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#1
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Window frames on clear coated bodies
I clear-coat (Zero 2K) and compound (but not wax) my car bodies before I paint the window frames.
I tend to shoot Tamiya Enamal X18 (thinned with Tamiya Lacquer thinner) to paint the frames.. However I have problems with the paint rubbing off, as the clear coated surface leaves nothing for the X18 to get a hold onto. I had wondered about painting the frames BEFORE I clear coat, then masking and spraying the frames with semi-gloss or flat clear after the 2K clear coat... Do other people have this problem, and if so, what do you do. ? Is there anything I can do to the clear coat to make it a better surface for painting over, or do I just need to keep handling to a minimum once the frames are painted ? Regards David |
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#2
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Re: Window frames on clear coated bodies
I use waterbased Citadel color to paint black window trim, so no problem.
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#3
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Re: Window frames on clear coated bodies
I always paint my windowframes with enamel semigloss black or with zero paints semi gloss. That works for me. If I paint them with acrylic paint most of the times the paint doesn't stick well.
Kris.
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#4
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Re: Window frames on clear coated bodies
Quote:
Thanks for the suggestion. |
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#5
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Re: Window frames on clear coated bodies
Use the Zero black or Vallejo black, they both work well for me and neither rub off when handled..
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Steve Noble |
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#6
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Re: Window frames on clear coated bodies
Do you wash the body after using the cutting compound? If not I'd give it a wash with a soft cloth and little dishwashing detergent, the residue from the compound wont be helping the adhesion.
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#7
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Re: Window frames on clear coated bodies
If your paint wont stick because the clearcoat is too smooth...then you take some waterproof and rub the services you like your paint to stick too
(this is also the reason why we waterproof primer in the automotive industry!...so for your windowframes mask around them and rub them with some waterproof #1000/#1500 then paint them, and it will stick!!) |
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