Please tell me its something simple

[12Ounce]

BTW, the Ford remanufactured tranny came with all new electrics inside (I looked). I figure it included all the upgrades known to be needed. It was even full of fresh fluid and included a new torque converter. Cost about $2000, exchange ... but that was "back then".

[TheBackyardDIYer]

Since reading your original post, I have been reading about rebuilds and such...I'm not sure what most of that stuff you are saying means. I'm sure it does feel nice to start up a fresh engine and drive with a new transmission. The problem will be convincing my wife to let go of $3000! But before I even get to that point I supposed I'll do the simple fixes at hand and try and find someone that can read transmission codes. May just take it to the Ford dealership in the next town. Thanks for the info!

Oh and using your threaded rod idea, did you need a car lift to get the van up high enough? Is that how it works, or can you jack it up enough to get the engine out. Once we get into engine and transmission removal, we are going far beyond my knowledge...

[12Ounce]

I did have the front end of the car a foot or so off the ground. I removed/reinstalled the cylinder heads in place. The front wheels and struts were removed before the sub-frame was dropped. Then there was plenty of room to drag the whole thing, complete with axles and hubs, out from under the car ... to the right ... atop a couple of wooden 4x4's.
.
I took the short block away from the tranny first. Wrestling the tranny out and back in was the worst ... I was working alone. That thing is a beast!

[12Ounce]

I used one floor jack and several jack stands. I also had a short "barrel" jack.

[TheBackyardDIYer]

I bet that was a job single handed. I got a couple of jacks and jack stands, but I don't think I have the space in my little shop for that. However, I did run it by my wife that we might could do what you have mentioned (light overhaul and reman. transmission--if that's the problem), and she is already looking for another van...She doesn't think it is worth it to fix, so.......

At this point I suppose I'll try and get the transmission codes read and go from there...Thanks again for all your input

[TheBackyardDIYer]

OK, I ordered the Dorman valve cover repair kit today so hopefully it will be here next week. I had another question that I wanted to ask so I can try and have everything ready for the job...

I have been reading on here, and I know wiswind's post says that the proper plug is Double Platinum. Now, is there a big difference in brands of plugs? AutoZone has Autolite, Bosch, AC Delco, NGK (which I don't really want to pay $14/plug), and Champion. Does it make a difference as to which one I pick, or what are you guys recommendations? I read somewhere in another forum, that someone said make sure to get a plug with a heat range of 5...the only one that has a heat range (that is listed...only NGK and AC Delco list ) that high is of course the NGK...

And I've also read that there are discrepancies in the plug gap...0.044 and 0.054 I think are what I read. Anyone know for sure which is the correct gap?

Thanks in advance

[phil-l]

I've had good results with AutoLite double platinum plugs. They're reasonably priced ($4-5 each) and available at several popular auto part retailers. It is my understanding that AutoLite manufactures Motorcraft spark plugs, so I believe they're a quality plug.

I would use the plug part number recommended (APP105 for my van; APP765 was listed as an alternate). I didn't pay extra for the AutoLite Iridium plugs.

Windstar plug gap is printed on a sticker under the hood (just in front of the engine, on my '00). Apparently, Ford tweaked the plug gap depending on some engine variables, because every Windstar service manual I've seen says "See underhood sticker" for plug gap. IIRC (I just replaced the plugs in my van), the gap for my '00 Windstar 3.8 is 0.052"-0.056". The old plugs in my van were also AutoLite double-plat. They exhibited typical wear - but I checked the gap on a couple of them, and they were still within the 0.052"-0.056" range, so I'm pleased with how they've worked over time.

Warning: These plugs aren't pre-gapped. Be very careful when gapping the plug to avoid damage, particularly to the little platinum contact on the ground electrode. Out-of-the-box, my new plugs were slightly under the gap I needed, so I had to open them up several thousandths.

[TheBackyardDIYer]

Thanks for the quick reply. I'll check for the sticker today. I'll try the Autolites and see how they go...They are running a rebate right now as well...$2/plug which brings them down to the $2.50/plug range...not bad!

[wiswind]

Make SURE to get double platinum....with the platinum enhancement on the center electrode AND the ground tab.
Platinum on the ground tab is what makes them "double platinum" as FORD intended and it is critical for even wear of the plugs between the front and rear bank of cylinders.
On one side, the center electrode wears faster, and on the other side, the ground tab wears faster.
This is because the polarity of the spark is positive on 1 bank of cylinders and negative on the other bank of cylinders.

I am mentioning this so that you do NOT get the multi-pronged plugs that do not seem to do well in our windstar application.

[TheBackyardDIYer]

Originally Posted by wiswind

Make SURE to get double platinum....with the platinum enhancement on the center electrode AND the ground tab.

10-4

Originally Posted by wiswind

I am mentioning this so that you do NOT get the multi-pronged plugs that do not seem to do well in our windstar application.

The plugs phil-l mention are single prong, double platinum, so I'll try 'em out.

[TheBackyardDIYer]

OK...I finally got all my parts in...I think. I got the Isolator bolt repair kit, or Valve cover repair kit (Dorman)...whatever it is. I figured while I'm that far and seeing as these vans have problems with the lower intake manifold gasket, I went ahead and got those too (Dorman--I saw a lot of you guys use Felpro, but I had already ordered the Dorman). I got new plugs (Autolite Double Platinum) and wires (Motorcraft). I got a new thermostat (Motorcraft). I have 18 quarts of transmission fluid (Mobil One Synthetic) and a filter (Motorcraft). New oil (Mobil One 5w-20 synthetic high mileage) and oil filter (Motorcraft). And I got a test kit from Blackstone to send off and see what my oil looks like...Now, a few questions...

I also bought those little IMRC bushings and when I went out and looked at my van to see if the original ones were still there (of course they weren't) I found one rod (the one on the front of the engine) lying loose and the one on the back side is completely missing...what do I do about that?

That's all I can think of at the moment...Thanks in advance for the help

UPDATE:
After much research, I think I found all the answers...