Best clear coat?

[DHKG]

This 2 years I started using Mr Hobby's Super Clear UV cut, much better then Tamiya

[MaRiO FDZ]

Does Tamiya. tS-13 cover OK over decals??

[MPWR]

Yes

-as long as you apply it properly.

Tamiya clear lacquer, like any clear lacquer, will dissolve whatever it is sprayed over if you put it on in wet, heavy coats. You don't want wet solvent sitting on your paint/decal job.

I use exclusively Tamiya and similar lacquers (my favorite is PPG, but it is not easy to get). I usually end up with five sessions of clearcoat when I'm done clearing a body, sprayed on in one or two light mist coats at a time. I leave an hour or two between sessions, and it's fine to leave it overnight or for several days also. I've never had trouble with clearcoat dissolving paint or decals this way.

But if you want something you can spray wet and heavy and be done with, choose another medium.

[SmokeyR67]

Originally Posted by ekha

All my models coated with 2K. I think this is best clear coat.

Unfortunately for those outside Europe it's no longer an option due to the inability to ship it.

[John18d]

Originally Posted by SmokeyR67

Unfortunately for those outside Europe it's no longer an option due to the inability to ship it.

Smokey - 2K is 2K they have Urethane 2K clear in every country that has automobiles - Try asking at an auto paint repair shop for small amounts of the Urethane clear and then the Catalyzer "Hardener" and the Reducer "thinner"

Hope this helps
John

[MaRiO FDZ]

Originally Posted by MPWR

Yes

-as long as you apply it properly.

Tamiya clear lacquer, like any clear lacquer, will dissolve whatever it is sprayed over if you put it on in wet, heavy coats. You don't want wet solvent sitting on your paint/decal job.

I use exclusively Tamiya and similar lacquers (my favorite is PPG, but it is not easy to get). I usually end up with five sessions of clearcoat when I'm done clearing a body, sprayed on in one or two light mist coats at a time. I leave an hour or two between sessions, and it's fine to leave it overnight or for several days also. I've never had trouble with clearcoat dissolving paint or decals this way.

But if you want something you can spray wet and heavy and be done with, choose another medium.

Thanks for that. I normaly archieve my gloss with 2-3 coats of tamiya paint. When the car is single color, there's no problem. But When I painted a 94 Williams I realized the masked color dulls, so I sprayed future. Problem was that white was Slightly off and in a doomed build, it cracked. For my next project I (93 McLaren) used decals, but there's gotta be a better way.

This post nails what I was looking for. i already bought 2 cans, see how it works. Thanks again

[Some_Kid]

Testors one coat is the best in my opinion. It dries very hard and isn't as hot as TS or Duplicolor. Also does well through the airbrush.

I do tend to get more orange peel with Testors but that's where compound comes in.

2k is also really good but also takes more work in my opinion. If you're using an acrylic base coat. 2k is your best bet as a clear coat. Just my 2 cents.

[John18d]

Originally Posted by Some_Kid

Testors one coat is the best in my opinion. It dries very hard and isn't as hot as TS or Duplicolor. Also does well through the airbrush.

I do tend to get more orange peel with Testors but that's where compound comes in.

2k is also really good but also takes more work in my opinion. If you're using an acrylic base coat. 2k is your best bet as a clear coat. Just my 2 cents.

Kid - I've never tried Testors "one coat" Not sure what type of clear it is (acrylic-enamel-lacquer-etc) - but I've never had to spend time with compound and polishing when I use 2K.

When 2K is applied properly and let to sit and cure it comes out glass smooth
I've written many responses to the correct application of 2K in this forum and I have seen many responses by Steve Nobel on the topic of 2K - who, if you have seen his Suzuki Hayabusa, has beautiful 2K application on it.

John

[MPWR]

Originally Posted by MaRiO FDZ

But When I painted a 94 Williams I realized the masked color dulls, so I sprayed future.

Masking tape shouldn't be dulling paint under it.

To prevent it, leave the first color to outgas for a couple of days before you apply any tape to it. What likely happened is that the paint was still outgassing solvent when the tape was applied. With its evaporation route blocked, the solvent then didn't have anywhere to go so it resoftened the paint. The softened paint then took on the texture of the adhesive on the back of the tape.

Also, try (if at all possible) to minimize the amount of time that masking tape is applied to the paint. Apply the tape just before your first paint session, and after your done with the second color (and have given it an hour or two to harden), promptly remove the tape. Try to leave the tape on for a matter of hours, instead of multiple days or weeks.

Some tapes have more aggressive adhesives than others. I've had good experiences with 3M house painting tape and of course Tamiya tape- but I don't leave either in place any longer than I have to.

This post nails what I was looking for. i already bought 2 cans, see how it works. Thanks again

Happy to help.

Lacquer is a medium that rewards patience. Take your time with it and don't rush it.

The best way to apply TS is to decant it, add a bunch of Tamiya's lacquer thinner, and then spray it out of a decent gravity fed airbrush at a low working pressure. But if that's not practical for you-

-The second best way to spray it is from warmed cans. Leave the spray can in a container of hot water for 5 or 10 minutes before you apply it. Be careful to avoid getting the spray nozzle and the top of the can wet. Warming the can this way makes the paint behave better out of the can. It's easier to get nice even mist coats this way.

