Those lean codes again

[Tinovolpe]

thanks for that. I'm going to check out the laternator this weekend.

[Tinovolpe]

Well I figure maybe I should swap out the alternator so I went online to see what's involved and of course par for the course with ford everything I read says removing the alternator on a Duratec engine in a Taurus is about the biggest PIA going. Either you have to remove the crank pulley, drop the subframe, or remove tie rods and sway bar link. Geez, why didn't ford just encase the thing in a ginat cube of concrete and call it a day. Saw one You Tube video of a guy claiming he can get it out just by rotating it but I wonder because all the other forums are screaming bloody murder. If I'm going to kill myself changing this thing (it does have a coating of oil on it from a leaking crankshaft seal, another job to do!) and paying 100 bucks for the part I need some confidence that this will actually fix the issue. Otherwise this may be where I draw the line and get rid of this lemon.

[Tinovolpe]

Sorry guys I posted a reply but don't see it anywhere so who knows where I sent it. Here it is again. I apologize if this is a repeat.

I looked up changing the alternator since for a 100 bucks It is worth it. Well everything I read on line says doing this on a Taurus duratec is the worlds biggest PIA. Par for the coourse for Ford to remove it you eather have to remove the crank pulley, drop the subframe, or remove the tie rods and sway bar link. Take your pick. Saw one guy on You tube who seems to show removing it without doing any of that but I'm wary since all the other forums are screaming about it. If I attempt this I want to be really sure this will fix the issue. Maybe this is the straw that breaks the camels back and time to get rid of this lemon.

[65comet]

Yeah, when my '98 Sable Duratec needed a new alternator, it was one of the few things I paid someone else to do. At the time I needed the car the next day, I was out of vacation days to call off work, and I didn't want to spend an all nighter changing it. I know they can be tested while still in the car, but I don't think the part stores can do it.

[Tinovolpe]

This morning was a bad one. Usually I'll get a ramdom misfire while driving, the CEL will flash for about a minute with the car running really rough and then it clears up and that's it. This morning. After driving for 10 minutes I was sitting at a light and all of a sudden it starts idling real rough and then died. Started right back up and as I drove off the CEL started blinking for about a mile then it smoothed out and the light went off. But at every light when I can to a stop it idled fine for about 5-10 seconds then all of a sudden the idle goes rough and it goes to die. I threw it into neutral and rev'ed it until the light turned green then took off. Did this for 3 stop lights. Pulled into the parking lot and put it into park and sat there and it ran fine. What gives?
FYI I have a leaking crankshaft pulley seal which I am meaning to replace but there is a coating of oil around the components down there, o2 sensor, alternator and whatever else is near there. Can this be causing this? The only code I get is that stupid #3 cylinder misfire but don't see how that can make an engine die