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#1
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1997 Chev. S10
I recently installed a clutch and pressure plate on my 1997 Chev. S10. Now I can't get the clutch to release enough to get it in gear. Sometime the clutch will release about one half inch from the bottom, but I cannot get the 5 speed shifter to go in first gear. Can anyone help?
Many thanks, Ron |
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#2
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Re: 1997 Chev. S10
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#3
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Re: 1997 Chev. S10
How do I tell what type of clutch this is and also the slave cylinder?
Thanks for your reply. Ron |
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#4
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Re: 1997 Chev. S10
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Type in your year model and engine size. Search slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder. Look at the parts as you pulled the transmission look at the parts. You will be able to determine if you saw the parts. They looked very close to Ford Ranger's unit. If your going to do it yourself purchase the prebled unit as they are very diffuclt to bleed. You could go to a parts store and look at a unit if unsure from the pictures. From the picture I would say you will have to drop or slide back the transmission to install the unit. |
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#5
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Re: 1997 Chev. S10
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Or how far down before you feel it get solid? Usually clutch release problems are slay cylinder has air in it and needs bleeding. Have you tried bleeding it? Was the slay cylinder replaced with clutch plate? What was the problem with old clutch?
__________________
Remember proper testing gives us the answer to many problems. MT |
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Re: 1997 Chev. S10
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#7
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Re: 1997 Chev. S10
[quote=rhandwor;7098998]I was hoping he would reply back that he drained it when he replaced the clutch. At least he could refill with brake fluid and bleed it and be good to go.[/
How is the best way to bleed the cylinder. Someone advised that it was difficult to bleed. Thanks for your reply. Ron |
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#8
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Re: 1997 Chev. S10
I installed another engine and wanted to replace the clutch and pressure plate as it had lot's of miles on it.
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#9
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Re: 1997 Chev. S10
[quote=daviejj;7099018]
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I had a friend who operated a body shop and he filled up the master cylinder on a fleet of S-10 he had a contract with a pest control company. He filled the master cylinder and left the bleed screw open. About 4 hrs. later it would start dripping and at this point he closed this screw and refilled the master cylinder. He said it took him 4hrs. I never tried it but I noticed flat pans under a truck on jack stands and one started dripping one of his men closed the screw and a short while later another man closed another one. I never tried this but if by your self you can try this. You only have one bleed screw. |
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#10
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Re: 1997 Chev. S10
Many thanks for the info. I shall try this...Have a great day.
Ron |
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#11
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Re: 1997 Chev. S10
No tryin to be a smartass but I hope that disc isnt in backwards.
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#12
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Re: 1997 Chev. S10
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Ron |
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#13
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Re: 1997 Chev. S10
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Search item 150907892536 I don't think your pumping fast enough. I work alone and use a vacuum bleeder any more. I used to use a pump oil can only used for brake fluid hold the diameter of the hose over the hole and pump and had someone shut off the bleed screw when brake fluid came out. I'm retired at this time and mostly do my own work. Try 1/2 to 1 hr depending on how fast you pump. You can try a gravity bleed lay a clean rag over the master cylinder after its filled. Allow up to 4 hrs. put a clean pan under an open bleeder. The slave maybe bad what was the problem before changing the clutch. |
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#14
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Re: 1997 Chev. S10
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Reason for new clutch. I replaced the engine and decided to replace the clutch and p. plate, no slave cylinder. After replacing the engine, I had no oil pressure. Had to pull engine and put in new oil pump. Clutch was working ok before that. I tried pumping fast a few days ago, but only for about 3 minutes. Could the slave cylinder just go bad? |
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Re: 1997 Chev. S10
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