Mist coats will often leave a bit of a hazy surface when they dry. You can sand this down a bit in between coats (make sure to let the paint sit for an hour or two before you sand it), using very fine sandpaper. 1200, 1500, or 2000 can be gotten in the painting departments of auto parts stores. Be slow and gentile, better to sand too little than too much. When the last, final layer has been sprayed, do not sand it. Let the clearcoat harden for a week or so, and then just polish out that haze with a rubbing compound and some cotton flannel.

[Some_Kid]

Originally Posted by John18d

Kid - I've never tried Testors "one coat" Not sure what type of clear it is (acrylic-enamel-lacquer-etc) - but I've never had to spend time with compound and polishing when I use 2K.

When 2K is applied properly and let to sit and cure it comes out glass smooth
I've written many responses to the correct application of 2K in this forum and I have seen many responses by Steve Nobel on the topic of 2K - who, if you have seen his Suzuki Hayabusa, has beautiful 2K application on it.

John

I know very well that 2k is by far the strongest and most durable clear coat. But for practical purposes for modellers everywhere I think Testors One Coat gets the job done very well. Also no risk if you forget to clean out your airbrush.

Orange peel with 2k comes down to thinning ratios, just like most paints. I've used it before and I do like it a lot. However I do find that lacquer clears such as Testors or TS-13 conform to the body and surface details better and ultimately have a thinner appearance. Delivering a more realistic finish. It just comes down to ease of use for me. It's also not as dangerous as 2k.

You can deliver an everlasting finish with 2k. I do not doubt that. But the only time I'd consider using it is if my base coat is not lacquer.

Also if you tend to make mistakes or get dust in your paint. Lacquer is more forgiving and easier to fix. Just my opinion.

[John18d]

Kid - you make some good points about 2K and Lacquers - I use both - TS13 - TS79 - the TS "matt" clears and then 2K when appropriate -
I agree with you that without the correct ventilation and mask - 2K should NOT be used
my point was, if you want a really glossy finish, then 2K cannot be beat
2K is a "clear plastic" urethane finish that does not need the time invested to polish - in fact 2K shouldn't need any polishing unless, as you stated, there is a flaw in the finish.
Lacquers are easier to fix flaws, because they are a "thinner" layer of clear, and do not harden as much as a 2K clear would
I spent many years painting restored cars and my race bikes in the 80's and 90's with PPG's Deltron system (DAU-DBU-DBC) paints and Delthane (2K) clears
I loved that stuff as it produced excellent results with little effort

John

[MaRiO FDZ]

Originally Posted by MPWR

Masking tape shouldn't be dulling paint under it.

Happy to help.

Lacquer is a medium that rewards patience. Take your time with it and don't rush it.

The best way to apply TS is to decant it, add a bunch of Tamiya's lacquer thinner, and then spray it out of a decent gravity fed airbrush at a low working pressure. But if that's not practical for you-

-The second best way to spray it is from warmed cans. Leave the spray can in a container of hot water for 5 or 10 minutes before you apply it. Be careful to avoid getting the spray nozzle and the top of the can wet. Warming the can this way makes the paint behave better out of the can. It's easier to get nice even mist coats this way.

Mist coats will often leave a bit of a hazy surface when they dry. You can sand this down a bit in between coats (make sure to let the paint sit for an hour or two before you sand it), using very fine sandpaper. 1200, 1500, or 2000 can be gotten in the painting departments of auto parts stores. Be slow and gentile, better to sand too little than too much. When the last, final layer has been sprayed, do not sand it. Let the clearcoat harden for a week or so, and then just polish out that haze with a rubbing compound and some cotton flannel.

Thanks again. I alwaysre-heat and dip my cans for paint sessions. I still gota do some tests see how the coat (probably just one layer) will act on the decals. I MAY DECANT buT. I'm leaning towards the single heated layer.

Thanks again

Take care

[nascar49]

Originally Posted by John18d

Kid - I've never tried Testors "one coat" Not sure what type of clear it is (acrylic-enamel-lacquer-etc) - but I've never had to spend time with compound and polishing when I use 2K.

When 2K is applied properly and let to sit and cure it comes out glass smooth
I've written many responses to the correct application of 2K in this forum and I have seen many responses by Steve Nobel on the topic of 2K - who, if you have seen his Suzuki Hayabusa, has beautiful 2K application on it.

John

Its lacquer based

[chato de shamrock]

I only spray clear through spray can and am still hesitant to use it any other way even though now i have an airbrush and been painting with it more then I have cans or brushes. If Mr. Hobby is available I'll stock up on cans and use that. If shipments are backed up for whatever reason I'll either use Testors One Coat Lacquer or Tamiya. Testors is my preference between the two. I do have mixed feelings about Tamiya only because of the number of comments posted on here about it damaging decals. Although, i've never had problems with either brand mentioned on my comment and decals. I always spray two to three mist coats and let each coat dry at least half hour before I apply a following coat. Afterwards I'll lay it on thicker. I have yet to damage any decals even with Tamiya cans.

[cjsbosox]

I switched to 2K after I noticed Tamiya TS clear, or any other laquer clear I tried, lose sheen after a while. I will never go back