98 Transmission shift solenoid location

[Cressidaadr]

I am getting a single code - P0753 that comes on now and the van will not shit into 4th gear. It re-appears after clearing the check engine codes in 5 seconds. That seems to be the "A" or 1-2 shift soleniods (or wiring).

Does anyone know if you can get to the shift solenoids after dropping the transmission oil pan or do you have to pull off the side housing cover - that seems like a much more difficult job?

Of course, I will replace both of the solenoids if I can get to them. I will do it myself if I can get to them after dropping the pan but don't know if I will be able if that side cover has to come off.

Does anyone know the location and if I should be able to get that drivers side cover off if that is where they are?

I think the 1998 Venture's tranny is the 4T60-E.

I have a 1000+ mile road trip coming up soon so I got to get this fixed shortly. I guess I am glad this didn't happen in the middle of the trip though.

[Cressidaadr]

Oh no. It is looking like one has to remove the side cover and that seems like a lot of steps / work?

Here is what I found below. Do you really have to remove all of this! My knees are getting weak already but I need to get this done.

1. Install the engine support fixture.
2. Remove the engine mount struts.
3. Raise and support the vehicle.
4. Remove the left front wheel.
5. Remove the left engine splash shield.
6. Remove the stabilizer shaft link from the lower control arms.
7. Remove the left tie rod end from the steering knuckle.
8. Disconnect the wheel speed sensor wiring harness connector.
9. Remove the left lower ball joint from the left steering knuckle.
10. Disconnect the left drive axle from the transaxle.
11. Secure the drive axle to the steering knuckle/strut.
12. Disconnect the intermediate shaft from the steering gear. CAUTION: Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear and/or damage to the intermediate shaft. This damage may cause loss of steering control which could result in personal injury.
13. Disconnect the three-way catalytic converter pipe to the right (rear) exhaust manifold.
14. Support the right side of the frame with a utility stand.
15. Support the left side of the frame with utility stand.
16. Remove the transaxle mount bracket.
17. Remove the transaxle mount.
18. Loosen the engine mount lower nuts.
19. Loosen the right side frame to body bolts.
20. Remove the left side frame to body bolts.

If anyone has removed that tranny side pan and can add some clarity about what needs to come off and any problem areas to watch for please respond.

[Tech II]

Yes, it is a major job, to get that side cover off to access the valve body....

However, you should make sure the circuit to the solenoid is not the problem, first, or you will be doing this all for nothing....

[Cressidaadr]

Originally Posted by Tech II

Yes, it is a major job, to get that side cover off to access the valve body....

However, you should make sure the circuit to the solenoid is not the problem, first, or you will be doing this all for nothing....

You're right. I am taking it to a transmission shop Monday morning and let them test it and take care of it.

Do you know if I will need to get a new front end alignment again after they remove the steering knuckle and other parts. Or, when they install those two large bolts back on at the bottom of the strut is that going to get it back to the alignment where it was?

I need to get this all done before the big road trip on Thursday morning so trying to think ahead for scheduling if I will need an alignment after the transmission shop is done.

[Cressidaadr]

For a follow up, it was indeed the 1-2 shift solenoid.

The shop replaced all 4 while they had the side cover off. The sway bar end link broke off so they installed a new set of end links as well.

This was a very expensive repair to replace a $15 solenoid. I now have a new high pitched squeeching sound coming from the brake or wheel area that was not there previously. My gas mileage seems to have dropped 10-15% as well so I need to pull the wheel off and find out what is going on with that and may start a new thread on that issue.

It might be as simple as the wear indicator on the inner brake pad but it was not making the noise until I got the van back from the tranny shop. I had to listen to the noise for the 1,500 mile road trip and worry that it might be a bearing going bad. I always hate to get a vehicle out of a shop right before a big road trip since you don't have time to make sure it is working again properly.

My front end alignment seems to not have changed but I would think after disconnecting the tie rod end that it might still need to be checked - any ideas on that ?

[Tech II]

Anytime you adjust/replace a component of the front end, it can throw the alignment off.....

As for the noise, check to see if the dust shield is making contact with the rotor... it could have been bent while they were working on that side.....

[Cressidaadr]

Thanks for the reply Tech II.

I pulled the wheel this morning and indeed found that when they pushed the ABS electrical connector back on it bent the metal bracket on the wheel bearing assembly causing it to be in contact with the backside of the rotor. I was able to locate it pretty easily since by now it was scoring the rotor a bit. I guess when I looked at it before the trip there was no marking on the rotor yet so I didn't see this contact area.

I would like to think that a professional would have noticed this during their re-assembly and road check but in this case they didn't. I'm not too happy about that but glad to have corrected this noise problem.

Fwiw, I got 22.75 mpg on this road trip which seemed a bit low to me but maybe that is what the corn whiskey does when you put it in the tank.

Next up, I am going to replace an outer tie rod end that I noted has some play in it and then take it in for an alignment.