P0014 - Cam Phaser/VVT Actuator?

[Ol'Jim]

My son's mother has a 2004 Trail Blazer EXT. 4.2 I-6. Vehicle is 800 miles away, so I can't do much from here, at least until I get home in 2 weeks. Check Engine Light came on, she said it has been running a bit rough. I told her to go to AutoZone and have the trouble codes pulled. It only flagged the P0014. Additional comments say:
ECM has detected the camshaft phase angle has exceeded it's tolerance value.
Probable causes:
1. Loose Cam or Crank sensor.
2. Excessive Timing Chain Free Play.
3. Blocked oil passage in the cam actuator assy or engine.
4. Incorrect oil quality or viscosity.

I can rule out # 4, it has Valvoline synthetic 5/30 in it. Been using that for several years. It is not quite due for a change, but I plan on changing it when I get there. Vehicle has been well-maintained, has about 120K miles on it.

I was advised the Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Actuator Solenoid assy probably needs to be replaced. In searching the AF forums, that seems to be the most likely culprit. I will check the cam & crank sensors first, to make sure they are not loose, connections clean, etc.
I've heard that the Power Steering Pump will need to be rotated out of the way to gain adequate clearance to remove the actuator, but other than that, the job is fairly simple. Some have said part is only available from GM, (and I would prefer putting a GM part in there, rather than a Chinese knock-off). Would this be a normally-stocked item at the dealer parts counter, or special order? I will only be home for 3 days, so I need to make sure the part will be available before I get there. Just wondering if there are any "gotcha's" or other components I may need to replace while doing the job, or any special tools? How is that assembly retained - by a bolt, clamp, clip, etc? Do I need to order a gasket for it as well? Supposedly the debris screens can come apart in that assy, which can cause the failure. How does one go about cleaning any of that screen debris out of the engine while the unit is removed? (Or does it stay in the old part that is being replaced)?

Also, she wants to make sure it will be ok to drive the vehicle for about 10 days, without causing any damage? (She has a 10-15 mile commute each way, no highway driving).

Thanks in advance for any advice you can provide.

[maxwedge]

Jim, this is usually a stock item but better line one up ahead of time, the solenoid is very easy to access/replace, basic metric tools, comes with the seal. The actuator is another story. It can be driven as is, some performance and emissions issues only

[Ol'Jim]

Got the part ordered from the Chevy store down there in TX. Surprisingly, GM part is $58.58. Replacements of unknown origin at Autozone & O'Reilly are about $65. Seems like OEM parts have become more competitive in pricing over the past year or 2. Used to be about 25% higher to buy a part at the dealer. Glad to see they want more of that business.

[Ol'Jim]

As a follow-up - I did replace the VVT Actuator/Cam Position "solenoid" assy a few weeks ago, and changed the oil & filter. She complained that it is still idling rough, with a bit of hesitation when cold. It seemed fine to me, the idle was a tad rough before replacing the actuator, and did seem smoother afterward. But I never drove it "cold". Was back there last week, and I did drive it cold. The idle doesn't seem any more rough to me than any other inline 6. But it did sound different than I remember it. Almost like the exhaust sounded a bit louder than normal. (Not from the tailpipe, and not like a blown muffler). Almost like when a vehicle has the ignition timing sharply retarded. Like a deep groaning or rumble within the exhaust system itself, under the hood. Just when you are moderately accelerating from a stop. No CEL/SES lights, scanned for codes, nothing. Any ideas? Is there anything that needs to be done to have the ECM "learn" the new part I installed?
As always - Thanks in advance, for any advice you can provide.

[maxwedge]

Tough from here to see what the exhaust tone denotes, hit the mufflers with a rubber hammer see if the baffles are broken. If you disconnected the battery there is a relearn time frame.

[Schurkey]

The Trailblazer six-popper SHOULD be so smooth that it's hard to know if the engine is running at idle--unless you watch the tachometer.

You feel the engine run...there's something wrong.