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#1
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2007 Hyundai Sonata Check Engine Flashing and Car Shaking At Times
Ok, so I have a 2007 Hyundai Sonata GLS w/82,000 miles on it. I was driving and the check engine light came on and began blinking on and off, and when I would stop the car at a light, it would shake, almost like a throbbing. Have taken it to the repair shop four times now, and first, second, and third time they said it was a spark plus misfire, and they told me they replaced the spark plug. The fourth time they said it was a bad coil, but the car continues to have the shaking problem. Sometimes the check engine light will shut off, and the car will be working absolutely fine again, but a day later the problem resurfaces.
Any thoughts on what the actual problem could be? I am going into the shop again tomorrow, but they are as unsure as I am and just keep replacing spark plugs and the coil. Thanks! |
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#2
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Re: 2007 Hyundai Sonata Check Engine Flashing and Car Shaking At Times
Quote:
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John Nance Parts Manager Terry Lee Hyundai 17665 Terry Lee Crossing Noblesville, IN 46060 |
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#3
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Re: 2007 Hyundai Sonata Check Engine Flashing and Car Shaking At Times
If it happens again, get the CEL codes read and post up the error codes.
Then someone may be able to help more.
__________________
84 4Runner - ARBed 5.29s F&R, 4.7 & 2.28 t-cases, Chevys, AP x-over, BudBuilt x-member, 2" drv trn lift, 36" TSLs, 30 spline Longs 80 something p/u - Buick 231 V6/TH-350 trans, Holley 4 bbl, Weiand intake, dual batts, dual tanks ... 89 4Runner - stock 2000 Isuzu Trooper + 2010 Sonata |
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#4
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Re: 2007 Hyundai Sonata Check Engine Flashing and Car Shaking At Times
My 2006 Sonota V6 3.3 suddenly paused & stopped accelerating. Even when flooring it no acceleration nor rpm increase (this is "limp home mode"). Got error code P0346 (Bank A Camshaft Position Sensor) and a few other codes indicating cylinders 2 and 4 misfiring). Btw, Bank A is Bank 2 (crazy, right!), affects Cylinders 2, 4, & 6. There are 2 cam sensors on the V6 3.3. Bank A or 2 is located on the front right of engine closest to radiator. Fairly easy to access and replace ($60to$100). But after replacing and leaving battery disconnected for 2 hours, car still won't start and I don't know why (battery still has plenty of juice). Does anyone know the next step?
Guys, please help. I'm clearly not a mechanic. I only posted what I've learned so far to hopefully help someone along the way. |
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