to convey in words how to apply paint correctly, so I always post this link when I see this question:

http://www.tamiya.com/english/scale/beginner2/2.htm

I had been building for some years before I saw this and two things in that little video jumped out at me as a surprise. 1. How close he holds the can to the model and 2. How fast he moved the can past the model. This gives you a great visual, and having seen this, I improved my paint quite a lot. A couple of other things worth repeating - start with light coats and be careful with the Tamiya paint. It CAN eat decals. Gunze Mr Clear is supposed to be better, and I feel like it is though I don't have near as much experience with it. I feel like you can get a great finish with spray cans, but it almost takes more practice than an airbrush and sometimes more work.

Also, don't worry about spraying clear over flat paints, it does make the finish glossy if you do it well and polish it! I do it all the time. Good luck, and share some builds (unless you have already and I just missed them, in which case, keep sharing!)

[tonioseven]

Two-part automotive urethane clear. It gives a wonderful shine though if too much is applied, the results can appear to be unrealistic and syrupy. IF you choose to go this route, PLEASE utilize safety equipment such as a really effective respirator AND protective gloves!!

[nascar49]

Tonio, what 2k product do you use ?

[tonioseven]

http://www.amazon.com/Restoration-Sh...tomotive+clear


Restoration automotive clear. I just started using it recently.