2001 lincoln LS with no heat

[Geesls]

Hello all,

I'm new to the group and looking for some help. I have an LS with the 3.9 and am having trouble with the bleed procedure. I recently changed the degus bottle and thermostat and now have no heat. During the bleed procedure I am not getting any flow (sometimes minimal) from the bleeder. I have done this in the past and have always been successful. So far I have flushed the heater core and rad, changed the degus bottle and stat.

During the first attempt it did get warm but then went cold. What's odd is the heater core lines are getting hot but no heat in the car. The warmest it has seen is 90 degrees but then went cold again.

If any one could help it would be greatly appreciated.

Thx

[82Stang]

A couple things here. To know it's bled, lift the car or get the front where the bleeder is, at the highest point, then bleed it. Then run the car with heat on high hot until the t-stat opens. Then top off.

Also, if both heater core lines are hot and it blows hot temporarily, it might be a heater control door issue. Either vacuum or electric, that won't let the door open to allow the hot coolant to heat the car interior. Good luck.

[Geesls]

Thanks for the response. It's odd because sometimes the hoses get hot and then go cool. When they do I am getting heat in the car but once I start driving it cools down.

[82Stang]

Originally Posted by Geesls

Thanks for the response. It's odd because sometimes the hoses get hot and then go cool. When they do I am getting heat in the car but once I start driving it cools down.

3 things that come to mind...
1) If this vehicle has a heat control valve, that might be suspect.
2) Air in the system.
3) Thermostat faulty.
4) Vacuum leak on heater control door lines allowing door to function intermittently.

[joegr]

Originally Posted by 82Stang

A couple things here. To know it's bled, lift the car or get the front where the bleeder is, at the highest point, then bleed it. ...

The heater air bleed is at the base of the windshield. Lifting the front of the car will make it not bleed correctly. The car needs to be a level as possible or be slightly nose down.

Originally Posted by 82Stang

3 things that come to mind...
1) If this vehicle has a heat control valve, that might be suspect.
2) Air in the system.
3) Thermostat faulty.
4) Vacuum leak on heater control door lines allowing door to function intermittently.

1. It does have a heater valve, a dual one.
4. The LS climate control does not use vacuum at all. All doors and valves are moved electrically.


To the OP. You have to follow the factory bleed procedure to the letter to correctly bleed the system. You will have to drain some coolant out and try it again.

Cooling System Draining, Filling and Bleeding

Draining

WARNING: Never remove the pressure relief cap while the engine is operating or when the cooling system is hot. Failure to follow these instructions can result in damage to the cooling system or engine or personal injury. To avoid having scalding hot coolant or steam blow out of the degas bottle when removing the pressure relief cap, wait until the engine has cooled, then wrap a thick cloth around the pressure relief cap and turn it slowly. Step back while the pressure is released from the cooling system. When you are sure all the pressure has been released, (still with a cloth) turn and remove the pressure relief cap.

CAUTION: The coolant must be recovered in a suitable, clean container for reuse. If the coolant is contaminated it must be recycled or disposed of correctly.

CAUTION: Care must be taken to ensure the accessory drive belt does not become contaminated with engine coolant.

1. Release the pressure in the cooling system by slowly turning the pressure relief cap one half turn counterclockwise. When the pressure is released, remove the pressure relief cap.

2. NOTE: Approximately four liters will drain from the radiator.

Place a suitable container below the radiator draincock. If equipped, disconnect the coolant return hose at the oil cooler.

· Close the radiator draincock when finished.

Filling—Bleeding

On 3.9L engines

1. Remove the engine fill cap.

On 3.0L engines

2. Open the engine air bleed.

On all engines

3. Open the heater air bleed.

4. Add coolant to the degas bottle allowing the system to equalize until no more coolant can be added.

On 3.0L engines

5. Close the engine air bleed when coolant begins to escape.

On all engines

6. Replace the degas bottle cap.

On 3.9L engines

CAUTION: Care must be taken to ensure the accessory drive belt does not become contaminated with engine coolant.

7. Add as much coolant as possible to the engine fill. The heater air bleed will remain open.

8. Replace the engine fill cap.

On all engines

9. NOTE: The heater air bleed remains open.

Start the engine and turn the heater to MAX position.

10. Close the heater air bleed when a steady stream of coolant comes from it, during engine idle.

11. Allow the engine to idle for five minutes, add coolant to the degas bottle as needed to maintain the cold fill MAX mark.

12. Reopen the heater air bleed to release any entrapped air and close again.

On 3.9L engines

13. Maintain engine speed of 2,000 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater.

14. Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater.

On 3.0L engines

15. Maintain engine speed of 1,500 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater.

16. Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater.

On all engines

17. Set the heater temperature setting to 24° C (75° F) and allow the vehicle to idle for two minutes.

18. Shut the engine off and allow to cool.

19. After the engine has cooled, add coolant to the degas bottle to bring the level to the cold fill MAX mark.

[82Stang]

"The heater air bleed is at the base of the windshield. Lifting the front of the car will make it not bleed correctly."

--> "or get the front where the bleeder is, at the highest point."

"The LS climate control does not use vacuum at all. All doors and valves are moved electrically."

--> "Either vacuum or electric..."

[joegr]

So is your point that generic advise shouldn't be corrected/updated with specific advise?

[82Stang]

Originally Posted by joegr

So is your point that generic advise shouldn't be corrected/updated with specific advise?

Not at all. It was generic advice, which would cover most vehicles. However I did state that the highest point should be the bleeding spot and heat doors would be mostly controlled by vacuum or electric.

Thanks for the specifics.